MONTGOMERY'S JOURNEY TO Gl7ATEMAT.A.

GUATEMALA, or as it is pompously styled by its inhabitants, Cen- tral America, lies between the eighth and eighteenth degree of North latitude, Harming that long straggling neck of land which connects together the two great American continents. Except the low country near the sea-shore, it is described as a succession of mounteinous ridges crowned with wood, and of vallies more or less extensive, but generally well-watered and extremely fertile. From these mountain ridges, which are in ilia the blending- point of the Andes and the Rocky Mountains, many stretuns descend, feeding a variety of lakes and rivers, and eventually find- ing their way to the Atlantic and Pacific. Oceans. The respective seabords of Guatemala, billowing the curves of the coasts, art' each upwards of a thousand miles in extent, and are pretty well furnished with harbours or embouchures of rivers, supplying means of internal navigation. In the richness of its natural productions, whether mineral or vegetable, Guatemala yields to no spot on the face of the globe; but such arc the distracted state of the country and the laziness and ignorance of the people, that these advantages are turned to little account : the communications arc pretty much 11111 state of nature; the urban population ofthe interior is sup- plied at tut enormous price with a few European commodities, but live devoid of what every one except a Creole Spaniard would eon- saler conitbrt ; the rustics have advanced little beyond the primi- tive simplicity of Indian life ; and though the sea-ports display a greater civilization, they offer a striking contrast to a stranger front Europe or the United States. A slip of this new state on the Atlantic seabord, forms the British settlement of Honduras; but to Londoners the most notorious districts are " Poyais" and the -Mosquito Shore." Guatemala will, however, possess a greater interest, as soon as the Royal Mail Steam-Packet Company shall have extended their operations to the Bay of Honduras ; fin', so far as is at present known, it furnishes the readiest and by much the least expensive channel for connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. A natural canal already exists (at least for passengers, letters, and light goods) by the rivers St. Juan and the lakes Ni- caragua and Leon, to within less than twenty miles of the Pacific.

"The lake of Nicaragua is situated in the province of that name, at a dis- tance of about a hundred miles from the Atlantic Ocean, with which it com- municates by the river St. Juan. This river is now considered the most ad- vantageous and most practicable point for establishing a connexion between the two oceans. It is believed to be navigable for ve.4sels of three or four feet draft from its port to the lake ; and for vessels of twice that depth, as far as the point where the falls commence, which are the great difficulty to be sur- mounted. The surface of the lake, according to the statement of a Spanish engineer who executed a survey in 1781, is forty-six feet above the level of the Pacific ; its depth about fifteen fathoms. The distance from that sea to the South-western extremity of the lake of Leon, which communicates, as before stated, with that of Nicaragua, is, by the report of the said engineer, fifteen geographical miles ; and the intervening land is said to be sufficiently level to admit of the opening of a canal that should unite those lakes with the Pacific. " Should the grand work of uniting the waters of the two oceans be under- taken and accomplished, a revolution would be caused in the commercial world, attended with results in the highest degree beneficial to the inhabitants of both hemispheres. This part of the continent would become the great thoroughfare of nations ; and Central America would at once rise to an im- portance, both commercial and political, which otherwise she never can attain.

" That some difficulties exist towards realizing this object cannot he denied. One is the disturbed state of Central Anterica at the present moment, and the civil commotions to which it is subject at all times. Another would be to ob- tain a grant of land on each side of the river St. Juan, with the sovereignty of the country ceded; without, which a sufficient security would not be afforded to the persons and properties of our citizens who might establish themselves here."

That this grant of land with sovereignty over it would be ceded by a state ridiculously jealous of ibrisigners, seems very un- likely; nor do we see that it could be demanded with any face. A treaty of commerce with a right of navigation would answer all the purpose, and might probably be obtained. The first step, however, would be to perform the passage, and survey both river and lakes.

