B KS.

VgArt-Y ltifirrA.* imme' efltitla lichen& to the Site Of an ancient town in Mexico, remarkable for ruins saidtb be those of a-palace of Mon:. tezuma, liing• in about 17`degreee of Ninth latitude and 97 degrees. of West longitude. The rims' themselves appear-striking if not imposing in Von. Ternpsky'a sketches, but ,belong to that pri- mreval massy stelc:of architecture in which effect inplainly pro- duced by heaping up materials, without much of variety in 4,2, sign or constructive skill to carry into execution any plans for personal accommodation, could the builders have conceived them. The visit to Mitla was, however, a mete;-episode in our traveller's rambles, which extended froth Mazatlan, a Mexican seaport at the onening of the Gulf of California„ to La Linen, a town in Salva- dor, lyingen,the Northern side of the Bay ofFonacca.. With few. exceptions, this jpurney Was made along the highlands. of Mexico: and Guatemala, passing through Derinigo, Leon, Mexico, Pueblos, Tehuantepec,. an. Guatemala,.- greater part was Made on'. horseback, a distance of *nearly two thousand five hundred Milea;

and generally with two associates.- .

The author's starting-point was San Francisco; vain hopes of . fortune having taken him to Galifornia„ as the political events of 1848 apparently induced him to q,uit Europe. The object of thi. long journey described in this volume does not clearly appenr,, The objeefin writing the accotuat of it was to portray ,the races:. that inhabit Spanish America, "in a lifelike manner ; in Von Terepskrs judgment, had never yet been d.one.. Our author has accomplished' his inteittion, if an artiatlike eye for ex- ternals, a fluent, free, and easy diction, with the sort of vivacity which arises from good animal spirits, a- little incrameed by a ten- denoy to make the most of 'things, suffiee to constitute ." lifelike". portraits: Beyond' great readableness which- the book undoubt- edly possesses, we do not know-that ifiats gives a better or more informing' picture of Metice and the Mexicans than previous: writers had produced, at least between Durango and Mexico.Neither- are- his topies always of the newest -Bull-fights have been often enough' described both in the Old World and the New. We have heard, too, something. about the lasso and -native skill in using it; as well as of the mingledeuperatitiOn and immorality, sloth and .self-sufficiency, of the Mexitans: The -clanger froni-the incursions of the-Indio:1m in the more Northern parts of the coun- try, as well as the' cowardice and uselessness' of the troops; are also Well, known; though our author may enfcrree-the knowledge' by more striking and dramatic instances. So it is With other mat-, tors —as the mode ofiravelling ; the absence of civilized accent" .motiatien, save in a few great taints, though there the native ac- commodation is of a very Spanish; that is, mediteval kind, the stranger depending upon some adventurcrue Frenchman for a restaurant or hotel.- The capital has been still oftener described than the country; but Von ilempsky brings out its position and external features with the eye of an artist. And the capital is made the place for introducing- some remarks 011 Mexicans and foreigners, though the-opinions' are formed: on a wider sphere of observation than oneeity can furnish. "Mexico may be said to contain about as ninny foreigners as it'cun afford. subsistence for. The greater number are • French and Germans; there are but few of either North Americana or Euglishmen. There is- scarcely a town in Mexico where a French tailor and a German watchmaker cannot be found; and in the most out-of-the-way places,- some stray Teuton.= Frank will turn up, either as shopkeeper„ doctor, bootmaker, or perruquier. Mexico is really overdosed with them ;.and they hate one another, from pure envy, more cordially than the Mexicans hate them all. From this rivalry the merchants may be excepted,: as they have a greater-field for action on fair terms, Asa general Minerals Mexican likes-the Frenchman best, CO/- first acquaintance • for ,say :they„ Frances time educarion,'—which. means that every acquaintance; can make his bow. But afterwards, he be- gins to' complainer the Frenchman being volistile.'—a quality which a. Mexi- can himself bus in the. highest degree, but dislikes persons who have the same east of character, for he suffers from it. Between the Englishman and, the German his choice is diffieult. Me is not blind to the excellent qush- ties of the former ; but his uncompromising straightforwardness often,. shocks his sensitive nerves, and he. generally. turns as much affection as he, is capable of bestowing on the German, who Is milder in judgment than the Englishman, and haaoften the same sterling-qualities. ,& Yankee he cannot bear,—partly, no deubt; commend of. the late. invasion, but also because, among mthaenmass• of suck as he seek he finds neither edueacioa; as in the Frenchman, nor principle, as in the Englishman. Generally, however., as the safest way to avoid mistakes, he makes up his mind to hate all-foreign- ers, and it takes time before he relaxes this prejudim in favour of indivi- duals."

