RECOLLECTIONS OF A RIFLEMAN'S WIFE. GOA. AND THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.

NILE NOTES.* AT one time a book of travels, whatever else it might be, was solid. A traveller who ventured upon a volume had either something to tell about a country that had not lately been written upon, or he

had some peculiar sources of information or special object of pur- suit, or he flattered himself he possessed a peculiar aptitude for painting manners and nature ; while the slow progress men were then compelled to make, waiting for time and tide though time and tide would not wait for them, gave more leisure to look about and

accumulate materials. Even with facilities of locomotion, a tra- veller's record of his observations was up to the present time one of the likeliest books for something real and informing, despite the ex- ample of Sir John Carr and succeeding bookmaking tourists. The march of mechanics and of mind, if mind be shown in writing, bids fair to change even that, and render narratives of travel not merely slight, trite, or iterative, but empty and wordmongering. Steam for moving and for printing, machine-made paper, the spread of education, and the fashion of scribbling, threaten to make travels as common as " sketches," which every one imagines he can com- pass if he has eyes to see, though he sees not. Three recent books about parts beyond sea are of this kind ; though Recollections of a Rifleman's Wife, and Goa and the Blue Mountains, have more reality than Nile Notes.

Mrs. Fitz Maurice is an officer's wife, who has recounted her reminiscences of travel from one country to another in obedience to orders, mixed with observations on the people, descriptions of scenery, accounts of prices and parties, little incidents, and oc- casional stories. Her book opens in 1827, with "a route" to Ireland ; where she and husband remained some months in bar- racks, then returned to England, and were quartered at Plymouth. From Plymouth the Rifleman was ordered to Malta : to avoid a long sea voyage, the husband and wife journeyed through France to Marseilles; but, embarking at Marseilles in a Maltese vessel, they were tempest-tost, and glad to get shelter in Sardinia. Here they remained while the vessel was repaired, seeing the sights, and being a sight themselves. They afterwards went on to Malta ; at which island the reminiscences close : but there is a rapid sketch of the exploits of the Rifles in the Peninsula and South of France, before Mrs. Fitz Maurice was connected with the corps, apparently from information furnished by the mess. Though the matter is not profound, the volume is pleasant, from its variety of subject, its easy style, and unaffected manner. The reader is never detained long enough at a place or upon a subject to tire of it ; and, short as each chapter is, there is a frequent change of topic. The time that has elapsed since the book was written has probably made some changes in the more statistical part; but in the freshest subject, the sojourn at Sardinia, manners are most likely as they were twenty years ago. The Sardes are out of the world, and philosophers tell us that movement comes from external promptings. These modes are probably as they were.

" We were lodged in what I suppose was the first hotel of the place, and which was literally open house all the twenty-four hours. The first night, what between the fierce attacks of swarms of mosquitoes and he'll altri, and the perpetual whirring sound of the favourite game of morra in an adjoining room, sleep was out of the question, even to the most weary ; and I was wondering what time these mendionali took to rest, but soon found it was a very dif- ferent arrangement with them to what Alfred made it. At any time of the day or night when he feels so disposed, and without any previous ceremony,

* Recollections of a Rifleman's Wife, at Home and Abroad. By Mrs. Fitz Mau- rice. Published by Hope and Co. Goa and the Blue Mountains ; or Six Months of Sick Leave. By Richard F. Bur- ton, Lieutenant Bombay Army, Author of a Grammar of the Mooltaaee Language, &c. Published by Bentley. Nile Notes. By a Traveller. Published by Bentley.

the Sarde, wrapping his sheep-skin or cloak about him, and with no softer bed than a wooden bench or the floor, finds that balmy sleep' which is oft- times denied to a king.' The dinner-hour in Cagliari is two o'clock, and to this meal it is not the fashion to invite ladies ; but, with the thermometer at 92' in the shade, I thought it a custom more honoured in the breach than the observance,' and I was quite satisfied only to join in the evening parties given by the authorities, out of compliment to our consul; who, with his amiable wife, appeared to be greatly respected by all ranks. The tables, I was told, were loaded with all kinds of native and foreign delicacies. What I saw of the cooking appeared to me too rich and heavy for our English taste ; though the wild boar, dressed with the agro dolce sauce (a happy combination, as its name implies, of sweet and acid) and a sort of cream made of eggs and wine, called sanbaion, might be approved of by Monsieur Boyer himself. "The native ladies are very ignorant, hardly ever looking, into a book ; and their conversation turns upon nothing but dress and the affairs of their neighbours, whom they watch from their windows the greater part of the day. Nor is the want of mental cultivation at all compensated for by their personal attractions. They are, generally speaking, about the middle height, heavy figures, and with complexions not dark, or olive, or even tawny, but positively pale orange. When full dressed, they wear seven petticoats (of six or seven breadths each) of the finest cloth, a rich scarlet or geranium co- lour, and bordered with gold or yellow. No stays, but a long binder of coarse calico confines the waist ; and over it is worn a tight-laced boddice, with very full white sleeves. A little fantastic apron, and a veil thrown over the back of the head and falling on the shoulders, completes a costume which would be becoming to any but a Sarde beauty. "The dresses of the people are very picturesque, every trade being distin- guished by a different one. That of the butchers is particularly handsome, and on a gala day is worth from 50/. to 601. of our money, from the quantity of silver lace and buttons with which it is adorned : many of these descend from father to son."

