KING'S NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO THE SHORES OF THE

ARCTIC OCEAN.

MR. KING was the surgeon and naturalist to the expedition which was sent out under Captain BACK, to go in search of Captain Ross, and, as a second object, to survey the yet unexamined coast of the Arctic Sea. The reader of the Spectator for May 28th, may recollect that the first object was superseded by the return of Ross ; and that the second failed, after the descent of the Great Fish river, for the first time by Europeans, in consequence of the accumulation of ice in the sea at its mouth, and the lateness of the season : he may also remember, that the scientific discoveries made, were dry la their statements, and judiciously placed in an appendix, as well as that the popular characteristic of the work was endurance. Those who have studied Captain BACK'S Arctic- Land Expedition itself, are aware that it is divisible into three distinct parts,—the first consisting of the journey from Montreal to Fort Reliance, the winter station of the discoverers at the bead of the Great Slave Lake; during which the privations and hardships, although considerable, are what are continually encountered by the various persons in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company. The second part embraces hybernation in a log-hut, on cold, and short commons; and the third narrates the (HE:tittles and dangers attendant upon their over-land and over-ice journey to the banks of theGreat Fish River, and the perils of its descent. As, with very few exceptions, Mr. KING traversed the same ground as Captain BACK, and for the greater part of the time in his com- pany, it may seem that there was no necessity for the present publication : nor, perhaps, in strictness was there. At the same time, the subject is new enough to bear recurring to; and various circumstances combine to induce sufficient diversity between the narratives of the commander and the surgeon and naturalist.

In the first place, the pursuits of Mr. KING gave him a field of observation more extensive, various, and less easily exhausted, than the prospects of the country, or the hardships of adventure ; and of these he has judiciously availed himself, interspersing his narrative with popular notices of the characters and habits of the animals met with during the expedition. The ingenuas artes have also exerted their influence upon him; and though they may not have given him more of the humanitas than pertained to Captain BACK, they have produced a more speculative and philosophical east of mind ; which shows itself in his descriptions of the customs and condition of the Indian races, as well as in his estimate of their character. The close of the journey, too, was made under his direction ; his supe- rior having started for England by a quicker way, whilst during a part of the expedition Captain BACK went on in advance, leav- ing Mr. KING to follow with the personnel and materiel ; so that he had opportunities of seeing more of the manners and characters of the adventurers, and their life while at labour, than his chief. He has, moreover, judiciously profited by the previous publication, to atoid clashing with or imitating his precursor ; giving only a general impression of the more striking passages of the Arctic Land Expedition, unless it be in the ease of the dreadful suffer- ings of the Indians during the first winter.

It is a common complaint among the higher orders, and those who wish to appear to belong to them, that there is no finding a select spot. Every watering-place in England, or on the Euro- pean Continent, is crowded by the profanum vulgus ; the impu- dence of poachers, or the influence of wealth, penetrates every- where, and forestalls the rightful owner, or his friends, of sport and profit amongst the fern, nature- c; and even so far north as Norway, there is the risk of meeting one knows not who. But the Arctic regions of North America are still open to those who have courage, constitution, time, and money. In their brief sum- mer, the woods are teeming with foliage, and the earth with flowers; the waters swarm with fish of new and various species ; the air is sometimes almost darkened by flocks of birds ; and, es- pecially far north, animals are found of different kinds—the moose-deer, the musk-ox, and the rein-deer, to say nothing of bears—which afford excitement to the hunter and task his utmost powers. Nor does even the winter seem without its objects of in-. terest or active pursuits; neither is the cold itself, according to Mr. KING, so tremendous as the thermometer would lead one to fear, whilst it evidently braces for exertion.