The following reflections; prompted by the look of some idols which the traveller bought at Mitla would appear from late in- stances in the East to apply to other ihan American Indians.

"These little idols are generally but fist 'heads, and are said to have served as ornaments of the interior walls of the ruins we contemplated, on which they had been fastened with cement. All the faces were, of course,.

true types of spirit of all rralimkreligion,—awful, terrible, and hideous, countenances, calculated to inizienpe their worshipers with fear, the only feeling an Indian acknoWledgeieethe fit worship of genuine power.

"If all individuals, 'coinninuities; and governmente, that have to deal: with Indiana; Eastern as well acWestern, were but to understand and, act on this basis of the character ot the-savage,, bow many mistakes, disastrous in their consecniences, would,be u.voisbaci!,. 4,1i the hulls= of Ameripalsne-1 orifice but to the powers of ciariniese.: sood spirits, they thiftined.- never be propitiated; so itiey'Ap. reteiiii*' lint to the one they . An' organisation ofi*daiejsehteltbegetieterts fbeling of love marlieeit Irate: : a lIern4freiblattiagiatis and .*4021ITUAdreniarir afeoris.:;11;;;ItitiiP Mexico, Guatemala; and Satrattor..inlhe.game411353 let,1853,v wit/ ' the Ifode of Life in those CCU4tarkl, 4 p: X. Von Tettlps14, Edited by J.Szt, Bell, Author of "Journ/1 of -a lisiciette4 ih Clicassiw in' the years 1836 to 18.10:•'- Published by Longmans and Co.

even incredible, but it * not less true; all autitms and emotions which we consider impulses of gratitude and love, they call but effects of weak- ness."

Knocking about the world in one way or another has rendered our traveller accomiiiodatin,g in opinion and somewhat lax in his ideas. He can kneel to the procession of the host when on foot and it costs nO trouble, but he will not be inconvenienced for that purpose. We were not aware that the people were still so super- stitious in Mexico but this was his parting adventure with the capital.

'On:the 11th we made Our start. It was accelerated by one Of those lit- tle accidents Which happen frequently to fitteigners in Melia)... In those streets through which the vehicles have occasion to pass, carrying the Es- piritu Santo to the sick, allinasengers, on foot, on horse, or in carriage, are obliged to kneel until the procession passes,. On my first visiting Spanish countries, such occasions were generally productive of some obstreperous aeene, caused by my aversion to genuflexion in public. But, on having seen more of that world)I reflected that, as in the East; when a-Christian goesto a Mussulman feast he has to leave his soiled street-shoes at the door; so, before entering °elliptic countries, one should divest himself of ins national prejudices, and prepare to respect theirs. Thus have I often been compelled at length to do penance, when, after vain endeavours,. by flight and cirrumvention, to escape one Itolv Ghost,' a second edition) or some unexpected turn the that one took, would cornet' me at last, and bring me

to My marrowbones. ' - • • •

"On the day of our departing from Mexico, we lied outridden two of those processions, When suddenly, a third bore down upon us from a cross street. The surprise caused us a incepent of hesitation; when two rascally-looking '!Greasers' jumped te-the-reine of my horse, shouting, Down from your lone, on your knees, -yea foreigner ! ' Human nature,.. at -1ftst mine, is apt to break loose when thus suddenly assaulted; so, instead of going on my knees as ordered, I sent the fellows on theirs, by &hound of my horse and a benedictory 'crossing' of my whip ; and then we galloped down the long street cd' the suburbs, under a storm of indignation, stones,

