29 JULY 1960, Page 15

AMERICAN FOOD

SIR,-1 was astonished to read Leslie Adrian's con- demnation of all American food found outside New York and San Francisco. Granted that in most countries the capital provides better food than the backwoods, and that the casual visitor often fares worse than the knowing resident, I am still surprised that Leslie Adrian did not discover any of the excel- lent speciality restaurants found all over the States in which immigrant groups produce their native cooking with abundant new world materials, or that he did not enjoy the reliability of things like steaks, French fried, cheesccake, salads and so on. I lived in America for more than a year and often ate very well indeed-1 ate better, in fact, as a 'help' in one hotel than I usually eat as a 'guest' in English hotels. I had the best and largest steak I have ever seen in the Shamrock Hotel in Houston. This, cer- tainly, is no chop-houses Istit does Leslie Adrian really suppose that no Texan millionaire can get a decent dinner unless he has it at home?—Yours