SIMON HOGGART
F or English vintners, 2003 was the annus mirabilis. English wine has been steadily improving for decades now — long since a vigneron in Cognac could tell me, 'Yurr English wine, it tastes of rain.. But the fierce, constant heat of last summer meant that many growers could produce their finest wines ever. So I thought it would be fun to offer some of the fabled 2003 vintage, plus a couple of other wines which are perfect for drinking during what we hope will now be a sunny few months.
They all come from one of our most adventurous vineyards, Three Choirs near Gloucester, which has been winning awards all over the place, often against competition from abroad. English wines are no longer just a curiosity, still less a joke — they have a distinctive style, and crisp floral flavours which are delicious, if rather different from what most of us are used to. I think you will find these very well worth trying. Tom Shaw of Three Choirs has knocked a generous 10 per cent off his list prices.
The Willow Brook 2003(') is made from two hybrid grapes, Schtinburger and Siegerrebe. The latter, 25 per cent, is itself half Gewfirztraminer, and brings some of that spiciness to the more floral perfume of the other grape. Very dry, perfect as an aper itif or with fish, chicken and salads. Excellent value, I think, at £4.49.
Siegerrebe is on its own in the Estate Reserve 2003(2), which is even classier: the same spice, the same wild flowers,
but with an extra, scrummy depth of flavour which would be remarkable in any Alsace wine at £6.99, still more in one from our damp little island. The grape can make an exciting sweet wine, but Three Choirs have kept this one dry — though the faint hint of honey makes it all the more pleasing. A very fine wine indeed.
Some people suspect that sparkling wine might be the future for English vineyards, and since we're at the same latitude as Champagne, why ever not? This Classic Cuyee NV(3) is fabulous value at only £6.29. Made from the quintessentially English Seyval, plus 20 per cent Pinot Blanc — the Champagne grape — it is rounded, rich, appley, peary and altogether right for luxurious party drinking.
Finally, the Premium Selection Rosé 2002(a) is a blend of Pinot Noir and Regent, and has a lovely, full savour of strawberries and cherries. Perfect for summer lunch under a shady tree or for watching the last of the golden August sun. Reduced to £5.17. There is also a further discount on the sample case, and delivery as ever is free.
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