uran.A.v's HANDBOOKS. PALESTINE AND SYRIA— KENT AND SUSSEX.* TIEE popularity
of Murray's Handbooks arises from a variety of circumstances, liberality, judgment, and method being the chief A Ifandbook for Travellers in Syria and Palestine' including an Account of his Geography, History, Antiquities, and Inhabitants of these Countries, the Pe- ninsula of Sinai, Edom, and the Syrian Desert ; with detailed descriptions of 'tern-
'slam, Petra, Damascus, and Palmyra. Maps and Plans. Parts I. II. Published by Murray. Handbook for Travellers in Kent and Sussex. With Map. Published by Murray.
causes. There is no stint as regards the cost of informa- tion. Guide-books and other works than guidebooks that treat of the region in hand are carefully consulted and skilfully made use of ; but this is merely literary compila- tion, which the practical in " Murray " overrides. The task is entrusted to the best man that can be got, sometimes, as in the case of Ford's description of Spain, of the living man most thoroughly acquainted with the country ; and the ground is often gone over and over for the purpose even of new editions. The choice of subjects has always been judicious ; and their order has a significance, as characteristic of British travel. The modern grand tour led off the series, as the Rhine, France, Italy, Ger- many, Switzerland. Then the roving Englishman was provided with a guide to Malta, the Ionian Islands, Turkey, Greece, Egypt. Then he was led to hyperborean regions, Scandinavia, Russia' Finland. The advantage of such a card as Ford might launch Spain somewhat earlier than would otherwise have been the case, but even Portugal, where you cannot in a modern sense travel at all, from the simple want of roads, preceded we think our own island, except the remoter region of Cornwall and the Land's End. There was method, too, in the conduct of the whole, almost resembling Oken's typical law of animal formation. Practical knowledge of every kind necessary to the tourist was the principal aim, but it was a presented in the form best adapted to the varying circumstances of the case. Syria and Palestine will support or indeed advance the cha- racter of the series, and as was the case with Spain, the work has been intrusted to a man well acquainted with the region to be de- scribed. The name of Porter, the author of Fire Years in Da- mascus, does not appear on the title-page ; but it is clear from in- ternal evidence that he is the writer ; and we think he shows to more advantage than in his earlier work ; his matter having greater solidity, and his style being closer. Of course in a coun- try like Syria, history becomes a more important feature for the traveller than in other regions, except perhaps Greece ; and in the introduction and the particular routes, the associations, both sa- cred and profane, are continually referred to. An elaborate chro- nological table presents a continuous skeleton of history, sug- gesting the outline of what memory may fill up. One index pre- sents the names, ancient and modern, of every ascertained site mentioned in scripture, with a reference to the passages where the name occurs. In another, similar information is contained re- specting those places whose site is doubtful. The arrangement as usual is by "routes," any one of which may be separately pur- sued from its starting point ; but the complete course is of an ex- haustive kind, carrying the tourist over the whole scene of scripture history, if he has energy to make the attempt. As- suming that the intending pilgrim has, in company with his Murray, ascended the Nile and done Egypt in the winter, Mr. Porter begins with Cairo and the requisites for the journey, pro- ceeds across the desert to Sinai, and then conducts the traveller by various excursions through the wilderness to Hebron. From this ancientest of cities, which disputes with Damascus the palm of hoar antiquity, and contains perhaps the oldest and most genuine relics in the world, the pilgrim is carried to Jerusalem. The description of this head quarters of the visitor to the Holy Land is given with great fulness ; and eleven excursions ramify from it, including Jordan, the Dead Sea, and some "routes" that would lead. to Jerusalem more directly and by shorter journevings than by Sinai and the wanderings in the wilderness. -Upwards of twenty " routes " extend from Jerusalem through Northern Pales- tine and to Damascus, embracing among other places Nazareth, Tiberias, Mount Carmel, Tyre, Palmyra, Baalbec, and the Cedars. The last section deals with Northern Syria, and in four short itineraries conducts the traveller to Antioch, Aleppo and various places of lesser account, till the guide finally quits him at Hums, with a few parting hints for the return. Time maps and various plans illustrate the text ; while tables of coins' and notes on the pronunciation and meaning of Arabic words assist the tourist, so far as mere precept can assist him in what requires practice. But judicious arrangement, necessary information skilfully chosen, and directions as to what is to be seen and done in every place that the traveller visits, however useful to him, are hardly of themselves attractive to the stay-at-home reader, or even to the tourist, unless upon the very spot. A spirit of living knowledge, which shall animate the ruins or associations of the past, as well as the descriptions of the actual present, is requisite to make a readable home volume. This spirit is found in Tke Hand-Book of Syria and Palestine, indeed it pervades the book ; though it is more continuously visible in the general introduc- tions, than in stage by stage accounts of particular tours. Here is a hint of patience to the pilgrim, and another on good manners.
