SIMON HOGGART
1 t's our final Christmas offer this week, and we start with a tremendous treat. Amanda Skinner of John Armit Wines has knocked . £40 per half dozen off Pol Roger White Foil(1), one of the greatest of all nonvintage champagnes and the favourite of Winston Churchill. A year or so ago I visited Pol Roger's place in Epernay, and very impressive it is too. When the Germans were on their way, all the great vintages were hidden in one of the back cellars, which was then sealed up. Someone had the job of distressing the bricks to make them look ancient, so the invading Nazis would not realise there was anything behind them. He finished just in time. Amanda's offer means that you can get a half-dozen of White Foil for only £115, which is almost £6 per bottle less than the lowest price I have seen elsewhere, though of course I haven't checked every merchant or supermarket in the country. The deal is that you can buy a half-dozen at this extraordinary rate for each case you buy from the main offer. They say the test of a great champagne is that it tastes as good if not better when it's gone flat — say, overnight in the fridge. This one passes triumphantly. Arrnit's own NV champagne(2), with its stylish gold and silver label and its rounded, appley, lemony, biscuity taste, is also rated by Decanter magazine as one of the best you can buy, and at the reduced price of only £12.50 a bottle it's remarkable value as well. Amanda has come up with yet more bargains. There is £9 a case off the lovely Escape brand Chenin-Sauvignon Blanc 20040/, created exclusively for Armit by Mike Dubrovic, one of South Africa's most respected and adventurous winemakers. Spectator readers have bought large quantities of other bottles from his Mulderbosch winery, and with its fresh, crisp flavour this would be perfect for a party where you wished not to break the bank but have your friends praise your generosity on their way home. White Burgundy is a marvellous Christmas tipple, and I was stunned by this generic wine made by Francois Faiveley, from the exceptional 2002 vintage(4). For a mere £9 a bottle it has all the distinctive nutty, buttery and creamy qualities of famous Burgundies at twice the price. It's another example of the French catching up with the rest of the world; I doubt you would now find an Australian chardon nay quite as good for this modest sum. The last time we offered the Chateau Grand Villages, Bordeaux Superieur(5), you spent almost ten grand on acquiring supplies. The 1999 is a smashing, slightly smoky, fruity and well-rounded claret — miles bet ter than some of the thin and weedy stuff the Bordelais still sometimes try to pass off on us. Amanda has reduced it by £14 a case, bringing it in at a mere £7 a bottle. Now two quite sensational bargains. The Beaune les Avaux 1998(6) has been reduced by more than a third, making it cost £14 a bottle instead of the listed £21.50. This is a fine Pinot Noir and truly delicious drinking now, but I don't think it will last a great deal longer. Which is why it would be perfect for drinking in lavish quantities over the festive season. Excellent with the turkey, or with Boxing Day cold meats, or, frankly, at any time. Finally, there is a wondrous £64.60 per case off the Prom is 2002, from Ca'Marcancla in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany, home to some of the finest of all Italian red wines. At its listed £18.30 a bottle this is good value; at under £13 it's almost a miracle. The 55 per cent Merlot makes it soft and velvety; the 35 per cent Syrah gives it fruit and flesh and bounce. It is rich and even caramelly. You could drink it now with great pleasure, but if you want to lay it down, it will go on improving for another five years or so. Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a mixed sample case including all the wines except the Pol Roger.
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