Surf ’n’ turf
James Leith
It was meant to be a four-day fishing trip combined with gluttonous consumption of local Hebridean delicacies and long walks in the machair (the coastal grassland formed by beach sand driven inland by wind and tide, found only in north-west Scotland and western Ireland). But somehow BA managed to lose my fishing bag between Heathrow and Glasgow, so after forwarding several addresses on the island to Glasgow baggage-handlers, I arrived at Benbecula without the necessary. No problem. Our host immediately rustled up some gear which, in more accomplished hands, might have landed salmon, sea trout or brown loch trout in abundance. In mine, the catch was laughably small.
From the air, the island of North Uist looks more like an archipelago, so intertwined are the stretches of land and water. The Atlantic storms can cover the outer islands and the western shore completely, and in January 2005 much stock and several lives were lost when a storm left a dead bull seal on an inland doorstep and a dead whale 100 metres beyond the high-water mark. The storm washed out fascinating iron-age and bronzeage artefacts from the clean, sandy beaches, and farmhouse armchairs were found among the wrecks of fishing boats.
The miles of white-sand beaches (those with wet suits can surf) and estuaries offer, at low tide, pick-your-own scallops, razor clams and samphire. Or you can buy some of the finest peat-smoked salmon, sea trout and scallops from Fergus Granville’s Hebridean Smokehouse. His salmon are grown in sea cages out to the west, where the tides ensure healthy, muscular fish. Most are sold as breeding stock to more intensive farmers, but some, thank God, are peat-smoked for the benefit of you and me. If you are interested in the process, you can visit their viewing gallery, but you don’t have to — they supply by mail order. A birders’ paradise of oyster-catchers and corncrakes, the island’s record sightings last year of half a dozen snowy owls would have had Bill Oddie choking on his cornflakes.
If you are minded to stalk, shoot or fish, the North Uist Estate can offer deer, salmon, sea trout, brown loch trout and walked-up grouse and snipe (01876 500329). For hotels, try the Langass Lodge (01876 580224 or www.langasslodge.co.uk). B&bs and selfcatering cottages are also available — just log on to www.visithebrides.com or email lochmaddy@visithebrides.com.
We (my sister, Prue Leith, and the wonderful Albert Roux were of the party) stayed in the Old School House, where Albert was up at six every morning offering the Leith lieabeds cooked breakfast from 7.30 a.m. Not everyone gets fry-ups courtesy of Albert Roux. Mind you, when I was gutting my solitary brown trout I lost the roe to Albert’s lightning grab and swallow. ‘Delicious, Jamie!’ On the subject of seafood — and the Western Isles provide it in glorious abundance — it is nothing short of disgraceful that tankers of live lobsters leave weekly for Spain, and the best seafood restaurants in Edinburgh are offering Panamanian lobster!
To the north lie the islands of Harris and Lewis, more spectacular in that they are definitely less part of the sea and more touristand visitor-tuned. In many ways they are more obviously designed for sporting, walking and climbing holidays. But North Uist, with its huge skies, sea-level landscapes and do-it-yourself feel, is simultaneously less developed and more appealing.
BA flies twice a day from Glasgow to Benbecula, but for those with dogs, bicycles, cars or time, Caledonian MacBrayne ferries can be caught from Oban to Lochboisdale on South Uist or from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy. From either point, drive or cycle through some of the most remote, peaceful and wonderful scenery inhabited by friendly, Gaelic-speaking locals for whom nothing seems to be too much trouble, and no visitor, not even canine, is unwelcome.
Visits to the outer islands (even more outer than the Outer Hebrides — like St Kilda) as well as sea-fishing, whale-watching, diving and canoeing can all be arranged. Those entranced by activity holidays can contact the extremely knowledgeable Niall Johnson at the Uist Outdoor Centre (www.uistoutdoorcentre.co.uk), who will allow you to work up as much sweat as you like abseiling, rockclimbing, kayaking, or, God help you, doing an offshore island survival course.
As for us, after four days of scenic and gastronomic bliss — interrupted only by vain attempts to find my missing fishing gear via mobile phone and somebody else’s internet connection — we sadly returned to Benbecula for the flight home. As we checked in, a voice said, ‘Aaah, so you’re Mr. Leith. We’ve had a bag here for you for the last four days. We didn’t have an address for you.’ If North Uist is paradise, BA is the serpent.
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