a Goodbye Gimson I z
WE lost our dear Andrew Gimson last week, he of the cherubic face and maniacal laughter. He has gone off to Ireland and then to join the Independent and the other ex-Spectator figures; I think his wild trip to Majorca with the 18-30 Club has a lot to answer for. Before he left he had a farewell lunch with his own choice of guests and as it was suitably summery I shall use it for this piece.
First they had a good strong pâté based on one of Madam David's, no bacon, no pork, very simple, very good, quick and easy.
Chicken liver Pdté 1 lb of chicken livers
4 oz of unsalted butter 3 tablespoons of brandy (or whisky) 3 tablespoons of port (or cream sherry) thyme and garlic salt and pepper 4 oz concentrated butter
It is nigh impossible to get fresh chicken livers in abundance but the frozen ones do very well for this. Melt them slowly and then drain them in a sieve. Remove any sinews and make sure that no little green bile sacs have been left behind. Melt half the unsalted butter in a frying pan, put in the chicken livers and cook gently for about five minutes, turning them over and over to cook evenly but leaving them pink within. Scoop them out with a perforated spoon and place in a mixer or processor. (Failing these you must just use a pestle and mortar and strength.) Return the pan and its juices back to the heat, pour in the brandy, bring to the bubble, then add the port. Simmer for a minute or two. Season the livers with a little salt and quite a lot of freshly ground black pepper, add a peeled clove of garlic, a good-sized one, and a fair pinch of thyme. Blend into a paste. Pour in the juices from the pan and add the remaining 2 oz of unsalted butter. Blend again until smooth and well mixed. Place this mixture in a suitable terrine or soufflé dish, leaving enough room to seal with butter. Chill the pâté for a bit until set. Melt about 4 oz of concentrated butter in a pan, then pour it through a sieve over the pâté to seal it. Keep in the refrigerator for three days before eating. Serve well chilled with hot toast. Plenty for eight people.
The next course was a fine sea trout. These creatures are plentiful and excellent at the moment. Mine was a six-pounder, which I cooked in a fish kettle, but the smaller ones from two to four pounds are more suitable for the average table. Simply oil a large sheet of foil, place the fish in the middle, season liberally with salt and pep- per. Twist the foil together to make a loose parcel, place it on a baking tray and cook in a preheated oven at Gas 4, 335° F, 179° C for 40 minutes, take out and leave to cool in the foil. If you want it hot put a small glass of dry vermouth over the fish before parcelling and add another 5 min- utes•to the cooking time. Serve with new potatoes and a good home-made mayon- naise to which you have added a plentiful chopping of chives, parsley and tarragon. A plain cucumber salad is the usual accom- paniment but I have just made a turnip and cucumber salad at home which was a bit different and to my mind delicious with the rich trout.
Turnip and cucumber salad
a cucumber 6-8 small French turnips 1 fat clove of fresh garlic olive oil lemon juice dill salt and pepper
Peel the cucumber in stripes, leaving some of the green skin. Slice, salt and put between two plates with a weight on top to drain for an hour. The turnips are those ravishing little white and purple creatures which are about at the moment; they have a lovely peppery flavour. Peel them and boil whole in salted water until just tender but not soft, from 10 to 15 minutes. Drain well, place in a bowl and immediately coat with olive oil,'season with salt and ground pepper and some lemon juice; mix in the garlic, finely chopped. Leave to cool, then slice to match the cucumber. Squeeze the remaining moisture from the cucumber, mix with the turnips and sprinkle with a lot of chopped dill. Check the seasoning, adding more olive oil and lemon juice. If you were eating this salad with less rich fare you could smother it with sour cream which is a lovely combination.
So farewell, Gimson, we shall love you and miss you.
Jennifer Paterson
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