BINNING'S TWO YEARS' TRATEL IN CEYLON AND PERSIA. * MR. BINNING

is a Madras official, who has devoted many years to the study of Mahometan languages and literature, and the character of the Mahometans. It was this taste probably that induced him, in 1850, to avail himself of two years' leave of absence on medical certificate to pay a visit to Ceylon, and to make a rather long sojourn in Persia ; having turned householder at the older capitals 'Shiraz and Ispahan, and resided some time at the modern capital Tehran. Of his travels and their results he sent home pretty copious accounts in the form of letters ; which he has been advised by Dr. Duncan Forbes, Professor of Oriental languages in King's College, to publish, owing to the new interest recently excited in regard to Persia. The Doctor also undertook to shape and revise the manuscript, as well as to see it through the press.

The book bears strong testimony to the benefits of residence for the collection of the material of books of travel. Ceylon indeed was no more than the flying trip home tourists pay to France or Rhineland when they can spare the time. Nearly the whole of the tour is superficial, and in substance not very new ; Mr. Binning apparently not being aware of the many excellent works that have been published on the island, for besides Knox he only mentions the somewhat Trollopian sketches of Mr. Sirr and the compilation of Mr. Pridham. Mr. Binning's Indian experience furnishes him with a comparative test of some things that other writers have only spoken of positively. Government is one of these ; for the mere report that Ceylon was to be taken from the Queen's Colonial rule and handed over to the Company caused "no small alarm to the planters and burghers of Ceylon" ; and though an Indian official himself, Mr. Binning admits that "if any such prospect really impended, there would undoubtedly be sufficient cause for apprehension." The climate of the island, though lying nearer the Line, struck him with its greater coolness and healthiness, even in the lowlands ; and he found Newara Ellie actually cold.

"The life led by Europeans in this island differs widely from the mode pursued in India. The superior climate of Ceylon renders superfluous many articles of luxury, which in the other country are considered absolutely necessary. The houses here are small, and the rooms confined and close, in comparison with our large and airy Indian mansions. The servants required are few in number; palanquins are rarely to be seen, and punkahs are not by any means universally employed. Englishmen go to lied at a much later hour here, and do not usually get up for early morning exercise ; but the climate admits of much more exercise being taken during the day, and one is not obliged to shut himself in doors from eight o'clock till sunset, as he must do during the greater part of the year, in the hotter regions of

India. • • • "Servants are tolerably good here. Not being hampered with prejudices, they will do more work than Indian domestics, and have no objections to turn their hands to anything. In saying this much, I do not mean to assert that the Cingalese are an industrious or hardworking race : on the contrary, there are no individuals on earth who have a greater horror of anything like labour ; and they can be got to work only when driven to it by absolute necessity. • "Many of the villages I have passed through lie imbedded in thick woods. This bears evidence to the salubrity of the climate of Ceylon. In India, such places would be perfect hotbeds of jungle-fever."

Even in Persia the great advantages of residence are obvious. The journeys from Bushire to Shiraz, Ispahan, and Tehrin, and back, are often dry or monotonous. The country is for the most part mountainous or else barren or bare' the peasantry having been driven from the neighbourhood of the high-roads to out-of-the-way places on account of the extortion and pillage they were subject to from the passage of troops and men in authority. The pen of Mr. Binning is not very graphic • and indeed, pure description of the most striking scenery soon p;ills upon the reader. The numerous antiquities, including Persepolis, that are found along his route, have been already described, and in a measure depicted by professed antiquarians or draughtsmen, and with greater fulness and elaboration than by Mr. Binning. One thing his Persian travels serve to impress upon the mind—the state of degradation and decay that distinguishes the country. The cultivaters fly from frequented lines of route, to avoid robbery and illusage by persons claiming a little brief authority, giving to the real decline of population an appearance greater than it actually is. The roads and bridges, the palaces and gardens of former rulers, especially of Abbas the Great, are suffered to perish from neglect, or are wantonly destroyed, to be converted to the meanest purposes. The nature of the soil aggravates the evils of fiscal oppression and irregular pillage for the greater part of Persia being arid, can only be cultivated by artificial irrigation; an expensive process, which will only be largely carried out where there is some security for property and life. Facts illustrating these general eon * A Journal of Two Years' Trarel in Persia, Ceylon ?se. By Robert B. M. Binning, Esq., Madras Chi' Service. In two &agues. Pliblished by Allen and Co.