dirt, and dirtier curses on Europeans in general." -

The part or the narrative after leaving the capital is more in- teresting than that which relates to the journey between Durango and. Mexico. . This must arise from its greater freshness, _since there are fewer terrible tales of. blood, and fewer adventures. • At Guatemala, an old friend of twenty years' standing . turns • up alive,, well, , . and improved; by absolute power. The reader . ef Stephens's "Incidents of Travel in Central America"t may remember. the oecupation or capture of Gnateraala. by the in- clan or ,two-thirds Indian adventurer Carrera, at the head of an Indian. army. Ile afterwards. became the -; chief of a setticel • governineat; and, what , is mach Stranger_ still, was in.- existence, and 'firmly established, in iSfrt. . When one con- siders how -rapidly the governments of Mexico and of the states

of • Central America, _ other than Guatemala, change rulers, and are involved in .'perpetual anarchy, the success of Carrera is wonderful, whether ii is Managed by mere force of character or by

sheer lucky balancing of the Indians against the aristocracy and the aristocracy against the Indians. The alien in blood. has tri- umphed over the patent prejudices of Spanish Creoles, Whatever they may think inwardly; but then, somebody has shill enough to reserve the best pluoes throughout the country .for.the• Gnate- malans. These °Mee-holders seem- to have energy to put down dissatisfied plotters. anel Carrera's military skill and decision deal with open revolt.. That there must be great tyranny on. occasions is clear; but it is less oppressive tO the country generally than the chronic Weakness and violence in 'the other states. Carrera, too, has a kind of rugged Magnanimity and generosity, which a poten.

tate nearer home Might imitate to hie advantage. -

-"I made thr acquaintance of twebrothers who had played a very proini neat Part in the last conspiracy againet-4 El Indio,' as they reall their Brows ruler. , Both showed a deal of heroism, worthy, if not of a:bettor cause, at lout of choicer means for the accomplishment of their purpose. A scheme for assassinating Carrera had been set on foot,„ an&. a widespread. mine of insittreothin *Mild have exploded by the "eueeesa Ciftheir plan. -Altiffian of an officer of-the army- was -chosen the'diecutieti of the Murder.' On grand clerical festival in the cathedral, at which Carrera assisted; this mit; oat mingled with the suited, thePreeident; and caMein pretty-near :vicinity of his Victim. 'He had his dagger .underneatb-his' cloak, and in unsheath- ing ir,• it fell from his hand to the grotted.. Theolang of steel onthe pave- meat startled every one; -the: consternation legible on She face Of the asses- sin,:and the dagger,:at, his feet, told thetaleof his intentions) and he was immediately wand' 'and--iniprisoned. His examination brought., to -light, amongstother names of less importance, those-of the two brothers, - belong- ing /Tan ancient and highly-reapected family-of Catalonian descent. .,,They were imprisoned, and event art weir used to malts them reveal the names of other important accomplices. They remained -firm; both were separately confined, and were told: at last, that- at 'the hour of . ten on the following morning they would be shot. At half-past nine first: victim, was led past the window of his remaining. hrether;-,-At the hour of ten) .a discharge of musketry announced. to the youimetbrother , that the older one hare- maimed true to the cause of liberty; and had defied the tyrant-and death to wrest:the secret from him. He felt sere he should follow his footsteps: tbrn,came : he was led to place of execution ;. a freshly-heaped hll- lock niarkedwhere Ins -brother Masithavesnifered, and an open one along, side of it yawned for the reception of his corpse. Ho:w.ataiked by Carrera himself, eneuiners) to reveal tried ltoy,;• but he remaiiied silent. The baithet was thrown over his face • Ae )tettiatheieoktlferp metcbifig.np within sitiort distince of 'Min; the Wortedamand 'Present-IV Wes'gfteii ; he

• /TM slick oftheir'fitiktelePipriptifrilt• renittiendIefirti

was given. But no discharge followed. The blanket vas reraiseed4T.Ciin.1 rerwhinseeifk:Witeraliook:hunkylliekand,,ang said ttiat.balefgaTeimnler 14.).n.i+Yf27. .14.141WFATiOlc blitheen playcd Ivan hisprourer, .440,1344 reinained,firm and ha bein pardoned also. -A ihart Lena ortS:.- ntabotent .was-h11 thfi'leeitty 4its ftillisted upon gtheni:''''This la:Of getierositiOn terietiP•drid- inert f8 caidt the fon-nations otitis throne than alftliestseimasif tatted lie had tilsixtm4vionsly.:th,; r. It•O:r With Spanish blood and Tropical aPetlin•tiaiidened crthe eon tinisal...Vicissitur dee arfinui polities, thiatouglOiskinicceeded. It might have beenittendedcWith terrible- death, --froth-the consti-- tutionsit sliPek, to in-en of otheimpltries.

