JOURNAL OF A TOUR BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

FROM the last boundary line of American settlement to the shores of the Pacific Ocean, is a distance of from 1,500 to 2,000 miles. The first part of this space is an exten.4ive plain, thickly interspersed with various rivers feeding the Mississippi or theNorthern Lakes, and sometimes clothed with forests, but more frequently funning the naked prairie; the second district is that of the Rocky Moun- tains, which form the backbone of North America, as the Andes do of the Southern continent ; the third is a descending country, in- tersected, like the valley of the Mississippi, by many rivers, all of which, rising between the 42d and 52,1 degrees of latitude, fall by the Columbia into the Pacific. This last district is one of the principal seats of the fur-trade; and is divided between the Ame- rican and the Hudson's Bay Companies, which have both formed establishments in it, those of the Hudson's Bay being the most numerous and best-conducted. Throughout these extensive re- gions, various tribes of Indians still roam unsubdued, though di- minished, and contaminated. To convert and civilize them, is an object of the American Board of Foreign Missions ; and the Re- verend SAMUEL PARKER was employed to undertake a journey in order to ascertain the practicability of penetrating with safety to " any and every portion of the vast interior,- and the disposition of the natives to receive missionary instruction. For this pur- pose, Mr. PARKER joined the caravan of the American Fur Com- pany, which annually journeys to the 11.,cky Mountains, to fur- nish the hunters with goods and supplies and bring back the peltries they have collected. Reaching a spot called, from its uses, the Rendezvous, our missionary quitted the caravan, and accompanied a Wily of Indians, whom he had disposed to listen to the word, if not wholly to receive it, across the mountain- range to the Columbia river, which he descended to Fort Van- couver, the principal station of the Hudson's Bay Company. Here he sojourned a considerable period, making excursions to seaward as far as the Pacific, and inland in various directions, wider the guidance of Indians and Freuch half-breeds. Having at length fulfilled the subject of his mission, and resolved both his instructions in the affirmative, he took a passage in one of the Hudson Bay Company's vessels, to the Sandwich Islands; whence, al:er a long detention, he sailed for America.

The Astoria and Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by WASH- INGTON IRV I NG, with the travels and novels of his nephews, have

familiarized the English public with the romance of .life in the Prairies, and of adventure in the Rocky Mountains and the houseless wastes on their Western sides. Mr. PARKER con- fines himself to its matter of fact; and his plain, unadorned narrative, certainly makes the gay, jaunty, half-sentimental half-savage account of prairie excitement and mountain priva- tions look very much like a fiction. A man cannot, indeed, ride three or four months on horseback and sleep in tents with- out fatigue ; or subsist, during that period, on the provisions he carries or catches, without occasionally being hungry or ap- prehensive of hunger ; and when vigilant Indians, who may prove foes, are lurking around, there is always the prospect of a scrimmage to stimulate attention. But for these things Mr. PARKER seems to have prepared himself, and he regards them somewhat as matters of course: the minute peculiarities of cos- tume and character, which give so much charm to IRVING'S sketches, he did not see; the excitement he did see had not its origin in the love of hunting or ambition of discovery, but in hunger or alcohol ; and over the narrative of "hairbreadth 'scopes and battle dangerous" with wild beasts or wilder men, he casts considerable doubts.

There is, howeser, something more in the Journal of a Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, than a bald commonplace narration, which sometimes by direct allusion but more frequently by straightforward unconsciousness, dissipates some of the wonders of romance. Although incapable of seeing in nature, or relishing in art, the minute characteristics which the skill of a literary GERARD Dow has seized, and refined in realizing, Mr. PARKER'S pen, always clear, sometimes rises to eloquent effects when thi.e stupendous wonders of creation require to be described. His re- ligious object gave him a constant pursuit, and caused him occa- sionally to exhibit an unintentional exaggeration, as great, per- haps, as that of those who limit their ambition to secular triumphs. It was impossible, also, to sojourn at the stations of the two great companies who divide between them the whole fur-trade of' the North American continent, without picking up some informa- tion respecting their modes of proceeding ; or to mingle with the men in their employ without hearing of or seeing some strange scenes or striking traits of character. Such are

TIIE PLEA SURES OF THE PRAIRIES.

A day of indulgence was given to the men, in which they drink as much as they please, and conduct themselves as they may choose. It was found that ardent spirits excited so many evil spirits that they may be called legion.

A Mr. G. shot a man by the name of Van 11 ,with the full intention to kill him. The ball entered the back and came out at the side. Van B. exclaimed, " I am a dead man ;" and after a little pause said, "No, I am not hurt." G. on this seized a rifle to finish the work ; but was prevented by some men standing by, who took it from him, and fired it into the air.

