MOUNTAINEERING ART.* ART has been defined in a general way
as " every regulated operation or dexterity by which organized beings pursue ends which they know beforehand." Tested by this definition modem mountaineering is most justly claimed by Mr. Raebum as an art. His book deals exclusively with the executive branch of the art. It is severely practical and written for use, not for entertainment. There are still many persons who believe that tho summit view is the object of a long ascent. if any such person roads beyond the first few pages, he will realize that the more ascent and descent of stoop slopes has become an exciting sport of a highly technical character, whose interest to many of its votaries is independent of the size or situation of the mountain on which the slopes occur. It is true that climbing consists in putting one foot continually before the other, but Buell a description ()envoys no idea of what it means to Mr. Raeburn. We might as well any batsmanship to Mr. C. B. Fry is just " putting the bat against the ball."
Tho book is written on the linos of the Badminton Volume on Mountaineering published in 1892 ; it might almost serve as a now edition of that work. But it is too much restricted to the purely technical side of the sport. There is no attempt to describe its aesthetic pleasures or to stimulate enthusiasm. The keenness of the reader is assumed ; and the author's aim is to give him the benefit of his very wide experience and know. lodge in dealing with the obstacles presented by the many different bonne and conditions of snow, ice, and rock. As an all-round mountaineer, a man likely to be a safe guide on almost. any climbable mountain in any country, Mr. Raebum has the highest credentials. He is no specialist ; ho has studied snow in Britain as carefully as in the Alps and Caucasus, and all kinds of rook
• mountaneying Art. By Steroid Itaeburn. London: T. Bieber Cada. L1C&I
have boon handled by him as a cragsman, a naturalist, and a geologist.
The chapter on equipment is thoroughly up to date. The advice given, especially in the all-important matter of boots, often differs from that of the exports of thirty or forty years ago ; but the difference is the result of the experiences of many climbers in the intervening years, and will bo endorsed generally by the present generation. The advice has not boon given in a hurry ; "almost every published work on climbing and moun- taineering, in English, and in the principal continental languages, has been consulted." The methods employed in overcoming the difficulties that confront a climber-on rock and snow in Britain are illustrated by descriptions of typical, semi-imaginary climbs. The rock ascent is in the hands of A, B, C, a very patient and sweet-tempered trio, and for the snow climb they are reinforced by the addition of D. The accounts road rather like a long proposition of Euclid ; they are full of sound reason- ing and of basic truths for the student to build on. Alpine climbing is dealt with in the same business-like manner. We renew our acquaintance with A, B, C, and find them in every way fitted to solve the longer problems.
Miss Ruth Raebum contributes a section "For the Lady Mountaineer." Tho page which contains a full.length portrait of a lady in complete climbing costume deserves, and will doubtless receive, full attention from her readers. A male critic may safely hazard the opinion that the hat is the weakest point in a very neat and sensible outfit. Whether rock.climbing of the type that satisfies the modem cragsman is "eminently suitable for women " is a point which only the results of the next few years can decide.
Nearly half the book is occupied by the section on " General Principles." Under this title, "Ethics and Rules of Moun- taineering," the use of ice-axe, crampons, and rope, food, drink, and health, and exploration, are discussed as an experienced mountaineer and a practical Scot might be expected to discuss them. The numerous illustrations have all bean chosen with regard to their Instructional rather than their pictorial value. Mr. Raeburn writes with conviction and refreshing candour. "No stimulants are necessary for Alpine climbing. Plain digestible food, sparingly partaken of, and water are sufficient." Even north of the Tweed some might well exclaim : "This is a hard saying !" The old warnings against eating snow are ridiculed. Mr. Raeburn himself has oaten many pounds of it. But he clearly has a digestion that encourages some recklessness in these matters. In the close atmosphere of an Alpine but he elects not to end his evening meal with tea or coffee ; " a bottle of red wine mulled with sugar is a more restful drink " I The importance of reducing to the minimum what the gnideless climber carries on his back is strongly urged, but men will always differ on the question of what is essontiaL It is hard to believe that the very neatly dressed gentleman shown on p. 73 per- forming a perfect standing glissade would agree that " time- wasting and useless Imick-knacks such as a razor should be left behind," or that "the less washing at high elevations the better."
The item in Mr. Rseburn's equipment that will excite most curiosity in climbing circles is his walking-stick. " I was showing a friend some sea-birds' breeding haunts on cliffs about 200 feet high. As ho wished a few guillemot's eggs I put a walking-stick into the turf, looped a rope over it, and prepared to descend. In fixing the rope I bent it sharply, when it at once broke half-way through." Till his follow-climbers have seen the stick and the turf they must be allowed to ascribe the destruction of the rope to somo agency more beneficent than damp storage
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