1 FEBRUARY 1992, Page 25

Meatballs

Sir: Why the surprise that testicles are eaten in Kenya and in Wyoming? (Letters, 18 January). Here in France, 20 or 30 years ago, they were often on menus under the euphemistic title `rognons blancs'. I remember seeing them as a speck:lite on a Burgundy menu listed as 'Les rognons blancs du chef.

Charles Pitt

34 Avenue de la Belle Gabrielle, 94130 Nogent-sur-Marne, France