The day of indulgence being past, a quiet day followed. The exhilaration was followed by consequent relaxation; and the tide of spirits which arose so high yesterday, ebbed to.day proportionably low. The men were seen loung- ing about in listless idleness, and could scarcely be soused to the bm.inest of making repairs and arrangements for the long journey yet before us. * *

A few days after our arrival at the place of reudezvous, and when all the mountain-men had assembled, another day of indulgence Was granted to them ; in which all restraint was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's happiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place near evening, as a specimen of mountain life. A hunter, who goes technically by the name of the great bully of the mountains, mounted Ids horse with a loaded rifle, and challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, to light him in single combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him, if he wished to die, he would accept the challenge. Shutter defied him ; C. mounted his horse, and with a loaded pistol rushed into close contact, and both almost at the same in. stant fired. C. 's ball entered S. 'a hand, Caine out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. S.'a ball passed over the head of C. ; and while he wept for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might be spared. Such scenes. sometimes from passion and sometitnes for amusement, make the pastime of their wild and wandering life. They appear to have sought for a place where, as they would say, human nature is not oppressed by the tyranny of religion and pleasure is not awed by the frown of virtue.

DOINGS AT FORT WILLIAM.

Here, some months ago, a man named Thornburgh was killed by another named Hubbard, both from the United States. A controversy arose between them about an Indian woman. Thornburgh Was determined to take her from Hubbard, even at the risk of his own life. He entered 11.'8 cabin in the night, armed with a loaded rifle. H. saw him, and shot him through the breast, and pushed him out of the door. Thornburgh fell, MI expired almost instantly. A self.created jury of inquest sat upon the body of Thornburgh, and brought in a verdict that he lost his life by the hand of Hubbard in self-defence.

In Thornburgh there was an instance of a most insatiable appetite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the ornithologist, whom I have before mentioned, told me he was encamped out for several days, some miles from Fort William, attending to the business of his profession ; and that in addition to collecting birds, he had collected rare specimens of reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits. Several days after lie was in this encampment, be went to his keg to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits gone. Mr. Townsend, know- ing that Thornburgh had been several times loitering about, charged him with having drank off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst as an apology.

The White hunters employed by the American Company are mostly adventurers, (to use no stronger term,) whose wild spirits having exhausted their means and driven them from society, turn trappers, as an exciting pursuit and a last resource. In this vocation, hardship, exposure, and riot, with the casualties of brawls and Indians, soon finish them. According to Mr. PARKER, three years in either service is about the average duration of life with the majority of these trappers. But of the general manage- ment of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the people in their employ, he speaks in much higher terms than he does of the American.

The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company are worthy of com- mendation for their good treatment of the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship and confidence, sad also fur the efforts which some few of them

have made to instruct those about them in the first principles of our 17...lasi gion ; especially in regard to equity, humanity, and morality. Thi, e,;'y is of long standing, have become rich in the fur.trade, and they inte5et7a„,;Y petuate the business; therefore they commit the prosperity of the Ind'" ,r-T. intimately connected with their own. I have not heard as yet of a sj 1,1,'" stance of any Indians being wantonly killed by any of the men belong;a:rn ,T1 company. Nor have I heard any boasting among them of the satisfaes.° '"" ton taw,

in killing or abusing Indians, as I have elsewhere heard.

FORT VANCOUVER.

I am very agreeably situated in this place. Half of a new house is ar, me, well furnished, and all the attendance which I could wish, with tislele°„-; as many valuable books as I have time to read, and opportunities to ride for exercise, and to see the adjoining country, as I can desire; and is additt to all these, and still more valuable, the society of gentlemen enlighte,„A- polished, anti sociable. These comforts and privileges were not auticipalea," and therefore the more grateful. There is a school connected with this establishment, for the benefit of the children of the traders and common labourers, some of whom are oepbu. whose parents were attached to the company ; and also some Indian shack; who are provided for by the generosity of the resident gentlemen. They ei,;. instructed in the common branches of the English language, such as readine writing, arithmetic, grammar, and geography ; and together waintdh develop, excellent them, in which they labour. Finding them deficient in sacred music, 1 in. eructed them in singing; in which they made good proficiency, religion and morality,. The exercises of the school are closed with Magian hymn ; after which, they are taken by their teachers to a garden usigaa excellent voices. Among them there was one Indian boy who had the nue flexible and melodious voice I ever heard.

