SIMON HOGGART
1 t was Michael Broadbent, doyen of wine writers, who first brought us the glad news about Chateau Musar. His enthusiasm for the near miracle created in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon by Serge Hochar helped popularise Musar around the world — and incidentally send prices up from fabulously good to merely excellent value.
Now, thanks to Lay & Wheeler's close relationship with the Hochar family, the Spectator wine club is able to offer a whole Musar experience in a case of four different wines, Two of these were new to me, and so they also appear in our regular sample case, alongside the month's other selections, which come from somewhat less exotic locations.
But first, the sensational Musars. The Château Musar 1997(8) will be familiar to all devotees of that deep, dark, rich, fleshy, fruity and — aptly — cedary wine. Broadbent gives it four stars, and only four vintages rate higher over the past 48 years. If you buy in bulk it's discounted to £12.95 and it's scrumptious.
Hochar pere et fils 2000(7) is the estate's second wine. It's very similar to its big brother, if rather lighter. At only £8.50 a bottle, it is perfect for offering in quantity at a generous dinner party. And now there is a yet cheaper alternative, the Musar Cuvee Reserve 2002(s), a yummy, wondrous bargain at £6.95. This has smoky hints of liquorice and cherries, and is certainly strong enough to go with roasts, game and casseroles.
Finally I do urge you to try a rarity, very hard to come by here: Château Musar White 1998(3). It's made from local grapes, the Obaideh and Merwah, and when I tried it I thought it tasted like tarte tatin in a glass, including apples, clotted cream, aniseed, cinnamon and even apricots. The Musar people urge you to drink it at just under room temperature, and then it is very fine indeed, though I loved it chilled as well. It would be a lovely aperitif, like a dry yet robust sherry, perfect with fresh fruit or dessert. It would also be marvellous with a herby dish such as tarragon chicken. This is a remarkable and unique wine; please do acquire some, if only in one of the sample cases. You'll want to buy more.
Our non-Lebanese wines begin with Lay & Wheeler's own Colombard from GasconyM, costing a mere £4.50. The Plaimont co-op works wonders these days: this is fresh and zingy and lemony, and overflowing with flavour. Friends will love it, if you can bear to part with any.
Lay & Wheeler also offer its in-house New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2002(2) from
Marlborough. It's available to Spectator readers at a generous discount. This is a fine example of an exceedingly popular style, and if it were bottled by a famous grower it would cost you quite a bit more.
Our reds include two more treats. I have rarely enjoyed a claret at this price so much as the Château Nicot 2000(4), discounted to only £5.95. It's soft and velvety, with real depth, and it knocks all those ghastly brand-name Bordeaux and 'good ordinary clarets' right out of the water.
Finally, the Abadal 1999(5) from Spain is made from the same grapes as many Bordeaux — Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot — hut has a richness and a savour you will rarely find outside the better chateaux. At a tasting with half a dozen friends and neighbours, people were almost fighting over the bottle to get the last drops. It is that good, and only £6.50.
Delivery is free, and the generous discounted prices quoted below apply to orders of any two cases or more.
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