elusions are the burden of Mr. Binning's travels in Persia, rather aggravated than.relieved by the ruins of a remote antiquity.

His sojourn at the two former capitals of Ispahan and Shiraz enable him to exhibit the interiors of Persian houses, and something of Persian modes of living, as well as the manners, character, and religious feelings of the people. In these things he has a general resemblance to previous writers, except that he lays on the shadows more thickly, either from bringing the Persians to a sterner test, or that they have latterly degenerated. The pleasantness of their manners he admits, but he ascribes it to hypocrisy : they are trained to courtesy, flattery, and doing the agreeable to equals and superiors ; but their politeness does not extend to inferiors. Of their moral character he gives the worst accounts possible; painting them as devoid of principle, utterly without truth, and insensible to shame or disgrace,—though the disgrace he is speaking of, public punishment, may partly arise from the fact at innocence is just as likely to be punished as guilt. It seems difficult to imagine a greater liar than a Hindoo, but a Persian excels him, not in disregard of truth, but in plausible dexterity—the Hindoo is a bungler, the Persian an artist. According to Mr. Binning, a large number of the Persians are not so liberal in religious matters as has been supposed, or they have become more bigoted than they were. There is, no doubt, a great deal of actual infidelity in Persia, and a great deal of indifference. The Shees.hs, the established sot in Persia, are fond of theological discussion. They will not only bear religious opposition, but even attacks upon the Koran ; whereas the Soonnees, whether Turks, Arabs, or natives of Hindostan, are averse to any discussion, thinking humble faith the proper characteristic of a religious mind. The mass of the Persians are now the tools of the Moolahs ; and though they may appear tolerant, they are inwardly bigoted, but probably in a Spanish way, as muoli national as religious. The facts, however, scarcely: support the author's conclusions. A Christian stranger in Persia is free from molestation by the populace ; and though in towns this may arise from fear of the Government, such a cause would not produce willing and native courtesy.

"The Persian peasantry I have always found remarkably civil and obliging. Whenever I have inspected their fields and gardens, and desired information regarding their agricultural operations and such matters—as I have been in the habit of doing very frequently—I have invariably experienced much courtesy, and a willing readiness to show and explain to me everything I wished. This is the more worthy of note, as such rs not usually the conduct of peasants in most other parts of the world. The higher classes, particularly such as hold situations of any importance under Government, are on the other hand, notwithstanding the boasted urbanity of Pecan, by no means disposed to be courteous or obliging to any one to whom they dare exhibit a different style of demeanour. In the presence of their superiors, or in any case where their interest demands it, they can be deferential and polite to a servile degree; but otherwise they generally comport themselves like true jacks-in-office, in an insolent and overbearing manner, presuming and taking liberties as far as they can venture with impunity. Their arrogance is, however, easily checked ; for it is mere bluster and vapouring, without any firmness of purpose. The kindly and civil disposition of the poorer classes induces one to regret the more the miserable state of despotism and wickedness in which they are trained up. With a good religion, and under a good government, they would be excellent people.'

Mr. Binning conceives that Persia possesses no real power to injure any state. But for the insidious designs of Russia upon our Eastern dominions,—which, without the cooperation of Persia either subdued or nominally independent, would be futile —he considers the true policy would be neglect of the Court of Tebrin. "The importance of the maintenance of a favourable feeling towards Britain, in this country, as connected with the safety of our Indian empire, in preventing any cooperation of Persia with Russia, has been much debated, both at home and abroad. This is, probably, the only reason why England should care to maintain a friendly alliance with the Shah : for in every other respect I cannot see how it could signify a straw to us, whether the terms we are on with a state so insignificant, worthless, and in every way contemptible as Persia, are good, bad, or indifferent."

