The Good Life
The beefing ought to stop
PamelaVandykePrice
How now, costly cow? would be a topical greeting to one's butcher. But although I am as carnivorous as possible — I will happily eat boeuf tartare for breakfast — I really cannot deduce a tottering of the domestic economy because beef prices have gone up. It is all rather like the assumption that Sunday orgies, male attendants in ladies' loos and bidets adjacent to boardrooms will be an instant consequence of our be ing involved with countries where the price of tatter is higher than here. Also I well remember the time when, as newly-weds, we couldn't afford meat more than twice a week and yet managed to survive. An otherwise helpful paperback, Economical Mea t Cookery by Helen Tulberg (Arrow, 30o) gives a week's menus with meat served every day.
Of course beef is good. Like caviare, like fresh salmon, like grouse, like lobster, like peaches and nectarines, 1961 clarets, vintage Roederer, untreated milk, bread with a suggestion of the staff of life to it instead of the steam laundry, and water which comes from a spring rather than a tap. But I am not sympathetic with all of those who wail that they can't afford steak or sirloin when I also hear mothers of families admit they spend 50p per tot per sennight on confectionery, when pensioners own to spending pounds weekly on Bingo, and lovers of four-legged pals in towns lash out likewise on choice cuts for obese quadrupeds. And as an inhabitant of the Royal Borough of Kensington, I warn anyone thinking of immigrating hither that not only are the pavements doggified below but the verminous pigeon projects hazards from aloft — and the other day a horse committed a nuisance down the driving door of my car.
Those who wisely keep their protein intake up and their car bohydrates down can get plenty of recipes of an unpretentious but enjoyable kind from the Danish Food Centres, where they can also buy many protein foods. These centres are at 2-3 Conduit Street in London WI, Cross Street, Manchester, 56-60 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow C2, and 10 Stephenson Place, Birmingham, B2 4PY. The use of bacon joints has become established in Britain, but rashers seldom appear except with mixed grills and for breakfast. A very easy first course, which could also be a supper dish if accompanied by salad, is Plumrose's Pâté de foie truff6, forked un ljphtiv, snrinkled with crumbled crisped bacon and, for instant gourmetification, enhanced with a trickle of brandy. Meat isn't cheap in Denmark either — but many open sandwiches are admirably nutritious mini-meals.
Then there is the nut, high in protein and giving crunchiness to many bland foryds. HP.glth food shops usually have a selection, and toasted nuts can augment salads, garnish creamy soups and certain vegetables. Years ago a restaurant I liked used to combine Chinese water c'hestnuts with spinach. I have found toasted split almonds excellent with Brussels sprouts (hot or as salad) and sprout tops, and peanuts are good with cottage cheese.
And why are the British so chary oc cheese? In many 'how we spend our housekeeping' features — irresistible, because one could always spend it so much better — it is seldom used much for cooking, yet it can enrich soups, be added to scrambled or baked eggs and, with crumbs, make the crisp topping to many dishes finishel under the grill or baked in the oven. Indeed, a single egg, beaten lightly with a little milk, plus a tablespoonful or more of grated cheese, makes a type of savoury custard that, with or without toasted crumbs and a dab or two of butter, will make cauliflower, cabbage, tomatoes, peeled, sliced potatoes, topped with this egg and cheese mixture and baked in the oven for 30-50 minutes into a homely but agreeable meal for two or more people. Cheese is still a cheap source of protein, with no wastage to the portion if you have a good grater.
The most delicious book I have bought this year is Yann Lovelock's The Vegetable Book (Allen and Unwin, £5.50). The author, a vegetarian and a con siderable scholar, gives the his tory, legends and literature of plants, including ferns, nuts, herbs, spices, samphires, sesame and saffron, with advice on culinary use, though no recipes. I found it impossible to stop reading it — and Meg Rutherford's illustrations are worthy of the text. There are few books on food which I should have liked to have written — this is one. It is a major achievement in gastronomic literature.
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