"The only exception to the general politeness of the Arabs, (by which name I call all the people of Syria), is lobe found in some bigoted Moslems of the old school (generally confined to the great cities), who have for long centuries confounded the words kafer, kelb, and Nuarany—' infidel," dog,' and Christian' ; and have, consequently, treated them all with the same contempt. The best way to deal with such people is to take no notice of them. They generally satisfy their dignity by muttering a curse, which can do no harm. Travellers should be cautious, in addressing 3fuslems2 no to offend their prejudices. For example—the salutation, Salaam 'aleikum„ 'Peace be upon you,' should never be used by a Christian in Saluting! Muslem : it is the distinguishing salutation of thefaithful,' who alone claim the right of invoking peace on others. For the kafer to invoke peace on the ' believer ' is an insult; so at least the Muslems argue, and it is useless to contradict them. A polite Christian, even when a Mus- laza honours him with the above salutation, will not return the otherwise uniform answer, Aleikum es-salam, Upon you be peace; 'but will employ some other phrase, so as to avoid even the semblance of offence. By keep- ,Ing in mind these few remarks, and setting them down as the peculiarities of the country, which strangers will observe if they would not be thought vulgar and ignorant, the traveller or occasional resident may smooth his way and secure respect.' - The politeness of the Arabs, which Mr. Porter so praises, does not seem to arise from the best foundation, kindness of heart, good feeling, or even good nature. Its character is ceremonial, and really seems a plan of empty people to pass away time, and sup- ply the want of matter for conversation. The most barbarous of mankind, the Aborigines of Australia, are very formal and cere- monious in their way ; and even in civilized communities, we think the country population will be found the most precisely polite, according to their notions of politeness. As people get more occupied, they can no more "waste tune" over the minute inquiries described in the following extract, than they can go through the tedious formalities of Oriental bargaining. "The farther we go from the contaminated atmosphere of government offices, the more successful shall we be in our search after honesty, industry, and genuine patriarchal hospitality—the great, almost the only unadul- terated virtue of the Arab. They are illiterate, of course, and extremely ignorant of all Frank inventions ; but still there is a native dignity in their address and deportment, which will both please and astonish those who have seen the awkward vulgarity of the lower classes in some more favoured lands. Whether we enter the tent of the Bedawy or the cottage of the fellah, we are received and welcomed with an ease and courtesy that would not disgrace a palace. The modes of salutation are very formal—perhaps some would ftll them verbose and even tedious. One is apt to imagine, on hearing the long series of reiterated inquiries after the health, happiness, and prosperity of the visitor who drops in, and the evasive replies given, that there is surely some hidden grief, some secret malady, which his politeness would fain con- Seal, but -which the heartfelt sympathy of the host constrains him to search Into. It is disappointing to discover, as every one will in time discover., Anst this is all form ; and that the thousand and one' keif, ketfaks ? and fug khateraks ? and keif hat suhhetak 4? and inshallah malauts ? and the equally numerous, but not very satisfactory responses of, Ullah yussallemak,, Uilahrissallent khaterak, Ullah yahfuzak, Malt yetatrwel 'untrak—are all phrases which mean nothing, so far as the feelings of those who use them are concerned. Still there is something pleasing in those inquiries, compli- ments, and good wishes, empty though they be. The gestures used in saluta- tion are also graceful, if a little complicated. The touching of the heart, the lips and 'the forehead with the right hand, seems to say that each one thus saluted is cherished in the heart, praised with the lips, and esteemed with the intellect. When peculiar deference and respect are intended to be shown, the right hand is first lowered almost to the ground, as a proof that the individual would honour your very feet, or the soil you tread. A still greater difference is implied in kissing the hand; and the greatest of all is kissing the feet. These latter, however, it is just as dignified for travellers firmly, but courteously, to resist. • "In making .purchases from an Arab, his politeness is almost amazing. When the price is asked, he replies, Whatever you please, my lord.' When pressed for a more definite answer' he says, 'Take it without money.' One cannot but remember, under such circumstances, Abraham's treaty with the BOW of Meth for the cave of Machpelah (Gen. xxiii.). Our feelings of ro- mance, however, are somewhat damped when we find that the price ulti- ittately demanded is four or five times the value of the article. An Arab always tells you that his house is yours his property is yours, he himself is your slave ; that he loves you with all lids heart, would defend you with his life, ece. tn. This all sounds very pretty, but it will be just as well not to rely too much on it for fear of disappointment. Nothing, however, is lost by politeness; and so one may seem to believe all that is said, and even utter an occasional Ullah yetawtcel 'umrak id sidy, 'may God prolong your life, 0 my lord !' by way of showing gratitude. The Arabs are most profuse in the use of titles. Every beggar will address his fellow with 0 my lord !' ya sidy (pronounced seedy), or Your excellency,' jenabak ; while the tra- veller is generally saadatak, 'Your highness.'"
