SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

THERE is an advertisement carried on the wireless in America promoting goods sold by someone called Crazy Eddie who offers his wares at apparently knock-down prices.

There is, in truth, very little to compare Crazy Eddie with the incomparably elegant Adam Brett-Smith of Corney & Barrow, but the world-famous Brett-Smith Indul- gence, with which Wine Club readers are so gratefully familiar, certainly puts him in the same league for originality in salesmanship.

Perhaps I should remind readers of the details of the Indulgence: Londoners can knock £6 a case off any order for two cases or more; those living outside London can knock £6 a case off any order for three cases or more.

Corney & Barrow presented 20 wines from which to choose: it was not an easy task, but we gallantly soldiered on in your interests and I hope there will be something here for everyone. First up is Corney & Barrow's house white, yin de table, Producteurs Plai- mont(1). I have been drinking the Conley & Barrow house wines with great pleasure for many years. They have always seemed to me to be very good value, really tasting far better than one would expect at the price. A former chairman of Corney & Barrow once appar- ently described the white as having 'ides au dessus de sa gare'. This is a bright, crisp wine particularly suitable for those who have thirsty young and who may otherwise be tempted to choose something more painfully expensive. At £4.05 a bottle, or £3.55 with the Indulgence, this is a real bargain.

Next, a splendid New Zealander, Loft- house Sauvignon Blanc 1999(2), from the De Gyffarde vineyard in the Marlborough region. This has a zingy, gloriously fresh smell and delicious, clean, fruit taste. I think that at £7.33 (£6.83 with the Indul- gence) this is terrific value, perfect for a spring picnic wine and strong enough as well for quite powerful food. Delicious.

The last of the white wines is unusual in a Wine Club offering and I do hope you will give it a go, for the Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 1996, Schloss Schteborn is a real corker. The von Sehonboms have owned vineyards in the Rheingau region since the 14th century, and Paul Graf von Schonborn has produced a wine that repre- sents terrific quality at the price (£8.43 or £7.93 with the Indulgence) which quite threatens to make vulgar New 'World Chardonnays scramble for cover: clean, spicy and with a sensationally lush fruit taste and smell. This wine would be perfect on its own before luncheon or dinner. I think readers will find it well worth trying.

Now for the reds. The La Croix Barton 1997, AC Bordeaux(4) (£6.33 reducing to £5.83 delivered on the Brett-Smith Indul- gence) is signed off and anointed by the great Anthony Barton, of Leoville and Lan-

Nicholas Soames

goa Barton fame, from an idea hatched by Esme Johnstone of Château de Sours and Hamilton Narby of Château Guiraud. Between them they have produced what is a masterly house claret or, at any rate, a fine claret at a house-claret price. It has a perfect Bordeaux smell and an absolutely correct claret taste. A thoroughly decent and reasonably priced mouthful. Next, La Combe de Grinou Rouge 1997(5), AC Bergerac. Readers will remem- ber how my distinguished predecessor used to rave about the white version. This is really terrific stuff: a magnificent deep ruby colour with a rich, earthy smell and a fine, plump, dense taste as befits a wine made from the classic Bordeaux grape varieties. The price is frankly barmy, well up to Crazy Eddie's standard and, at £5.30 or £4.80 with the Indulgence, it will clearly be the peo- ple's choice. Bung it into a decanter and fool your in-laws.

Finally, Château de Juguet 1993, Grand Cru St Emilion(6). I urge Speccie Wine Club readers to be magnanimous. Forget mad cows and Nato spies and just remember that we beat them at rugby, for the French have done it again in offering a wine of a complexity and quality that it would be dif- ficult to match at the price of £11.47 or £10.97 with the Indulgence: a deep, matur- ing colour, magnificent nose, and full- flavoured and rich taste. This is delicious but there are very limited stocks.

May the Indulgence live for ever. Hats off to Brett-Smith.

ORDER FORM SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

c/o Corney & Barrow Limited, 12 Helmet Row, London EC1V 3TD Tel: (020 7) 251 4051 Fax: (020 7) 608 1373 e-mail: christine.baldwin@corbar.co.uk

White

Comey & Barrow's House White,

Price No. Value

Vin de Table, Producteurs Plaimont 12 hots f48.60*

Loft/souse Sauvignon Blanc 1999 12 hots f87.96*

Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling

Kabinett 1996, Schloss SchOnbom 12 bots f101.16* Red

La Croix Barton 1997, AC Bordeaux 12 bots f75.96*

La Combe de Grinou Rouge 1997 12 trots f63.60*

Chateau de Juguet 1993, Grand Cru

St Emilion 12 bots f137.64* , Mixed

Sample case, two of each 12 hots f85.82*

Sub-total Less Deduction TOTAL (cheque enclosed)

Please send wine to: NAME ADDRESS POSTCODE TELEPHONE Own name & address, if different: NAME ADDRESS POSTCODE TELEPHONE Prices include VAT and delivery on the British mainland. Payment should be made either by cheque with the order, payable to Spectator Wine Club, or by Mastercard/Visa, details of which may be telephoned or faxed. This offer, which is subject to availability, closes on 30 April 2000. *Deduct £6 per case for total orders of two cases or more in the London area, three cases or more elsewhere on the British mainland.

MASTERCARD/VISA NO EXPIRY DATE SIGNATURE