The eruption of Graham's Island, (which soon after sank to a shoal,) off the coast of Sicily, took place as Mrs. Fitz Maurice was about returning home ; and she had the gratification of seeing that rare sight a volcanic island in the course of formation. " It was on the 5th of August, at 6.30 p. m., smoke was first visible to the many anxious eyes on board the Melville, at the supposed distance of about thirty miles. This as we proceeded became more apparent, rising to a con-

siderable height above the horizon ; at first, as it appeared, from three sources, but further observation showed it to be but from one, divided by the wind, for presently another column arose to windward, whose more rapid

ascent showed it originated immediately from the volcano, and which, as it settled over the water in a tardy progress to leeward, assumed a thousand picturesque forms. Bright forked flames were seen to dart upwards ; and a loud rumbling noise was heard, compared by a young midshipman on board to the rattling of a chain-cable when the anchor is let go. " At daybreak the following morning I was awoke by a rap at my cabin- door ; some one telling me that we were fast approaching the island, and that

I had better make haste, as wo should soon have passed it if the wind con-

tinued in the same direction. I made a rapid toilette, and, putting on my bonnet and cloak, ran upon deck: and never shall I forget the sublime sight. In the soft, warm, gray light of a Mediterranean morning, and from the bosom of a perfectly ;unruffled ocean, the new volcano was exhibiting its mighty operations. From the crater, which appeared in the form of a cone,

jagged at the top, a fleecy vapour rose in globular clouds, which, expanding themselves majestically, assumed in their ascent the form of a towering plume—' si pares lieet coenponere magnis'—that known as the illustrious de-

coration of the Prince of Wales. Large stones, carrying with them a rose quan- tity of black dust, were thrown up, and as they se and fell broke into a thousand curious shapes; and the effect of this through the white vapour

was magically beautiful. Flashes, like lightning, darted occasionally through

the vapour ; and noise, as of thunder, was distinctly heard. All this time the white smoke was extending itself, so as to cover the whole island ; hang- ing together like that which issues from Vesuvius, and then ascending in an unbroken column for a much longer time than smoke generally does. The

eruption appeared to be most violent at intervals of two hours; at 11.30

one took place in some respects different from those I have attempted to de-

scribe. It began with a similar burst of white vapour, and similar projec- tions of stones and dust ; but immediately after the latter followed a copious mass of black lurid smoke, which, overpowering the white vapour, covered in its turn the whole island. The effect of this was less beautiful than the former, but more awful. At this time we were sufficiently near for the deck of the vessel to be covered with the black dust, which was thrown up in great quantities, and of which, as well as of some cinders, I have a specimen. It is harsh to the touch, and in colour resembles gunpowder. The latter were gathered in a curious way. The hides of some bullocks, which had

been killed in the morning for the consumption of the ship, had been as usual fastened to the stern, to be purified by dragging through the water, and in them the cinders were entangled and brought up into the ship. The splash made by the stones, which durine some of the eruptions fell into the sea at the estimated distance of about seventy feet from the island, was greater than that of a shot fired from an eighteen-pounder, and showed they must have been of considerable magnitude. " The wind was light, and the Melville made but little way. At one p. m., however, we passed the East corner of the island ; when the immediate source of these eruptions was visible. Here was the mouth of the crater. On this side, the island, which in form resembled a horse-shoe, with the sides some- what beaten out, did not rise above the level of the sea, but formed a bay and from this ebbed a boiling, bubbling stream, leaving its own track in the sea for about three-quarters of a mile. Here it seemed as if a continual con- flict was waged between the two elements of fire and water. Tho sea, rush- ing into the mouth.of the crater, was opposed by the fire within, and, partly repelled, formed a whirling steamy Charybdis."