The cedars of Lebanon have been often described ; the oak at Hebron is not so hacknied, and may be taken as a specimen of Mr. Porter's guide-book specialty.
"There is another object in Hebron worthy of a visit—Abraham's Oak (so called). Leaving the town, we proceed northward up the valley through groves of noble olives, and in about twenty-five minutes we reach the oak- Sindian or Ballet in Arabic. It stands quite alone in the midst of vine- • yards ; the ground is smooth and clean beneath it, and close by is a well of pure water, so that it is one of the sweetest spots around the town for a tem- porary encampment. The only drawback is, that it is a little too far dis- tant for such as can only remain a short time. This splendid tree measures tstenty-three feet round the lower part of the trunk, and its foliage covers a apace nearly ninety feet in diameter. Though evidently of great age, it is still sound and flourishing ; and there are few trees to be compared with it for sise and appearance in Syria. The great plane-tree of Damascus is nearly double its girth—forty feet; but it has suffered much, both from the hand of man and the tooth of time. Several of the cedars are also larger, though, being grouped together, they do not show to such advantage. This, say some, is the veritable tree beneath whose shade Abraham pitched his tent ; while others affirm that it was beneath its spreading branches the Roman soldiers sold the captive Jews taken at Bether. It is scarcely necessary to erg that neither of these views is tenable. The tree has no marks of such high antiquity, nor is there any early written testimony to give probability to the theory. Abraham's oak is said by Josephus ;to have been six stadia from Hebron and Eusebius states that it existed in his day, and was wor- shipped by the people of the country, because beneath it an angel had been tmtertained. Jerome, however, affirms that in the time of Constantine (circa A.D. 330) a Christian church was erected on the spot whereit had stood, and of this Eusebius himself gives an account in his 'Life of Constantine,' The oak,' therefore, (or terebinth,' as some call it,) disappeared about the year 330. Maundeville' as usual, tells a marvellous legend about it, how it was once green, and how it dried up at the time of our Lord's death, - und-eontinued so ever after ; but, he adds, Although it be dry, still it has great virtue ; for certainly he that hath a little thereof upon him it heals him of the falling evil, and his horse shall not be afoundered.' If the gal- lant knight saw a tree at all, it could not have been this one. "But though we have no ancient record of this venerable tree, we cannot bet recognize it as a representative of the oaks of Mamre, under whose shade Abraham communed with his Creator and received angels as guests. It is the last tree of that sacred forest, and, as such, all honour to its noble stem and wide-spreading boughs !"
It is a maxim among the great canonical writers on critioisra, that it is more difficult to produce an effect from familiar than remote subjects. This may arise from knowledge rendejjz people more acute and exacting, or from habit causing the th to be stale. At all events the rule receives an illustration f The Handbook of _Kent and Sussex. It is not that the vlb shows any deficiency in clearness of arrangement, paucity ie general distribution of the tours, or in industry, or akjj The first excursion in Kent, takes us down the Thames ; the se- cond along the line of the old coach road, but by the North gent Railway to Stroud and Rochester. There, as a sort of head-qast. ters, the tourist may start on some smaller tours, including the we of Sheppey. The fourth route goes to Canterbury from Rochester the fifth to Maidstone from Stroud by the new rail along 01;3 banks of the Medway. For a new departure we return to Londe), using the Mid Kent line as a means of reaching Seven Oaks, sut. rounded by the country show places ; and so we go on through the remainder of the county, and Sussex in like manner. The seats, the churches, the antiquities, the leading prospects are noted, as well as the means of reaching them, and the inns are mentMned, though not systematically ; or, perhaps, considering the class of persons who may make excursions along its various routes with sufficient fulness. Still this handbook wants a certain freshness. Strange to say it seems more indebted to previous books than guides to places much further from home. We are not sure, Isx, but that tracts of country are too slightly passed over, when, as we intimated of inns, many people may use this book as a guide to a day's run or a few days' tour who cannot compass foreign travel. It may be said, however, that such information would. greatly extend the size of the volume and is more properly to he sought for in special guides.
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