As the severe weather was by this time over, and I had seen the thermometer on the 17th of January 102. 'below the freezing-point, had slept in an atmo- sphere of tie. below, "tinder the canopy of heaven," with a single blanket for a covering, and had had some experience in snow-shoe walking, I may he al- lowed to make a few remarks upon the intensity of cold in the inhospitable re. gions of the North, as they are termed. During a calm, whether the thermo- meter stood at 70. or 7° minus zero, was to the in seusatiou the same ; and although I have experienced a difference in temperature of SO0 from cold to heat, and rice versa, in the course of twenty-four hours, still its change was not sufficiently oppressive to put a stop to my usual avocations. I have been shooting grouse at every range of the thermometer' m fro the highest to the lowest pint, wearing the very same clothing as in England on a s llllll ner's day,— a fur cap, moccasins, and mittens excepted, instead of a hat, tanned leather shoes or boots, and kid gloves. Merely a cotton shirt was sufficient to protect my breast from the most intense cold that has ever been registered; and not- withstanding my waistcoats were made double-breasted, I never felt sufficiently cold to be under the necessity of buttoning them: neither flannel nor leather was worn by me in any way. It must be understood, however, that I am only speaking of the temperature during a calm, or when the atmosphere is but slightly in motion. The lowest descent of the thermometer would not preveut my making an excursion of pleasure ; but a higher temperature by 40", accom- panying a stiff breeze, would confine me to the house: the sensation of cold, as I have said before, depends so much more upon the ftnce of the wind than upon the state of the thermometer. Such euchatance may appear incredible to those persons who have read each ponderous quarto as it issued forth, fearful in aspect as in subject ; and it is no wonder. I was astonished at my. self, while spurting in a country alwavs portrayed as unfit either for man or beast; but, what was my astonishment, when, hopping before are from bough to bough, the lesser redpole caught my sight—the little bird that so frequently adorns, in England, the cottaget's room ! If so small a creature can find the climates of England and Great Slave Lake equally congenial to its constitution, surely man may exist there. A sudden transition from heat to cold produced cramps,—a fact well worthy the notice of those persons who are subject to that painful disease; for an extra blanket or two, arid a trusty thermometer to in- dicate when to put them on and pull them off, may save much excruciating pain

mad many restless nights. •

On the 16th, by following the track of the men, I reached their encampment between ten and eleven o'clock,—an estimated distance of twenty-three miles, when we commenced our return. Notwithstanding the wind was blowing fresh enough to drift the snow, the thermometer at the same time indicating a temperature of 30° below zero, we arrived at the saw-pit at four o'clock in the afternoon. The country was so billy and broken, that to attempt another trip under two days was impossible ; for which time the men were not provi- sioned. I started, therefore, for the fort, with one man, at six, in order to ob- tain a fresh supply ; where I arrived at half past nine ; having accomplished, since five o'clock in the morning, a computed distance of fifty-eight miles. I do not mention this as any thing extraordinary, but merely to show that much greater distances can be made in a cold climate than in a temperate one ; for less exertion by three- fourths, in England, has on more than one occasion completely tired me.

Here is a description of a Northern luxury.

THE ;entre FISH, •RID HOW TO CATCH THEM.

The coregonus albus, or white fish, is an inhabitant of all the interior lakes of America, anti celebrated for tire delicacy of its flavour. Several Indian tribes subsist upon it ; and it forms the principal food, at many of the fur-posts, for eight or nine months in the year. Although it is a rich, fat fish, instead of producing satiety, it becomes daily more agreeable to the palate ; so much so, that, though deprived of bread and vegetables, those who make use of it as daily food are never tired of it. The colour of the flesh is bluish white, changing when boiled to a pure white ; whence its appellation of white fish. When in season, it is loaded with fat, particularly between the shoulders, where it forms quite a hump ; the stomach is extremely thick, and considered a sweet morsel by the voyageurs. In October, the " attihawmeg," as it is called by the Crews, or the " poisson Liaise" of the Canadians, quits the lakes and enters the rivers to spawn. It has some resemblance to a herring ; and, like that fish, dies speedily when taken out of the water. Its usual weight is from two to three pounds, though sometimes it has been caught weighing seven or eight, The fish ate taken in winter in gill-nets, after an easy method : as many holes are nude in the ice with a chisel at a distance of ten or twelve feet from each other, as the length of the net may require ; when aline ispassed beneath them by means of a long pole, and readily conveyed from one hole to another by the assistance of a forked stick, until it arrives at the last. The net is then strung upon the line ; to either end of which a large stone is fixed, to keep it from ex- panding and rising from the bottom with every waft of the curreut, as it other. wise would do. In overhauling or searching a net, the two extreme holes only are opened ; when the line is veered away by one person, while the net is hauled from under time ice by another. its angling for fish in winter, no other process is required than that of cutting a round hole in the ice, from one to two feet in diameter, and letting down a baited hook, which should be kept in motion, not only for the purpose of preventing the water from freezing round about it, but the more readily to attract the attention of the fish.