Lieutenant Burton, of the Bombay Army, got leave of absence for six months to visit the sanatory station of the Neilgherrics ; and, by way of recruiting his health, he sailed in a country vessel from Bombay to Goa, and from Goa to Calicut. After seeing what was to be seen in and about these towns, and giving an account of their history, as well as of the different tribes which inhabit these re- gions, he started for the Blue Mountains. Of the monotony, bad accommodation, and even of the climate of these health-giving hills, he makes an indifferent report, and seems to have quitted them before his leave expired : but the Lieutenant is or affects to be a dissatisfied man.

The reader who shuts the volume (as it is not unlikely he might do) at the first fifty or sixty pages, will form a very indifferent opinion of the book. The manner is affected, the style a dead- lively attempt at smartness, and the matter next akin to nil—an empty description of a vessel, the crew, the voyage, and New Goa, with a cicerone or two and the Governor. Both the matter and the manner afterwards improve, though there is still too much of bookmaking about Goa and the Blue Mountains; and the Lieute- nant, though a good fellow in the main, has some of that laxity which Sir Charles Napier's lucubration would lead one to expect from the Indian Army. The effect of the matter is somewhat marred by incongruity of subject and want of continuity in nar- rative. The character and condition of the Portuguese, the native Christians, and the other natives at Goa, which Lieutenant Burton draws from observation, stand not well against the historical part, which he derives from books. The same remark may be made re- specting the Malabar coast and the Neilgherries ; where the past and present jostle each other, the past seeming out of place where the present is so lightly treated. There is also little or no plan. The Lieutenant goes on till he stops, then draws a dash across his page, and begins with something else. Yet there is a good deal in the book that is both informing and amusing, if it were sepa- rated from the encumbering parts. One-half would be better than the whole.

The author has one requisite for a traveller—a knowledge of the people among whom he travelled, and of some of their languages. Hence he can bring out a scene, and give a story without loss of the characteristics. The following is not without interest as a tale and a picture of national manners.

"Suddenly we heard, or thought we heard, a groan proceeding from be- hind the tree. It was followed by the usual Hindoo ejaculation of Rani ! Ram I' "Our curiosity was excited. We rose from our seat and walked towards the place whence the sound came.

"By the clear light of the moon we could distinguish the emaciated form and features of an old Jogee. He was sparingly dressed, in the usual ochre- coloured cotton clothes, and sat upon the ground with his back against the trunk of the tree. As he caught sight of us, he raised himself upon his el- bow, and began to beg in the usual whining tone.

" ' Thy gift will serve for my funeral,' he said witha faint smile, pointing to a few plantain-leaf platters, containing turmeric, red powder, rice, and a few other similar articles.

" We inquired into what he considered the signs-and symptoms of ap- proaching dissolution. It was a complaint that must have caused him in- tense pain, which any surgeon could have instantly alleviated. We told him what medical skill could do, offered to take him at once where assistance could be procured, and warned him that the mode of suicide which he pro- posed to carry out would be one of a most agonizing description.

" I consider this disease a token from the Bhagwan (the Almighty) that this'form of existence is finished V and he steadfastly refused all aid.

" We asked whether pain might not make him repent his decision, perhaps too late. His reply was characteristic of his caste : pointin,e. to a long sabre- cut, which seemed the length of his right side, he remarked,

have been a soldier under your rule. If I feared not death in fight- ing at the word of the Feringee, am I likely, do you think, to shrink from it when the Deity summons me ?'

" It is useless to argue with these people ; so we confined ourselves to in- quiring what had made him leave the Company's service. "He told us the old story, the cause of half the asceticism in the East—a disappointment in an affaire de cceur. After rising to the rank of naiek, or corporal, very rapidly, in consequence of saving the life of an officer at the siege of Poonah, he and a comrade obtained leave of absence, and returned to their native hamlet in the Maharatta hills. There he fell in love, des- perately, as Orientals only can, with the wife of the village Brahman. A few months afterwards the husband died ; and it was determined by the caste brethren that the relict should follow him, by the Suttee rite. The soldier, however, resolved to save her ; and his comrade, apprized of his plans, pro- mised to aid him with heart and hand.

"The pyre was heaped up, and surrounded by a throng of gazers collected to witness the ceremony, so interesting and exciting to a superstitious people. "At length the Suttee appeared, supported by her female relations, down the path opened to her by the awe-struck crowd. Slowly she ascended the pile of firewood ; and, after distributing little gifts to those around, sat down, with the head of the deceased in her lap. At each of the four corners of the pyre was a Brahman, chanting some holy song. Presently the priest who stood fronting the South-east, retired to fetch the sacred fire.

