THE GOOD LIFE Pamela VANDYKE PRICE
Misconceptions about wine are curious. There's a vague notion, for example, that in the countries where it is made, it's always being made, and everywhere, so that any day now some friends will ring up and remark brightly that they're going away at Whitsun and can I arrange for them to see a vintage in the Cherbourg peninsula or the Alps? Then there's the 'treading the grape' misconception, people either horrified at the idea of human feet—to say nothing of other parts of the anatomy—being in contact with something they may want to drink one day, or else those who shudder aesthetically at the sight of a modern press or stainless steel vat because they suppose they'd like the beverage better if it came out of something archaic and impractical, with merry peasants gavotting on top.
Wine can be a wonderful thing even though it's also big business, however, and the lab, the spittoon and the refrigerating plant are as much a part of the mystery and the business as the flowering of the vine and the bloom on the grape. It so happens that the vineyards of Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria arc ancient as far as history and traditions are concerned, but the state monopolies of each have attained a quality level of production that is increasingly pleasing to UK drinkers on the lookout for everyday value.
As yet, Hungary is most widely represen-
ted in Britain and the table wines, costing about 70p a bottle, are available in mos merchants and even supermarkets. Edouard Robinson, who ship a whole range, doubled their business in 1970 from the previous year. Top favourite, as with all the wines or these three countries, is the Riesling, that incredible classic grape; sometimes it i just sold as 'Hungarian Riesling' or may bear a supplier's name, or its whole mum can indicate the region from whence i comes, such as Pecs Villainy. A white wine called Gabor is also made from the Ries ling, although it is quite unlike an ordinary Riesling, being fuller and softer. Red Taban from the Esterhazy country (there's glamou for you!) is, as I have recently described made from the Camay, the Beaujolais grape, very fruity, and the best known o all, Bull's Blood (or Egri Bikaver in Hun garian), is full and admirable with spicy casseroles that need a robust red wine.
Fred May, whose firm F. and E. May alst imports substantially from Hungary, dem onstrated the variety of these wines at :t recent tasting, and suggests that one with the name Furmint (the grape name, which means 'wheat') should have great appeal in the summer, because of its flowery smell and freshness. The names aren't actually impossible—Balatony Furmint means Fur mint from Lake Balaton—but F. and E. May have taken pity on us with one cane( Badacsony Szurkebarat, which is going tc. be literally translated as 'Grey Friar' ant will also be widely available this summer
I deliberately omit details of Tokay, one of the great sweet wines of the world, be- cause in Britain 1 think this particular kind of wine is for special rather than everyday drinking, but it is worth noting that there is a dry type, called Szamorodni, which costs about £1.10 for a half-litre. Fron Bulgaria the Riesling is again the favourite but look out also for Trakia, a slightly softer white wine, and two reds, each named after the grape variety,. Gamza, which is light in style, and Kadarka, slightly smoother and fruity. Both are pleasant summer drinking and will appeal to those who like what they describe as `grapiness' All the wines are non-vintage, but if you can keep the reds for two or three months so that they acquire 'bottle age' the im- provement is marked and the quality evi- dent; they can, of course, be drunk as you take them out of your shopping basket, but they are all so well-made that the addi- tional touch of care is deserved.
Furmirit and Kadarka, as well as the Riesling, also feature in Romanian wines. The region reputed to produce the finest quality Riesling is Tirnave, a name that appears on labels. For those who, like the individuality of the Muscat grape (I do, but if you don't, you just don't), there's Muscat Ottonel, which, because of its dry finish, is, like the Rieslings, an all-purpose wine, suitable for aperitif or first or main course serving. Sergacea Cabernet, made from another great grape, is a red wine from the south-west of Romania which I have enjoyed; Nicoresti, a little similar in style to claret, and Focsani are other names to try and remember when seeking out these wines. Easiest of all, however, is to visit the shippers, Norton and Langridge, who are also merchants, at Compter House, 4-9 Wood Street, London Ec2, where theY will pronounce the words for you and select appropriate bottles, including the Romanian plum brandy called Tzuica (start by think- ing you're going to say Tzigane), which costs £3.13.
Previous page