Allusion has already been made to the author's inquiries into the habits, character, and customs of the Indians. here are a few of the results.

INDIAN THEOLOGY.

Od S01111, a Chipewyan, anti ienowned warrior in his youthful days, freely and cheerfully related to us the tradition current among his tribe with regard to the creation ; being in substance as follows. The Indian did not pretend to give an opinion in what way man got into the woad, but commenced by say- ing he made his first appearance during the summer months, when the berries were abundant on the eat th, upon whieh his subsistence entirely depended. As soon as the depth of winter set in, the depth of snow inconvenienced him to so great a degree, that, in accordance with the trite adage " necessity is the mo- ther of invention," he at once conceived the formation of the snow-shoe. After the lapse of a short time, the birchen frames were perfected ; but as he could not net them, for that was a woman's work, they remained unfinished in his lodge; from which circumstance, his labour was very much increased, and the chance of gaining a subsistence became every day more precarious. One day, on returning to his hut, a noise as if some one was working at the snow-shoe frames, attracted his notice; and upon a nearer approach, a wood-partridge flew from the opening at the top, which at that time he paid but little regard to. The succeeding day he sallied forth on another hoisting-excursion ; and having remained out until quite dark, his attention was suddenly drawn towards his hut by the appearance of volumes of smoke issuing from it. Returning home with all speed, he perceived a wood-partridge again make its escape; and en entering the tent, found his snow-shoes more than half netted, and carefully placed beyond the reach of a fire that was blazing inside. Suspecting the par- tridge had effected all this, though in what manner could not be divined, he determined to secure it if at all practicable ; and with this view, the roof of the tent was easefully closed prior to his departure on another hunting-trip which he took a few days afterwards. It occurred to him, that by returning earlier than usual, the bird might be taken by surprise: he therefore approached the door of the tent with the utmost caution, and was fortunate enough by that means to cut off the retreat of the partridge, which instantly became meta- morphosed into a young wife ; whence the world soon became peopled.

INDIAN VANITIES.

That vanity forms a part of the Indian character, we laid ample proof this winter' on taking some portraits with the camera.lucida. A young female hay- ing unfortunately lost the sight of one of her eves, had ingeniously formed a drop-curl, which effectually huh the blemish ; and when, by drawing her flow- ing hair on one side, that her face might be the more perfectly reflected on the paper, the defect was exposed to our view, she was so exceedingly mor- tified as for a long time to refuse sitting for lier portrait, and then persisted in covering that imperfection. Akaitelio, Ind an excrescence about the size of a pea upon his forehead, seemed amused in the highest degree as long as he thought its appearance on paper was intended as a caricature ; but finding it remained so, he placed his finger over the representation, observing, with a smiling countenance, in that way it was leizOo (good); but, withdrawing his finger, he said, in a contemptuous manner, natinalah (bad). Green-stocking, the Indian belle represented in Franklin's Narrative, remarked, on presenting herself before the instrument, that she was now old, and therefore unworthy of beingalrawn. The sketch, however, was no sooner finished than she appeared highly delighted, and asked whether we thought the great chief in England (meaning Sir John Franklin) would remember her ?

HOW TO FIND YOUR WAY OUT OF A WOOD.

In this perplexity, it was fortunate that I had elicited from the natives their

mode of penetrating the vast forests of their birth, which till now has been a source of astonishment to every sojourner in North America. The most scientific ob- server, when involved in an extensive and unknown wood, at a time when the situ is obscured, although he should he in possession of every mathematical in- strument he could wish, is totally unable to worm his way ; and soon getting bewildered and fatigued, falls a sacrifice either to cold or starvation. With what uniformity a lost man travels in circles, in place of making a direct course, was exemplified in two gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company but a short time ago. While their men were occupied in making a portage, they strolled into the woods, and after a time commenced their return. The period having elapsed that ought to have ended their walk, the cause was at once evi- dent; yet they continued on, until reaching a fallen tree rather more remarkable than the rest, one of the two expressed an opinion that he had passed it but a few moments before; but, from want of unanimity, no further notice was then taken of the circumstance. A third time they reached tile tree, yet not tho- roughly convinced of the fact; so they engraved a mark, and a few minutes more actually brought them to the very same spot again. Seating themselves on their old friend, they wisely fired off their guns; the report of which soon brought some of the party to their relief.