It is worthy of notice how little of the Indian complexion is seen in the halj.

breed children. Generally they have fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The children of the school were punctual in fink atteudanee ea the three services of the Sabbath, arid were our choir.

The extraordinary skill of the Indian horseman, and their power over their horse, have been often noted. See how they acquire these.

Small children, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and gere. rally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep them from falling, and especially when they go asleep, which they often do when they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horse's shoulders; and when they awake, they lay hold of their whip, which is fasteued to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their horses ; and it is astonishiug to see how these little creatures will guide and run them.

Of the capability of the Indians for acquiritoe the arts of chili-

zation, Mr. PARKER speaks undoubtingly and facts in a mea- sure support his conclusions. Still, if Christianity, humanity, and U just government went hand in hand, when their country hecaras more densely peopled, they would in amalgamating become al). sorbed, and the race be as effectually extinguished as if destroyed. Of their disposition to embrace Christianity, Mr. PARKER is as sanguine as most missionaries who make the first attempts. Allowing, however, for the politeness of the American Indian— the natural curiosity of an idle and imaginative people—a notion they seem to have taken up that Christianity would raise them to a level with the Whites—and the difficulty of mutual understand- ing when the sermon and its results have to be conveyed by inter- preters—we can scarcely fall in with Mr. PARKER'S sanguine an- ticipations. In the following interview with a party of chiefs at Rendezvous, for instance, there appears full as much of diplomacy as anxiety. The "oldest chief of the Flatheads" seems to us to have been any thing but a flat in the art of uttering polite double meanings.

After spending a few days in collecting and digestina information in regard to this country and the condition of the people, we hatl an intelesting interview with the chiefs of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid before them the object of our appointment, and explained to them the benevolent desires of Christians concerning them. We then inquired whether they wished to have teaches come among them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his worship, and the way to be saved ; and what they would do to aid them in their labours? The oldest chief of the Flatheads arose, and said he was old, and did not expect to know much more; he was deaf and could not hear, but his heart Was made glad, very glad, to see what he had never seen before, a man near to God, (meaning a minister of the gospel.) Next arose Ineala, the most influential chief among the Flathead nation, and said, he had heard a man near to God was coming to visit them ; and he, with some of his people joined with some White men, went out three days' journey to meet him, but missed us. A war party of Crow Indians came upon them, and took away some of their horses, and one front him which he greatly loved ; but now he forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near to God. There was a short battle, but no hoes lust.

The first chief of the Net Perces, Tai.quin-watish, arose and said, he had heard from White men a little about God, which hail only gone into his earl; he wished to know enough to have it go down into his heart, to iufluence hit life, and to teach his people. Others spoke to the same import; and they ell made is many promises as we could desire.

When-practice was enjoined, it was not always smooth.

Durinz my continuance in this place, (Walla Walla,) I preached on the Sabbath,.to the White people belonging to the fort in the morning, and in the afternoon to the Indians ot the Cayuse, Walla Walla, and Nez Peree tribes; aniralm improved other opportunities with the Indians besides on the Sabbath. They always gave good attention, and some appear to be much interested. An instance of opposition to the truths of the Gospel, however, occurred hews proving the truth of the Scriptures, that the Saviour is set for the fall arid risiug of those who hear. A chief of the Cayman, who several times came to hear, disliked what was said about a plurality of wives. He said he would not part with any of his; for be had always lived in sin, and was going to the place of burning, and it was too late for him, now he was getting old, to repeat and be saved; and, as he must go to that place, he would go in all his sins, and would not alter his life. Those who are familiar with the various methods to which sinners resort to avoid the convictions of truth and conscience, may tee in his deep-rooted hatred to holiness, that the operation of sin is the same in every unsanctified heart.

Turning from this subject, here is a curious fact for the geolo- gists.

lief: this encampment at nine o'clock in the forenoon, in the canoe with three men furnished by Tilla ; and made good piogress down the river (Columbia), which flows in a wide and gentle current. Many puts of the way the river II walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the La Dalles commences country, which beconiea more and more dense as we descend, andmuore esed bias!, with high hills and pit cipices. Noticed a remarkable plicenomenem—trees gentling in their natural position in the river, in many places where the water ii yfee deep, or much more, and rising to high or freshet water.mark, fifteten feet above the low water. Above the freshet rise, the tops of the tier' decayed and gone.