The corruption which pervades every part of the Government, and indeed of society in general—the disordered state of the finances—the luxury of the Court, which swallows up all the available money, leaving the army without pay and without equipments--render the power of Persia practically nil. The late conquest of Herat, and, the front exhibited at Bushire, seem rather to modify this estimate,—unless Russian loans and. Russian military assistance were at work, as is not linlikely.

Except at Tehrein Mr. Binning derived no aid from official influence ; living at Ispahan. and Shiraz as any foreigner might do who took a house in England. This, as he intimates may have enabled him to see the worser aspects of the national character more distinctly than men who represented sovereign power, were attended by guards, and scattered presents right and left. The information he gathered from this position forms the best part of the book. His knowledge of Persian was another advantage, without which residence would have been of no avail. The language enabled him to mingle with people on the road, and to pick up information from or observe the traits of casual companions. Here is a descendant of the Prophet puzzled about England.

"In the evening, a Seiyid arrived, on his way from Sheerauz to Yezd, and thought fit to honour me with his company in my cell, [of the caravansary,] where we had two or three hours' conversation together, while partaking of tea. He was a loquacious silly fallow' and having met with some Englishmen at Tabreez, some time previous, he had picked up sundry scraps of information about England and Europe, and considered lumself particularly knowing. I found it no easy task to answer his questions which were exceedingly numerous, and net seldom abundantly foolish. He could by no means understand how our Queen's husband had nothing to do with the government of the kingdom and affairs of state ; and wished to know whether, in the event of her getting tired of his company, she could not put him to death, or divorce him, and take to herself another lord? He had heard that the English, some years ago, emancipated all their black slaves, and was curious to know why this was done, and what amount of compensation their Government paid to the owners of these slaves : but when I informed him that this measure had been adopted through a spirit of philanthropy and Christian charity, and that the sum paid amounted to twenty millions of our money, or considerably more than forty thousand thousands of tomfins, he sat silent for a while, looking puzzled, and evidently considering me a more egregious and barefaced liar than any of his own mendacious countrymen." The chapter on women in Persia is the most real-looking we have met with.

"Though my knowledge of Persian ladies is merely information derived from hearsay,—for I have never had an opportunity of crossing the threshold of a Rename, and probably never should have if I lived here all my life,—I

feel that it is incumbent on me to say something concerning them. Women of the villages, and many of the lower ranks in the towns, have little

scruples at conversing with a stranger, and many even of the middle or more respectable orders are not so shy as might be supposed. The mother and sister of my landlord at Sheerauz often came to my Quarters to talk with me, and generally laid aside their veils ; end when I walked on the roof of the house the women in the neighbouring houses used to come up to stare at me, and were not particular about concealing their faces when no one else was looking on. Ladies of rank are, however, far removed from the ken of ordinary mortal men : abroad they are closely veiled, and sometimes guarded by attendants ; and at home no one of the other sex beholds their

faces, is

save their husbands, fathers,. and young brothers. * * * "'ho life led by Persian ladies listless and indolent, and, to any civilized woman would be insufferably monotonous and insipid. Their duties are the superintendence of household affairs and the care of their children,

and their amusements consist in visiting their female acquaintances and receiving their visits in turn ; witnessing the performance of female dancers,

singers' and story-tellers, playing in the gardens of their houses, smoking, and eating eweetmeats. Some play on the guitar or other instrument, and some are adepts in the arts of needlework and embroidery ; most of them

are skilful cooks and confectioners. * *

"Europeans are mistaken in entertaining the general notion that Oriental wives are mere slaves or pieces of furniture ; that they are ill treated by their liege lords, cooped up in prison-like harems, and denied every liberty and enjoyment. On the contrary, the husband is usually very indulgent to his wife, consults and takes her advice on matters of every description, and is not unfrequently completely ruled by her ; for I am told that the noble

arts of i

henpecking, coaxing, amid worrying, are fully. as well understood and as often practised by ladies n this country as by their fair sisters in any quarter of the globe. To mix in the society of men, and to walk abroad with the face exposed, are indelicacies to which no Eaetern lady would submit: they have no notion how any female of reputable character can allow herself to be stared at by every man she may happen to meet."

