AN early trend for 1999 seems to be the development
of gourmet restaurants in top London hotels. It began a few years ago when Marco-Pierre White opened in a rather soulless basement at the Hyde Park Hotel and then moved to the more impos- ing surroundings of the Oak Room at the Meridien Hotel in Piccadilly, where he remains with three Michelin stars to his name. Then at the end of last year Pierre Koffmann removed his similarly starred Tante Claire restaurant in Royal Hospital Road to replace the restaurant in the Berkeley Hotel in Wilton Place. Mean- while, the Hyde Park Hotel changed hands from Granada to Mandarin Oriental and, among much continuing refurbishment, the new owners have revamped its main dining- room as The Park, offering haute cuisine from the British head chefs David Nicholls and Hywel Jones. Finally, I hear that Michelin two-starred Parisian chef Michel Rostang will arrive in a month or two to supervise a gastronomic remake of the hitherto undistinguished Terrace restau- rant at that same Meridien, Piccadilly, where White already wields his knives. Let battle commence!
The Hyde Park has always been one of London's stateliest hotels with some of the finest views, but its own restaurant, looking onto the park, has never previously offered distinguished cooking. Though the refur- bishment is as yet incomplete, this high- ceilinged room boasts one of the best views in London from its huge windows, with tables spaced so well apart that each is in an intimate pool of its own. So it was when the top advertising director Judith Frame, recently returned to the cut and thrust of business from the domesticity of childbirth, Joined me for lunch on a sunny January day when Hyde Park, with its runners, riders, nannies pushing prams, and the occasional military uniform, looked timeless save for the excrescence of modern lamp-posts. Such was our view as we studied David Nicholls's lunch menu at £19 for two cours- es and £22 for three. There is also a full carte at £32 for three courses, and a list of grills, roasts and simple dishes, sensibly no doubt intended for hotel residents not nec- essarily in search of gastronomy.
Sipping our Laurent Perrier champagne a mite overpriced at £9.75 a glass — we saw no harm whatever in the lunch menu with its four choices per course. To start, Judith ordered a salad of roast Bresse pigeon with Jerusalem artichokes and a pithivier and lentil dressing and I went for creamed lobster bisque with roast scallop, warm iceberg lettuce, crab and tomato. Both were successful: the pigeon was plump and pink, well accompanied by its tasty salad in which the lentils were a wel- come ingredient, and my lobster bisque, slightly frothed, had a commendably intense flavour despite its creaminess and, in its centre, a small lettuce parcel contain- ing the welcome accompaniment of scallop. Both were well conceived, impeccably done dishes. Next, Judith had a generous fillet of roast sea bass accompanied by a fine lob- ster brandade, with Swiss chard and beet- root vinaigrette, in many small cubes, which she found a little overpowering. I ate a well-hung, juicy roast pheasant with fon- dant potatoes, tasty creamed winter kale, salsify and lentils; straightforward cooking immaculately executed. Finally, Judith enjoyed an iced champagne pyramid — the champagne distinctly detectable through the ice — with filo pastry and tropical fruits; it tasted as attractive as it looked. So did my warm feuillete of winter berries with kirsch sabayon, which again arrived in a small tower — the pastry chef is clearly a verticalist — accompanied by a delicious creme-fraiche ice cream: what a flavour. With coffee at a very fair £2.50 came top- class petits fours, the chocolates outstand- ing, to complete a most enjoyable and charmingly served meal which, with half a bottle of good Sauvigny at £17.50, the champagne and service, cost an acceptable £98 for high standards in superb surround- ings. There were few lunchers; clearly, for the moment, The Park at the Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park, remains a relatively well-kept secret.
Nothing secret about Pierre Koffmann's moving Tante Claire to the Berkeley just before Christmas. Already a telephone reservation for lunch just after the holiday had drawn a steely command that I recall to confirm my reservation on the day, something I refused point blank to do. But, surprisingly perhaps, I found a table wait- ing for me when I arrived three days later. Judith once again joined me to appraise the merits of the relocation. There is a main room, slightly larger than the previous one, and a rather poky rear room into which I resisted being put. We found the decor less engaging than the Park's with ugly 'top hat' light fittings on the walls, an ornate central glass chandelier, green carpet and dark blue upholstered chairs, bottle racks behind glass, but no pictures. The effect was French provincial rather than London sophisticated, but at least tables in the busy room were well spaced and seats comfort- able.
The lunch menu costs £28 for three courses, including mineral water, coffee and petits fours, with two choices of starter and main course, and three desserts or cheese. Once again we began with a glass of champagne, at £9.50. Judith chose a `salade savoureuse' of haricots verts and foie gras en terrine to start, and I a mousse of leeks in a parsleyed cream of frogs' legs, which were preceded by a rather dull amuse- bouche of leek and potato soup. But the combination of the leek mousse and creamed frogs' legs was a winner and Judith's french beans and foie gras were superb. Next she ate a fillet of cod baked in a herbal crane and served with tarbais white beans; the cod was admirably light and fresh, but the dish slightly lacked punch as though needing a further ingredi- ent to 'lift' it. My gigolette of rabbit with a risotto of apes was of a high order, the rabbit tender and the risotto perfect and intensely flavoured by the capes. To end, Judith enjoyed a light but powerful parfait glace au café and I was delighted with my tourte aux pommel with cinnamon, accom- panied by a fine vanilla ice, a most welcome change from tarte tatin. With them we enjoyed glasses of unctuous vin de Banyuls '88 at a reasonable £6 a glass. Coffee was fine, but the petits fours a disappointment; dull and nondescript. With service and an excellent half of Château Caronne Ste Gemme '83 at £22.90, the bill totalled £123.64, which seemed some way from the starting price of £28 for a distinguished lunch, efficiently if rather coolly served.
The Park, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel Knightsbridge, London, SW1. Tel: 0171 235 2000. Open all week.
La Tante Claire, Berkeley Hotel Wilton Place, London, SWI. Tel: 0171 823 2003. Closed Saturday and Sunday lunch, Sunday dinner.
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