A LETTER FROM ICELAND.
[To the Editor of the SPECTATOR.] SIR,—Perhaps no country has ever been so completely misunderstood as Iceland continues to be. Geographically, climatically and socially, Iceland is the constant victim of misrepresentation. She is slighted and even maligned. Only a minute portion of the island is in the Arctic. Last winter was my third here, but never have I found it necessary to go more warmly clad than in England. The cold, though greater, is somehow far less penetrating than are the lower temperatures at home. A comparison between the general culture of Iceland and that of other European countries will seldom, if ever, be to the detriment of Iceland. Here we retain handicrafts while adopting a certain amount of machinery ; we teach all children to reverence books ; and the true artist is in great measure relieved of sordid cares.
In the matter of sport too we are misunderstood. It is popularly supposed that at the end of the salmon-killing season there is no more to be done in this country, yet for those who demand neither peptonized athletics nor a vast audience to witness their deeds of prowess, Iceland offers a fine field, not merely for wonted amusements but for much that will be found novel. Last winter there were many wonderful moonlight nights of skating on the Reykjavik lake. Two years ago a party of four intrepid young men came practically across the island on ski, their journey being in part through absolutely unknown country. This, however, is a type of adventure not to be recommended to all, for upon one stage of their route they found themselves unable to stop for some hours, so strong was the wind. Another form of sport, generally unknown but capable of casting a peculiar glamour over its votaries, is ice Tiding. The sure- footedness of the Iceland pony is well known. Fit his shoes with spikes and you may with safety put him through all his paces upon the surface of a frozen river, sometimes riding for many miles without a turn.
For those whose energy has not been entirely exhausted by the day's doings dancing may have some attraction. In Reykjavlk one finds good music, all the modern dances, excellent floors and no lack of charming partners, many of whom are fluent not only in English but in two or three other languages. Many young people here chatter very pleasantly in Icelandic, English, Danish and German.
As a people, Icelanders are, indeed, extremely well educated in international affairs, and the Englishman here may be told some astonishing truths concerning his own land. How many Englishmen know that the army of their country was once led to victory by two Icelanders ? Or how many are aware that scarcely a century ago a prisoner of war, escaping from England, made himself King of Iceland and actually ruled for a few weeks—until in fact one of England's war- ships arrived and " His Majesty's " arrest was effected ?
The 1927 Summer Season promises to be a particularly good one so far as one may judge from prospective tourists' inquiries and the definite arrangements already made in the beginning of June. The country is looking very beautiful in its summer garb, and although in Reykjavik we cannot with strict accuracy claim the Midnight Sun, for the next five or six weeks it will hardly be an exaggeration to speak of midnight sunsets, wonderful spectacles which are only to be matched perhaps by our Iceland sunrises. At these times the wonderful light and shade, the savage grandeur and the freakish shapes of mountain and rock, together with the smiling beauty of the sage-green valleys, often prompt the question, " Why do so few artists visit Iceland ? " This is an even greater puzzle when one comes to understand the artistic mentality of the people. Every painter and every sculptor who is artist enough to have remained a student can learn much in Iceland.
For those seismographically inclined the traces of last October's earthquake will prove interesting. This disturbance at Reykjanes not only put out the light but also seriously damaged the lighthouse building, diverted some of the hot springs from their usual beds and set others spouting. Now, however, matters appear to be reverting to former conditions, though the temporary watercourses can be traced and some fissures remain. The work of repairing the lighthouse is not yet complete, as subsequent movements made it impossible to commence operations until recently.
Among the notable changes this year one sees that lawn tennis has received a great impulse. We have grass courts and hard courts, but not yet any indoor tennis ground, the covered court being unknown.
. Reykjavik has some twenty-two thousand regular inhabit- ants, so that the prospect of no fewer than four string bands in the coming season is a little alarming. Of these bands it is said that two will perform at hotels, one at a restaurant and the fourth at a cinema house. One orchestra, which has been here all through the winter, is composed of young men who may certainly be described as artists. The picture house alluded to has just been built and is to take the place of one of the two already in operation.--:-I am, Sir, &c., YOUR CORRESPONDENT IN ICELAND.
Previous page