I deferred forming an opinion in regard to are the cause, until Ishould collect more data. On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the fore part of the day,

did not leave my encampment until noon ; when we set forward and arrived 3the Cascades at two o'clock in the afternoon. The trees tceday were still 00 -re Pulverous, in many places standing_ in deep water ; and we had to pick our way our canoe In some parts as through a forest. The water of this river r w iew: an clear, that I had an opportunity of examining their position down to their spreading roots, and found them in the same condition as when standing in their natural forest. As I approached the Cascades, instead of finding an embankment formed from volcanic eruptions, the shores above the falls were low, and the velocity of the water began tn accelerate two-thirds of as mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it is plainly evident that here hie seen an uncommon subsidence of a tract of land more than twenty miles in length and more than a mile in width. The trees standing in the water are found mostly towards and near the north shore; and yet, from the depth of the river and its sluggish movement, I should conclude the subsidence affected the whole bed. That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low-water-mark, proves that the subsidence is comparatively of recent date ; and their undis- turbed natural position proves that it took place in a tranquil manner, not by any tremendous convulsion of nature. The cause lies concealed, but the fact is plain. That parts of forest may in this way submerge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on the Eastern coast of Yorkshire anti Lincolnshire, Eng- land, is about fifteen feet below low-water-mark, extending eastward a cons'. derable distance from the shore, of which stumps and roots are seen in their natural position.

Much having been lately said, and we believe with truth, about the depopulation 01 Indian races by contact with Europeans, it is but fair to show that it may occasionally arise from natural causes.

have found the Indian population in the lower country—that is, below the falls of the Colurnbia—firr less than I had expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made their tour. Since the year 1S:29, probably seven-eighths, if not, as Dr. 51.1.aughlin believe, nine.tentlis, have been swept away by disease, principally by fever and ague. The malignancy of this disease rosy have been increased by predisposing cart-i's, such as intemperance, and the general spread of venerea since thew intercourse with sailors. But a more direct cause of the great mortality, was their made of treatment. In the burning stage of' the freer they plunged thenmIres in the rut r, and continued in the water until the heat was allayed, and rarely sure-iced the cold stage which .falowed. So many and so sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed with the unburied dead. Whole and large villages were depopulated ; and souse entire tribes have disappeared, the few remaining persons, if there were any, uniting themselves with other tribes. This great mortality extended not only from the vicinity of the Cascades to the shores of the Pacific, but for North and South ; iris said as far South as California. The fever and ague were never known before the year 1529; and Dr. APLaughlin mentioned it as a sin- gular circumstance, that this was the year iu which fields were ploughed for the first time. He thought there must have been some connexion between breaking up the soil and the fever. I informed him that the same fever pre- vailed in the United States about the same time, and in places which had not before been subject to the complaint. 'The mortality, after one or two seasons, abated, partly for the want of atihjects, anti partly from medical assistance ob- tained at the hospital of Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians anti their sufferings under diseases are far greater than they would be if they were fur- niehed with a knowledge of medicine. Indian doctors are only Indian con- jurors.

A TARTY AT TilE sANDtvicil ISLANDS.

The king, Queen Regent, and chief gave a tea-party, to which with a few others I had the honour to be invited. They were dressed richly and in good taste; their table was spleedidly arrayed with silver plate and china ; the en tertainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and prepared, anti all the etiquette and ceremony of such occasions was observed. The conversation was cheerful and intelligent, without frivolity ; and nothing occurred embarrass- ing to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were invited into a saloon well- furnished, where, after a performance of music, oth vocal and instrumental, the Queen proposed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visis ; which was done, and the company retired. I have seen but few parties in Christian America conducted more on the principles of rationality and religion.

A RUSSELL AT TIIE sANDWICII ISLANDS.

In fair and honourable negotiations, regard is had to mutual rights ; but here foreigners assume the style of dictittion—" You shall, 3ud you shall not and assertions are made of things existing in the laws and practices of England sad America, which neither Government would tolerate. Lord Russell, the commander of the Ammon, a British man-of-war, obtained the signature to a certain instrument, by assuring the Hawaiian Government, that if they re- fused any longer to sign it, he would order all the English vessels to leave the harbour, and request all the American shipping to withdraw ; and then bring his armed ship before their fort, and batter down the walls and prostrate their village. The King signed the instrument ; and then he, together with the Queen arid chiefs like some other peuple who feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, hail only the par resort oh' a public remonstrance. They re cordingly sent a remonstrance to the King of Great Britain ; ini.sthich they say, that " on account of their urging us so strongly, on account "IA paid com- manders assuring us that their communication was from the King, and on ac- count of their making preparation to fire upon us, therefore we gave'our assent to the writing, without our being willing to give our real approbation, few we were not pleased with it." They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and therefore submit to indignities kom which their feelings revolt.