"Suddenly a horseman, clad in yellow clothes, dashed out of a neigh- bouring thicket. Before any had time to oppose him, his fierce little Maha- ratta pony clove the throng, and almost falling upon his haunches with the effort, stood motionless by the side of the still unlit pyre. At that instant the widow, assisted by a friendly hand, rose from her seat, and was clasped in the horseman's arms.

"One touch of the long Maharatta spur; and the pony again bounds, plunging through the crowd, towards the place whence he came. Another moment and they will be saved !

"Just as the fugitives are disappearing behind-the thicket, an arrow shot from the bow of a Rankari, missing its mark, pierces deep into the widow's side."

Nile Notes is by an American, who made the " grand tour " of Egypt ; ascending the river beyond the cataract, and taking the

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sights, as usual, on his return. The subject has been treated too often, and by very able hands, to allow of freshness in itself : the American has not the learning or science necessary to endow it with critical interest; he aims at effect by rhapsody and smartness. The book could only have been written after travelling, but it is hardly a book of travels. The author makes accidents, incidents, occurrences, the remains of the past, and the actual present, as well as the individuals or characters he may have met, topics for writing about. The volume is not a continuous narrative, but a series of articles. A servant and interpreter are necessary : the traveller writes a chapter on what, with a kind of pun, he calls the Drag-o-men. His boat was named the Ibis ; the crew, as is the custom with crews, chant: there is a paper—" The This Sings —in which we have a sort of reverie about Oriental singing. They start on the voyage—" The Ibis Flies"; that is, an account of rig, 'sailing qualities, &c. The author visits the dancing-girls; and 'writes a couple of chapters entitled "Fair Frailty"; and so on through forty-seven papers.

This would be very well if there were reality and interest in the matter: but there is not; .it is fancy run frantic. The Ameriean

has some smartness, and some vigour, but both are marred by affectation, self-conceit, and a -wordy expression of mere OPinion, which he intends for poetry. The authors of Bothen and Vivian Grey are the writers on whom 'the tourist has.formed:his manner but he outherods Herod. Some of his better chapters might read well enough by themselves, but even were all like the best parts the book would still be tedious. Mere fancy and its associations may attract for a little while, but the reader soon tires of smart writing however cleverly it may be written. This sketch of an evening walk in Cairo will give an idea of the writer's best manner.

"To our new eyes everything was picture. Vainly the broad road was crowded with Muslim artisans, home-returning from their work. To the mere Muslim observer, they were carpenters, masons, labourers, and trades- men of all kinds. We passed many a meditating Cairene, to whom there was nothing but the monotony of an old story in that evening and on that road. But we saw all the pageantry of Oriental romance quietly donkeying into Cairo. Camels too, swaying and waving like huge phantoms of the twi- light, horses with strange gay trappings curbed by tawny turbaned eques- trians, the peaked toe of the red slipper resting in the shovel stirrup. It was a fair festal evening. The whole world was masquerading, and so well that it seemed reality.

"I saw Fadladeen with a gorgeous turban and a gay sash. His chibouque, wound with coloured silk and gold threads, was borne behind him by a black slave. Fat and funny was Fadladeen as of old ; and though Fermorz was not by, it was clear to see in the languid droop of his eye, that choice Ara- bian verses were sung by the twilight in his mind.

"Yet was Venus still the evening star ; for behind him, closely veiled, came Lana Rooky. She was wrapped in a vast black silken bag, that bulged like a balloon over her donkey. But a star-suffused evening cloud was that bulky blackness, as her twin eyes shone forth liquidly lustrous.

"Abon Hassan sat at the city-gate, and I saw Hare= Alraschid quietly coming up in that disguise of a Moussoul merchant. I could not but wink at Abon, for I knew him so long ago in the Arabian Nights.' But he ra- ther stared than saluted, as friends may in a masquerade. There was Sin- bad the porter, too, hurrying to Sinbad the sailor. I turned and watched his form fade in the twilight, yet I doubt if he reached Bagdad in time for the eighth history. " Scarce had he passed when a long string of donkeys ambled by, bearing each one of the inflated balloons. It was a hareem taking the evening air. A huge eunuch was the captain, and rode before. They are bloated, dead- eyed creatures, the eunuchs—but there be no eyes of greater importance to marital minds. The ladies came gaily after, in single file, chatting together - and although Araby's daughters are still born to blush unseen, they looked earnestly upon the staring strangers. Did those strangers long to behold that hidden beauty ? Could they help it if all the softness and sweetness of hidden faces radiated from melting eyes ? "