Such are the leading characteristics and claims of Guatemala: and thither Mr. .11o:crow:Ens was despatched by the American Government in 1838, on some business which does not transpire. Embarking at New York tbr Havanna, he took a passage to Truxillo, a port of Guatemala, but the wrong one : after remaining there some five or six days, he embarked tbr the English settle- ment of Belize, and sailed thence by a steamer fbr the inland port of Izabal. Here he found he was wrong too; for the coun- try was described to be in such a state of anarchy, that tra- velling was altogether unsafe—especially for foreigners, whose

throats were invariably cut by the insurgents, whereas a native in4sht be let off with plunder. At length a sort of caravan was

mane up, and mercnants, muleteers, ana ;tr. ;10NTGOMERY tunvea at Sacapa, without meeting any ',:her obstacles than those arising from mountain-ways. Ilere, howevi's, our envoy " became satisfied by the statements of Dun Mariano. that to proceed any further on the road would be the worst of follies:* and, after deten- tions and consultations. it was determined to turn aside some sixty miles to Esquipulas. where the roads might possibly be open. But there matters were worse and worse: and Mr. MONTGOMERY had again to turn aside for a hundred miles, and reach St. Salva- dor whence a military guard of horse and foot saw him safe to Guatemala. After he had finished his business there, he was again escorted by the direct route to where navigation commences, and civilization too, which the American scout recognized in a " teapot and a rocking-chair." Beyond a disposition to make himself at home everywhere, and to Otis, the rough and the smooth as they happen to emne, together with some acquaintance with the Speeish language and Spanish usages. Mr. MONTGOMERY has not qualifications to travel with advantage in Guatemala. Ile lack, knowledge, goleral or special. Inc is neither botanist, geologist, nor natural-historian ; so that all his descriptions of natural objects are vague I and he is too apt to repeat the marvellous stories of ignorance. He is equally deficient in an acquaintance with are and the more complex social relations; so that his observations are for the most part light and superficial, leaving little impression on the reader's mind. His bast quality is fluency of style; and when the subject or the incidt nt has any pal- pable features, he conveys a lively enough idea of it. litre is his account of one of the peculierities of the country—

TIM IZABAL halt El: AND LAKE.

It was late in the evening hefore our esscl ea:n..1 the mouth of the Izabal. This river takes its rise in a great fresh-water lake called Golf) Duke, and pursues a meandering course for some fifty s falling into the sea.

At the head of that lake is situated the foN n of the port of our des- tination. The entrance to this river is seare,i■ discernible. es en in the day- time, to an unpractised eve, till within about a lin:I.:red vards of it, when an opening is perceived in tie mountains like the month of.:111 immense cavern. The effect. as we approached it in the night. was -till more striking: a starry sky affiwiling just light enough to guide us on our path. but not sufficient to make objects distinctly visible. On entering the opening just mentioned, we seemed penetrating into the bowels of the earth. (In each side of 115 towered the lofty and precipitous mountains that form the banks of the river; and immediately in trout rose a high land. dark and frowning, AS if to debar com- pletely our further progress. Towards this lad. v, hieh appeared to recede as we advanced, the boat kept her way steadily and at a good rate for a full half hour, with her bows appari ntly not more than halt' a cable's length distant from it. There were moment", N, hen I n-011111(11 lest she 511011111 11111 :14ZaillSt it and be dashed to pieces. that 1 IliS interposition of land was only an illusion. caused by the windings of the river, and heightened by the confused appear- ance of objects in the night. About midnight the moon rose, and the effect of her pale silvery light on the trees and the water was beautiful beyond description. 1 could now see objects mere distinctly ; and felt satisfied that if there is any thing picturesque, beautiful. and sublime in nature, it must be the entrance to this river. The banks rise to a height of from two to three hundred feet, and are clothed with a rich and impenetrable foliage, the branches of the trees spreading several yards over the water. In some places this foliage suddenly disappears, and a vast naked ruck, smooth and flat and perfectly perpendicular, rises like a Btu • pendous wall, at the foot of which the depth of water admits of a vessel brushing the very face of the precipice without danger. Here and there may be seen a rill of water, as clear as crystal, coursing from top to bottom of this natural wall, or gushing out from a fissure in its side. At other places, a group of rocks assumes the appearance of an old castle or ruinous fortifica- tion. The stream varies in width from one hundred and fifty to three hundred feet, and is in many places thirty fathoms deep. It is (lotted at intervals with little islands covered with reeds; and the sharp turnings it makes give conti- nual interest and variety to the scenery. As we proceeded, the noise of the water thrown up by the paddles startled the tenants of this beautiful wilderness ; and every now and then we heard a plunge, like that of an alligator or an otter seeking the deepest recesses of the river, or the scream of an aquatic bird flying across the stream—the only

sounds that disturbed the silence of this solitary scene. * * *

At the fort of San Felipe, which is a ruinous and almost useless fortification, a soldier was put on board our vessel. This was done agreeably to the regula- tions of the Customs, in order to prevent smuggling. After leaving this place and proceeding about twelve miles, we reached the point where the river spreads and forms a lake of some twenty miles in circumference, called the lagunilla, or little lake, to distinguish it from the laguna, or great lake of Izabal. Here we saw a number of little islands of from five to ten acres in extent, covered with a species of cane or reed peculiar to the country. the re- semblance of o Welt to Indian corn gave to them the appearance of being cul- tivated. But, in reality, there were no signs of cultivation around us; nor could any human habitation be seen, either on the banks of the river or on the islands just mentioned. Birds and fish and reptiles seemed to be the sole lords of this wild domain.

