SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
High class for family drinking
Auberon Waugh
After the fiasco of the July offer (which in some cases took two months to complete) I hayed decreed that people buying wine which has run out should from now on have their cheques returned im- mediately, with no argy-bargy about offer- ing replacements. In the present offer, only No.6 — the Macon Vire — is likely to run out; 50 cases have been kept for us, but those wanting to order it with another wine might well be advised to write on separate cheques.
First, two cheapies for the run-up to the Christmas season. I am always nervous of cheap whites, but this blanc de blancs from the COtes de Gascogne', about 60 miles south of Bordeaux, struck me as excep- tionally clean, with a crisp, flowery fruit which makes it highly acceptable as an aperitif. It would make a wonderful party wine because it does not cloy or turn sour. Its aromatic Colombard taste is slightly unusual, but everyone found it delicious and so did I, although I would hesitate to serve it to a wine expert with any but the lightest meal. At £2.29 delivered it strikes me as a brilliant aperitif. Fitou, which is a small appellation con- trol& in the south of the Corbieres, pro- duces the best red wine in my own region of France. This2 is a thoroughly elegant example which I recommend to those who want an everyday drinking wine, being tired of the over-fruity Rhones, the listless Italians and the strangely chemical 'good
ordinary clarets'. At £2.39 delivered it is a cleaner, better, fuller wine than most of the Bordeaux Superieurs on offer. It is also 25p cheaper than the same wine from my local cash-and-carry. However, the label is ugly and nobody will suppose you are serving an expensive wine unless you re- bottle it. Most of us are too proud to do that but the wine itself is very high class for family drinking.
Those who like the crisp, gooseberry- leaf sauvignon taste of white Sancerre which the Parisians seem to adore will welcome the 1984 vintage, which is weight- ier than the 1983 with more acid to bring out the fruit. As Sancerre prices go, this3 is a good one at £4.17 for a fine, assertive wine from a good producer. It is better than any Pouilly Fume I have tasted recently; I have a theory that Sancerre is overtaking Pouilly in the fashion stakes. This is a serious wine for drinking with a serious meal, and those who prefer the
sauvignon to the chardonnay taste will take it very seriously indeed.
Next a fairly hefty young Burgundy4 which seems to show more class than one would expect from this appellation or the year. It has a good, heavy pinot smell and can be drunk now, although I would be tempted to keep it another couple of years.
I cannot rave about it at the price of £4.60 although I dare say I will be kicking myself for not having bought it in 18 months time. If I could have offered it at £3.86, like July's Coulanges-les-Vineuses, I would go wild, but it is still a good wine and several pounds cheaper than any commune Bur- gundies of equivalent quality. The trouble is it falls between the stools of family wine for everyday drinking and grand or exciting wine for guests, high holidays etc. But it comes in a pretty bottle and nobody need be ashamed to serve it to guests, unless he is very rich.
The Sancerre rouges is not all cheap at £4.80 and I really recommend it only as an enjoyable oddity for dilettantes like my- self who need to have a large variety of different tastes to hand. It is redder than usual — a beautiful light ruby colour — both richer and heavier than I remember. Although made from pure red pinot, it smells of raw meat and has a curious malty taste (my son suggested hops and yeast) which I enjoyed but others might not. It is not a serious wine, but unmistakably high class and unmistakeably redussi. It should be drunk slightly chilled and fairly soon. As I say, it is not cheap but I found it interesting and unusual, possibly ideal for certain moods.
Those who have read this far will be the really serious winos, and only they will learn about the last wine which is sensa- tional. Some may remember the 1982 Macon Vire from Bonhomme which I raved about last year — I have a few bottles left, and am still amazed by it. The 1983 is half as good again. It is a lovely wine, the essence of pure white chardonnay with enough acid and fruit to take it into the next century. This year I have tasted about a hundred white 1983 Burgundies from all the great communes. There was not a Puligny Montrachet which could hold up a candle to it. People I have served it to have simply gasped. At under £5 the bottle it is a gift, but unfortunately I was able to secure only 50 cases. I would take them all myself if I did not have a Wine Club to run. They will be sent out in order of letters opened, and unsuccessful applicants will have their cheques returned immediately. Please do not ask for special favours. If I had my way I would keep them all instead of the modest four cases I have put aside, but if anybody is less than delighted by this beautiful wine I will happily buy it back and drink it myself.
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