SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
SIMON HOGGART
Now, pay attention. We have a lot of wines to get through and not much time, so if you don’t mind, I’ll crack on. All the wines come from the famous City firm of Corney & Barrow, and almost all are generously discounted. And there is the Brett-Smith Indulgence, which knocks off £6 per case if you buy two for delivery inside the M25, three cases outside. You will find many bargains here.
I have selected (and marked) two mixed cases, one for summer drinking, the other a luxury case for any time. But first, C&B’s marvellous house wines, perfect for parties and everyday quaffing. The white is zesty and lemony, the red warm and full. At the pitiful price of £55.20 you can bump up your order to qualify for the Indulgence.
Then there’s the wonderful C&B sparkling Blanc de Blancs2 (S) Adam BrettSmith has knocked off £1.64 per bottle. This is made in Burgundy, it’s fresh and bubbly and fruity and it’s the very quintessence of summer. Serve it at an outdoor party and amaze friends who won’t know how prudent your generosity actually is.
The Gatekeeper Chardonnay 20053 (S,L) from the Barossa Valley, Australia (£1.76 p.b. discount), is a rich, smooth wine, very gently oaked, purely to bring out the subtle flavour. Perfect with food, and very highly recommended.
A Chardonnay in a quite different style is Les Sétilles 20044 (L) (£2.05 off) from the famous house of Olivier Leflaive. Classic burgundy at a price you’d normally pay for a generic label.
I loved the Crossroads Gewurztraminer 20055 (S,L) (£1.47 off) from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. It’s packed with that unmistakable perfumed flavour, yet it is a fair bit drier than its Alsace rivals, and so might be more suited to the British palate. A truly gorgeous wine.
Château de Sours is probably the winery that kick-started Rosé’s new popularity. It’s made from Merlot so it offers the depth of good claret while pleasurably quenching your thirst. The latest vintage is the 20066 (S,L).
Now the reds: the Anjou Cabernet Sauvignon 20048 (S) from the tiny vineyard of Frédéric Mabileau is wondrous summer drinking: light and crisp, yet packed with soft fruit. You could serve it slightly chilled.
Another wine that would be just right after an hour in the fridge is a rare Alsace red, a Pinot Noir from old vines, grown by Théo Cattin. This 20049 (S) has been reduced by £1.64, and it has a terrific earthy undertone through which the powerful flavour of the grape seems to burst.
The Vavasour Pinot Noir 200410 (L) from Amazing that its maker, Glenn Thomas, can pack such density of flavour into this light and fragile grape. You’ll taste black fruits, such as cherries and blackcurrants, plus layers of spice. My notes include ‘creosote and tar’, but you can ignore such pretension. Sadly, supplies are rationed, so it’s only on offer in the mixed case.
Finally there is another generous £2.29 off the Château Corbin 199911 (L), a St Emilion Grand Cru, mature enough now to have come into its own — soft, mellow, cedary, with the richness of cigar smoke. Much better value than many more expensive clarets.
Delivery, as always, is free, and don’t forget the multi-case discount.
Previous page