, lihnzettordoniffilipage 758.

A'Chere, ones aMounting to 'ac mil 'figliUng,Ari .1 . . ..5., i. - AO 04,e4(.1Y.i0iPrate4 t- 0F,tuthq ..11#. s.SITIII ,107114tif7f4 li also had to eneounter the difficulties of the imay.,=,,,litere isicame.ie the mountains' of Guatemala, with: a' hint ae" to thoWliumb [Reese , - _.: -; , ;:iiir .1.-o'N.1-,.■?..,-.,..r: , it might have been. • . ' . ' " On approaching Patzuiri the find !Sada over a pretty level-Plaftikaad here we saw the most characteristic traces of the last ,earthquakes."- For a considerable distance the plateau seems to be an f_nninterruptbel level. But on ti sudden we came to a narrow rent in the eijelt surface, and stood on its brink, before we had the remotest idea Of the awful depth beneath cii; It is dangerous for those who are liable to giddiness ' to look .down into these black abysses ; their sides, like those of an impassable cleft inthe gletacheei of the Alps are smooth, perfectly perpendicular, and indented with smaller clefts fronAopto bottom, from which a few helpless bushes, Stretch forward, trying, as ono might fancy, to rebch the opposite wall for support. From the darlrabyis it the bottom of the tent; a ft* fir trees shoot upwards, and with their tops only reach the dim light above. • The whole seems a fit grave for despair .to boned-into. : . • . I• -..* . . a .

, .

" In the afternoon of the Sallie day we passed the town of Pacicia. Thb suburbs consist of a: labyrinth of, lanes, between gatdens and dwelling- houses. We lost our way through them, and had, Consequently, to thread it back to the main toad, over very uneven ground; cut up by little ravines, clefts, and small water-courses. We had dismounted,- and Mr. W----,---- was leading nay,berse.aa the vanguard; I .was.following in the rear driying his horse before me, when we arrived at a little chasm about lwers..4•7five or thirty feet deep. A broad jileek had been thrown acrotis-,d,:, mid -,Mr. Wfirat hesitated; and then tied tci lead -my horse over it. , r esti it vacillate,' durable, and disappear. ' 'A - deep patig that through me the faithful animal to come to so sorry an ending ofso lopg and sti !ravel:v. fought a journey !. I gave one bound forward, and . jumped downy-aid through the bushes of the precipice. There,. at the bottom,. lay My 'poor white-horse, with his legs doubled umler him, unable to 'get tin. I.tore the saddle from his back, and cheered him to Him, helping him tifteane and tail: the pocit fel** straggled a little, and that mein me e Sid leek, as much lit to say, 4. I'm done for! leave me to die.' My heart nearly burst within me. I took out a pistol, and, for a moment, thought ef abridging his satferiutei for I had no doubt that his four legs were broken ender him. • But, luckily, I observed that the ground or the bottoniwaif a very soft ', -black. earth, mixed with -rotten leaves; that the aides ' Of . the ' precipice converged, the bottom Where he lay being quite narrow ; and thatihus he 'might, perlunis, be only jammed. ' - :: 4,4 At that moment Mee 'Indians clambered down, and came to my Assist- ance. I put two behind and two in front of him; to give him a. lift, _ So soda as the two forward put their hands to his head. end mane; hegave ii snort like a lion, with one bound -Sprang to his feet; and ran down his sup- posed foes —for he abhorred Indians and-the Very sight, of a brown fare. And there he stood,. stamping,. - snorting, and looking up, amazed alba height from which he had fallen." . , . . . . . • .

Von .Tempsky is. not only ;entitled to the praise' of a facile and animated pen, but to .the. power of ;wielding- it-readily in ir foreign language. The.book is not a translation,!but is originally written in English, and- in .a way that very rarely suggests the idea of a foreign style. • • . : .

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