22 AUGUST 1987, Page 18

Crambe repetita

Sir: As a devoted reader of the Spectator, I look forward eagerly to Jennifer Paterson's food column. I do, however, think that her suggestion of serving cold meat, and pre- tending it is hot, is her most inspired tip to date and leads to interesting possibilities.

What answer would she give a difficult guest who insists that the meat is cold and would she recommend serving coley and pretending it is salmon?

I await Jennifer's advice in her next article.

Jill Simmons

24 Luttrell Avenue, Putney, London SW15