18 JUNE 1954, Page 26

OTHER RECENT BOOKS

IT is delicious to handle a book called Good Food from Italy. This particular book, written by an Italian ("he cooks for the family"), contains some equally delicious concoctions: zabaglione, eggplant Florentine, pizza and above all that basic tomato sauce that makes spaghetti the dish that I would like to be left on my desert island with. It is also a fairly irritating book for the house- wife in a hurry. Things have misleading (though no doubt Italianly-speaking correct) names; minestrone, or the nearest approach to it, is camouflaged as zuppa di famiglia and scampi (surely a better known word in England than gamberi) do not appear at all. There is also a lot of talk about what cheeses are correct with what pasta; and "the word pizza means pie so that pizza pie is like saying pie-pie" ; and "as a matter of fact, ice-cream goes back to Roman times . . . whether in the form of granite (grah-neet-eh)