THIS month's offer comes from Bibendum, one of the newer
and most exciting London merchants. It includes some classics, a couple of astonishing bargains, and a delicious bottle from a country you might not know makes wine in the first place. I can't recall having offered such an eclectic selection. Consequently the sample case would serve if you needed something for a teenager's post A-level party, and just as well if the Queen — or Roy Jenkins — were to drop in.
The first is La Piazza Bianco Tenuta Casalbaio 2001", which, with an 11 per cent discount, works out at a laughable £3.67. Bibendum have a special interest in Sicily, which they see as the next coming area, and have this delectable, fragrant, fruit-filled, mellow and silky wine made to their own specifications. It is a terrific discovery, and I shall be buying plenty for long summer Sundays and alfresco parties.
I'm in danger of becoming a South African wine bore, but I don't care. The Life from Stone Sauvignon Blanc, made on the Springfield Estate 2001/22, is gorgeous, and a beguiling change from all those delicious but sometimes predictable Kiwi Sauvignons. The Bruwer family have been on this estate, with its great chunks of limestone — hence the name on the bottle — since 1688, when they arrived as the Brueres from the Loire valley. It's more elegant and old-world in style than you would ever expect, and at £6.50, a 9 per cent discount, it is superb value.
Bibendum have kindly knocked another 11 per cent off the Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2001''' from Alois Lageder. Pinot Grigio can be thin and disappointing in those Italian restaurants where more attention is paid to the size of the peppermills than the quality of the wine. This is altogether superior stuff. It's full-flavoured, spicy and peppery, a deeply satisfactory drop of wine from one of the classic grapes.
Spectator readers are great Gewiirztraminer fans, and you will adore this, the 1995 from Louis and Pierre Gassman. It's not cheap, but it is very, very good. The Gassmans make it with immense care and craftsmanship. They keep their yields low, and pick as late as possible in the season. This is always a gamble in Alsace, but when it succeeds it pays off magnificently, as the wine has a more concentrated, sensuous, beautifully balanced flavour than cheaper versions. A lovely, mature wine, to roll round the tongue as an aperitif, or to sip slowly, with fresh, ripe fruit. A great treat, especially as Bibendum has knocked off a tenner per case.
Now another wine of astounding value. The Libertad Malbec 19990) from Argentina has had its price cut by 21 per cent purely in order to make room for the next vintage. It now costs a mere £3.25 a bottle. I don't see how it is done. This is a lightish wine, as you
would expect at the price, and when we first opened the bottle we thought it a little soso. But half an hour later it had opened out, and proved to be fruity and powerful and even elegant. You could enjoy it on its own, or sling it into fruit cups, or, at that price, wash the silver in it. A terrific bargain.
Finally, for the first time, a Tunisian wine. No — don't go away. This is special. It is made from Carignan, the archetypal hotweather grape, and it's smashing. I tasted nuts and toast and caramel and raspberries (as well as grapes, of course, but we wine writers don't normally stoop to mention that). It's reminiscent of Italy or Spain. Fifty years ago North Africa produced half the wine that crossed the world's national borders, most of it plonk going to France. Now the Tunisian government is trying to ally the excellent climate to modern techniques, and if this scrummy Accedemia del Sole'" is anything to go by, they are succeeding fast. If you're feeling cautious, do try it in the sample case. I doubt that you'll be disappointed, especially at under a fiver a bottle — a 12 per cent discount.
Delivery, as always, is free, and you can deduct a further £5 a case if you buy three or more. Buyers in the first month have the chance to buy more stocks at the offer price for a further four weeks after it closes.
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