NOT ONLY was it St George's feast day on 23
April but the powers that be added Shakespeare's birthday and World Book Day. I took part in the latter, riding in a Harrods bus from bookshop to bookshop with lots of authors, to sign books along the way. Luckily I had George Melly as my companion most of the time and was enter- tained throughout by his blues and vaudeville songs. He was a great joy to be with, dressed in a magnificent purple suit and pheasant-feather hat, much admired by all. On the other hand, I didn't see one red rose all day. Poor St George! This week we have St Peter Chanel, clubbed to death like a seal in the New Hebrides by Niuliki, the island chief, when he discovered his son had converted; Catherine of Siena; Sigis- mund of Burgundy, who strangled his son in a fit of temper, later atoned for his sin by good works and was finally executed and flung down a well by the sons of Clovis, King of the Franks. Such exciting lives.
To continue the theme of penitents, I have a fascinating receipt from David Batchelor, one of two brothers, both of whom cook a treat. It comes from the mediaeval town of Peillon near Nice where the penitents blancs — white-robed pilgrims — used to come on foot to the chapel and, I suppose, were given a slice to sustain them.
Tourton des penitents
2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions 1 garlic clove, chopped olive oil
11/2 lbs spinach leaves
4 tablespoons pine kernels 4 tablespoons finely chopped chives 1 tablespoon each finely chopped basil or mint, savory, thyme, chervil 3 large eggs 3 tablespoons crème fraiche 5 oz gruyere, grated salt and freshly ground black pepper
Blanch the spinach leaves in boiling water for half a minute. Drain and squeeze out the water very well, and when cool chop finely. Cook the spring onions and garlic in a little olive oil until softened. Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl, except the eggs, cream and cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste, remembering that the cheese will be salty. Use a non- stick frying-pan (about 10 inches), oil it well with olive oil, pour in the spinach mixture and cook for about five minutes over a high heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from `We'd like to go somewhere that's a real dump.' the heat and drain off any liquid there might be. Beat the eggs, cream and cheese together in the large bowl, add the spinach mixture and combine. Oil the frying-pan again, pour the mixture back into it and cook over a slow to medium heat, pressing it down with a wooden spoon, for 10-15 minutes. When the bottom side is nicely browned, cover the pan with an upturned plate or board and tip the tourton onto it by turning it upside down, then slip it back into the pan to cook the other side. Cook until sizzling and brown and serve on hot plates with a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce, freshly made. Enough for four to six, depending on whether it is a starter or main course. Cut in wedges.
Fresh tomato sauce
olive oil 21/2 lbs very ripe tomatoes, diced
1 onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon sugar bouquet garni of thyme, bay and rosemary salt and freshly ground black pepper
At a pinch you can use tinned tomatoes, better than some of the tasteless offerings found in the super-markets. A tip from an Italian friend: when buying tinned toma- toes in some good Italian delicatessen, look at the label to find out whether the produce comes from south of Rome — the flavour is better.
Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan, place all the ingredients therein except the salt and pepper and cook for 15 minutes until soft. Sieve through a mouli, return to the pan and simmer for 30-40 minutes uncovered, until you get a nice thick sauce. Give it the odd stir now and then to make sure it is not sticking to the pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you don't use it all, keep it in jars, topped with a little olive oil, and store in the refrig- erator.
I am very fond of hot cucumber and Michael Smith and am delighted that Serif have reprinted his Fine English Cookery in paperback. Here is his
Regalia of cucumbers Peel a cucumber, cut it in half lengthways and deseed with a teaspoon. Cut into 1/4- inch slices. Finely slice 1 small onion. Melt 1 oz butter in a pan. Add the onion and a crushed clove of garlic and cook covered until soft. Add the cucumber and toss light- ly over a low heat for three minutes. Add 1/2 pint of single cream and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook until heated through, but do not overcook — it should be crisp. Sprinkle with two tablespoons each of chopped chives and parsley.
Seasonal Receipts, Jennifer Paterson's new book, is available from 19 May, for £15.99 post-free from The Spectator bookshop, 24 Seward Street, London EC1V 3GB. Or ring 0541 557 288, fax 0541 557 222. Please quote ref SP032 when ordering.
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