After crossing the little lake, we came to the lake proper, where an immense sheet of water, extending to a circumference of not less than ninety miles, as- sumes the appearance of a little sea ; the distant mountains being only dimly visible in some places, while in others a perfect horizon is formed.

A GUATEMALAN BRIDGE.

We now came to where the stream, which we had thus far followed, poured its copious tribute into the river Polochic. In passing this river, we went over a bridge so novel and primitive in its construction, that it was decidedly the greatest curiosity I had yet seen. It was composed of the pendant branches of a tree. which, like those of the bannian-tree in the East Indies, grow down- wards till they reach the ground, and taking root, grow up again. Of these branches, which, properly speaking, are only strong flexible fibres, called in America &jams, a great number had been woven together, so as to form a cable of considerable strength and durability. This was stretched across the river, and formed the floor of the bridge, while on either side of it, and about three feet higher, two parallel cables ot smaller size, about the same distance apart, formed the banister or railing. The space between the upper cables and the main one was defended by a net-work of bejucos of a smaller size. Some idea of this invention may be formed by comparing it to a long narrow book, half open. In passing it, we seemed to be playing the part of rope-dancers ; only that, instead of a balance-pole, we had the side-cables to aid us in keeping an equilibrium. We passed one at a time, and at every step we took the bridge trembled from one end to the other.

A CLERICAL JOKE CARRIED TOO FAR.

every reason to ue pteasete mu.. nc a utast:, *lull US 111 our evening meal, and enlivened the repast by the wit and gayety of his conversa- tion. Ile could even play on the guitar and sing, and was easily prevailed on to exhibit before us these unclerical accomplishments. He was an intelligent man withal, and full of information and anecdote. His illustrations of the Indian character were highly interesting, and his remarks on the propensity of that people to idolatry both sensible raid mousing. With reference to this sub- ject, he related to us the following among other anecdotes.

One of his predecessors in the curacy had detected his parishioners in the

adoration of a god of their own. This was no other than au old Indian, whom they bad dressed up in a particular way, and installed in a hut, where they went to worship him, offering him the fruits of their industry as a tribute, and performing in his presence certain religious rites, according to their ancient practice. Ilis godship. who had no manner of work to do, and was regaled with all the good things that the village afforded, found this a sufficiently plea- sant mode of lift, and willingly sustained the character he had been made to assume. But such impious proceedin,gs the citrate was determined not to suffer. Ile remonstrated with his flock, and admonished them both in public and in private ; but all to no purpose—he was listened to by no one : he threat- ened, owl was threatened in turn. He now adopted another course ; and, af- fecting to ;.pprove the conduit or hi. parishioners, humoured them in the mad whim they had been seized with. It was that time of the year called Passion Week, when certain ceremonies are performed in commemoration of the suf- ferings of our Saviour on the cross. The curate proposed that the passion and death of Christ should be represented by the Indian deity in person; that he should have a crown of thorns put on his and be whipped and crucified. " After he is dead and hulled," said the citrate, "lie, of course, will rise again ; and then we will all believe in him."

The Indians were delighted with the idea, and, in their simplicity, deter- mined to proceed according to the sug,e,tions of their pastor. The old Indian was brought forth, and, 1011:91S decorated with the thorny crown ; he then rev 1i:ell an awful flagellation ; and finally, in spite of his entreaties to be exempted from so great and unmerited a distinetion, was actually (crucified. As 4.1011 I h.. poor Indian was fairly dyad, they took him down, and carried him to 11.e ..:.hags:-church; where, having itid ldin out, they watched hint, and waited w ia!eit,e interest for the third day, when he was to return to fife but before that d iy arrived, the body exhiliiteil such symptoms of dissolution, and began to he so if tisive. that the Indians already entertained doubts of the legitimacy of their ;yid. They held out, heivever, till the expiration of the third use ; when, tinditig that there was to be no resurrection, they „ al the body out of the church, and threw it on a dunghill. From that time forward, they submitted with exemplary docility to the directions of their spiritual guide.