The annual revenue of Persia, according to English ideas, is not much for so large and celebrated a country ; it falls short of a million and. a half sterling. Prices, however, are very low, and money goes a long way. Mr. Binning's expenses for a month were \ not quite eight pounds, including house-rent, a, horse, a head' servant, groom, and cook, and luxuries such as ice, but excluding wine and fruit. Ice is used as commonly as in Naples or America, and is wonderfully cheap.

"Ice is much used ; and the cheapness of this luxury enables almost every one to enjoy it. It is brought round in the morning, upon donkies and

mules, and a certain quantity left at each house sufficient for the daily use the family. I get as much as I require at "the rate of a almhee or one

halfpenny per day, and this is usually a large block weighing eight or ten pounds. Not only are all fluids for drinking cooled, but the vessel of the kaleon [pipe] is commonly filled with pounded ice and water."'

This was at Ispahan. These are the prices of main necessaries at Shiraz.

"Mutton sells for 8d. a man of 7i pounds,. and lamb for le. the same quantity. The beet mutton is that of the doombeh or fat-tailed sheep. Beef, which is not held in much estimation by Persians, 6d. a man. Eggs, 6 for a penny. Mrine, La. dd. a man • for liquids of, every kind are sold by weight, not by measure. Inferior kinds of wine may be had for less. Bread, the best sort, fd. a pound, and inferior sorts cheaper. This is considered very dear ; for on account of the failure of rain and the ravages of locusts last year, wheat has risen in price. At present, it sells for 4d. a man ; and barley for lid. ; whereas the ordinary price of indifferent in a favourable season, is 21d. a man, and barley about 2d. Tea, of very different quality, ls. a pound. Lump sugar 6d., and soft sugar, 3d. a pound. Rice 7d. a man. Maust and fresh milk, each about /d. a pound. Clarified butter, 6d. a pound. Fowls full grown, 4d. each, and chickens about 21d. There are no turkeys to be had : this bird is unknown in Persia, with the exception of a very few reared by the English at Bushire' and also, I believe, at Tehren. Firewood id. per man, and charcoal lid. Vegetables of the season, to be had for almost nothing. Grapes, now very dear, as they are nearly finished, 2d. and 3d. per man. Tobacco, the best sort, 6d. the pound ; inferior sorts lid. and 2d. Barley for horses, 3d. and 31d. a man, and straw lid.; both considered dear. Tallow candles, about id each, and wax not to be had." The apparent object of Mr. Binning in taking so singular a journey for the restoration of his health was as already intimated, to pursue the study of the Mahometan. character. He has now done with that subject, as well as Persia, so far as his own inclinations are concerned.

"A partiality for Mahomedan languages and literature induced me during a period of several years to cultivate the acquaintance and to see more of the character of Moslems than my countrymen would generally care to investigate. I am now tired of the pursuit, and I do not hesitate to declare my conviction, that in the Mahomedan character there is upon the whole something to admire certainly, but a good deal to pity or despise, as

one may feel inclined, and not a little to abhor and detest. * • •

"After my own experience, my advice to any one about to travel in Persia would be briefly this—go somewhere else, or stay at home ; for, after all, even if this beggarly wilderness of a country were easier of access than it is, and travel in it more convenient and expeditious, there is really very little to repay the trouble of visiting it, and the tourist will be infinitely better amused and instructed in other more accessible lands."