SPECTATOR MINI-BAROFFER
SIMON HOGGART
Amini-bar for the connoisseur this month. Corsican wines are greatly prized, and for that reason rarely leave the island.
It’s most unusual to find them here, though Jason Yapp, who has recently taken over the running of Yapp Bros, the firm his father founded, has obtained some parcels which he is offering to Spectator readers. They are subtle, aromatic, beautifully balanced, and bring the thyme and lavender scent of the maquis, or scrub, that Napoleon — Corsica’s most famous son — claimed he could smell from Elba.
The first three wines come from Sartène, which is generally reckoned to make the best wine on the island. The town itself was the home of a vendetta, vicious even by Corsican standards; in modern times a communist mayor forbad the destruction of the mediaeval centre, which makes it an attractive-looking town, though the Rough Guide talks about Sartène’s ‘implacable ambience’.
There is nothing implacable, however, about the wines. These three are from the excellent Domaine Saparale, and are made by Philippe Farinelli. The Blanc 20041 comes from local grape varieties, and brings along gorgeous citrus and herb flavours. Perfect with summer salads, seafood, or as an outdoor aperitif.
As is the rosé, 20042. Corsica specialises in rosé wines, which make up about 30 per cent of its production. This is another lovely summer wine, a pale pink ‘vin gris’ whose colour might mislead, since there is nothing wan or fey about the taste. The red grapes are left in contact with the juice just overnight, giving the wine extra body and flavour.
The Rouge 20033 is a smash ing fat wine, full of cherry and plum flavours. It is drinking very well now, but you could easily keep it for a few years, when it will be even smoother and fuller. Excellent with chicken, roast meat or pasta dishes.
Finally, from Domaine de Torraccia, just above Porto Vecchio, only 20 miles away but on the other side of the island, comes the Cuvée Oriu 20014 made by Christian Imbert and his son Marc, who worked at Château Latour and in California. This too is made from local grapes, Nielluccio and 20 per cent Sciacerello, and it’s reckoned one of Corsica’s very best. (An ‘oriu’ was a cache in a cave, where bandits hid money and weapons.) Sotheby’s New Wine Encyclopaedia talks about the ‘lovely, dense fruit flavours, with a slightly smoky, sweettobacco complexity’, and I heartily agree.
Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a discounted sample case. Furthermore, the first 50 readers to order will receive a free copy of the Rough Guide to Corsica, signed by the author, David Abram.��
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