SPECTA TOR WINE CLUB

All French and all high-class

Auberon Waugh

This offer, which averages £10.25 a bot- tle on the full mixed case, may seem to announce a reckless jump up-market. If so, it merely reflected the mood of the moment; but to accommodate those who are reluctant to adopt even this painless way of paying £15.95 for a bottle of Meur- sault(3) or £21 for a bottle of Pomerol(6), however dramatically reduced, I have arranged a second or lower case, contain- ing three each of the four cheaper wines. They average out at slightly over £6 the bottle delivered.

The offer also includes one of the best light quaffing reds I have ever discovered. The Ardeche(4), at a fraction under £4 the bottle, should keep a large number of peo- ple very happy for many months. Nothing colonial, all French, and all unmistakably high-class.

I first fell in love with the Marquise de Bairac's 1994 Chardonnay(1) at the end of April, and am happy to report that the 1995 is now galloping on its heels. For a vin de Pays d'Oc, it is an exceptionally well- mannered wine, with nothing overpowering about it and an excellent, quasi-burgundian finish. It won high praise from the panel, who wrote of its strong, rich and complex smells and delicious taste. At £5.25 I should judge it a perfect wine for those who can't or won't pay the price asked for white bur- gundy of a similar quality. Albert Mann's Gewitrztraminer 1994(2) belongs very much to the fuller, spicier Alsatian tradition. It has a tremendous amount of taste, rather flowery — one member of the panel found night-scented stock — with a sweetness on the nose which is not, luckily enough, entirely repro- duced on the palate. It has surprising length and provides an altogether delight- ful drinking experience, whether as an aperitif or with those peculiar dishes, like curry and smoked fish, for which gewurz- traminer is the best accompaniment.

Olivier Leflaive's 1994 Meursault Les Tillets costs £15.95, generously reduced by a pound from its list price, despite the fact that burgundy-fanciers lap up the limited quanti- ties produced at almost any price. Those who can ignore my own shrieks and groans at the price of white burgundy will find an excep- tionally deep, dry wine, elegant without being thin, with a complex and subtle range of tastes which are best appreciated if it is served only slightly chilled. Personally, I would open it about 16 hours before drink- ing. It comes from one of the best producers in one of the most famous vineyards of Meursault. Please don't laugh too loud when I say I have been assured it is a bargain.

Next, the wonder of the offer. Guil- laume's Les Quatre Vents, a vin de pays from the Coteaux de l'Ardeche, is a light red for drinking at any hour of the day or

night. It is faultless: clean on the palate, good for the health, at £3.99 the bottle kind on the pocket. At 12 per cent by volume it should be able to hold its flavour, which has absolutely nothing nasty in it, but I am just about to order my third and fourth cases, so it seems unlikely to be put to the test.

The Chateau de Musset 1993 from Mon- tagne St Emilion(5) at £6.99 enters more serious ground. Soot, smoke and gunpow- der were identified among the aftertastes, but it has a fruity merlot nose and good

balance in a strong wine which will stand up for years. There is some tannin, which requires a food accompaniment at this stage. The price of £6 has come down from £8.70 on the list. It tastes more expensive.

The 1989 Château Bourgneuf at £21 has come down from a list price of £23.50, but people may judge even the new price a lit- tle steep for an unclassified Pomerol iii what was admittedly a very good year. The colour and smell are both sensational. One could ruminate in those plummy depths for hours. On the palate, I thought it might be getting a little sleepy after my first tasting at the end of April, but its class is unmis- takable. Perhaps, for present consumption, you should decant it an hour before the meal, and sniff it throughout, but I would lay it down for a year or two and give the taste a second chance to catch up with the miraculous, beautiful smell.

Jennifer Paterson is away filming.

ORDER FORM SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

c/o Lay and Wheeler Limited 117 Gosbecks Road, Gosbecks Park, Colchester, Essex CO2 9JT Tel: (01206) 764446 Fax: (01206) 560002

White

Chardonnay 1995 Marquise de Bairac 12 Bots Price No. Value £63.00

Germ:Uzi-famines 1994, Albert Mann 12 Bots

£102.00

Meursault 1994 Les Tillers,

Oliver Leflaive 12 Bots

£191.40 Red

Les Quatre Vents, Ardeche

Jean Guillaume 12 Bots £47.88

Chateau de Mussel 1993

(Montagne-St Emilion) 12 Bats 1.83.88

Chdteau Bourgneuf 1989, Pomerol 12 Bots £252.00 Mixed

Mixed case, two of each 12 Bots £123.00

Lower case mired (three bottles

each of 1,2,4 and 5) 12 Bots £74.00 TOTAL

Please send wine to: NAME ADDRESS Own name & address, if different: NAME ADDRESS Prices include VAT and delivery on the British mainland: Payment should be made either by cheque, with the order, payable to Spectator Wine Club, or by Access/Visa, details of which may be telephoned or faxed. This offer, which is subject to availability, closes on 31 October 1996.

VISA/ACCESS NO SIGNATURE EXPIRY DATE