The Indian, however, is not exposed to such accidents ; for he has learned by experience, that that portion of every pine tree which points to the Northern horizon, has fewer branches than that part: which faces the opposite quarter, where, from exposure to the rays of the sun, germination is more productive. Under the terms of the rising and setting sun, the other principal points are known to the natives ; and they have doubtless terms for many of the interme- diate ones. Thus has Nature planted innumerable and never-failing com- passes to guide through a trackless and interminable forest

" Her sylvan tribes of children of the chem." Moreover, the inclination of the trees to the South are further guides ; and if 3 valley or any other spot should intervene where the sun has not exerted that influence, which is the case in more exposed situations, they are directed by the position of the fallen trees. Judging from their appearance of the period wirer , they were blown down, and tracing in their memory the direction whence the storm or hurricane then came, they are able to obtain tolerably correct bearings. To some persons this stretch of the mind may appear incredible ; but to those who are acquainted with Indian character, it will not be a matter of tbe least astonishment. It was by such means that I reached the fort, and relieved the minds of my friends from an anxiety which my prolonged absence bad occasioned. Mr. KING has deemed it necessary to apologize for the paucity of his .collections in natutal hisa-ry, on account of circumstances over which he Lad no control ; Captain BACK having at the outset forbidden the men to occupy themselves in the pursuit of speci- mens, alleging the delay that had ensued in former expeditions from this cause ; and when the Captain had departed, Mr. KING found himself alike fettered by the nature of his instructions and the responsibility they imposed. He also complains, that the Arctic Land Committee have kept back some of his papers and .specimens, in defiance of the agreement made with him ; and we suspect, that if he and his chief set their horses well together, Mr. KING did not approve of the route that was taken, or of the manner of pursuing it. At all events, which is more important, he does not now ; and, since Government refuse to aid him, he proposes to undertake the survey of the coast himself, if so small a sum as 10001. can be raised, of which a part is already subscribed. Captain BACK, as we have said, wintered at the Northern end of the Great Slave Lake; and thence travelled to the Great Fish River, in tile fidlowing summer. Mr. KING, on information pro- eured from the Indians, (which, it should be borne in mind, was all that the present expedition was based upon,) proposes toproceed at once to a tributarv of that river, and winter there; by which means, he will have a shorter land and lake journey, traversing as it were the string of a bow instead of the arc; and, what is 'more important, be ready to start at once on the breaking-up of winter, without losing time and fatiguing his men by a laborious land journey. He also intends to proceed differently; taking few instead of many fol- lowers; and navigating in a canoe such as the Indians and traders use, instead of a great sea-boat ; for the canoe is swifter, and in case of rapids, falls, or the contemplated land survey of the course, four men can carry it with ease, whilst the larger boats can scarcely be lifted by the men they bold. On reachieg the Arctic Ocean, Mr. KING proposes to make the survey of the coast, either by land or water, or both, as circumstances permit. That this plan is bold, will be readily admitted ; but it does not follow that it is rash. With care and prudence, dangers from man are not to be appre- hended ; numbers have no power over the rigour of the climate; and if the gross quantity of food and other necessaries that can be .carried is less, so is the number amongst which they are to be divided. HEARNE made his discoveries by plunging unattended ,amongst the Indians; MacKENzta placed himself and his few followers in a canoe such as Mr. KING proposes to use; and the early navigators, whose explorations later expeditions have sailed to confirm, or fall short of, were badly victualled, in comparative cockle-shells. For in these, as in other affairs, the material means and appliances are of tri%ial consequence compared with the quali- fications of the men who are to apply them. "Depend upon it, gentlemen," said Amin( COOPER, in one of his lectures, "those surgeons who are always constructing new instruments and altering old ones, are deficient here (touching Ws forehead). The skill to use them is of far more consequence than their shapes or varieties."