IN rather a good year for new London restaurants I
can report on two fine late arrivals. In the past few months the splendid Club Gascon has opened in West Smith- field, and the owners of The Ivy and Le Caprice have refurbished the 'fish ordinary', J. Sheekey, just off St Martin's Lane. Both places have achieved that rare success of seeming to have been open for years, and both are justifiably doing a roaring trade.
Paschal Aussignac is a young Toulousain chef who worked for his fellow Gascon Alain Dutournier at his magnificent Carre des Feuillants restaurant in Paris. In London he has set up in a former. Lyons teashop beside Barts Hospital, where he offers a menu devoted to the cuisine of his region, specialis- ing in such goodies as foie gras, cassoulet and confit of duck. Even more remarkable than the wealth of Gascon treats on offer are the remarkably low prices he charges for them. Part of the reason is that portions are com- mendably small, thus encouraging one to try more than one dish per head, but also Pascal clearly believes in giving a fair deal. Thus, his seven foie gras dishes cost between £3.50 and £8, and main courses weigh in at £6 to £7.50. My most recent meal there, with the bon vivant fauna and flora communications guru Ken Thomson, came to just £66.50 for three courses (including three starters), coffee and a bottle of robust Minervois. Amazing value.
The medium-sized room is well lit, simply decorated, with mainly circular tables, and some leather armchairs by the entrance in which to await one's table. There are plenty of keen young French waiters, and the place is packed with the vibrant ambience of a good brasserie in a French market town at midday. Ken and I instantly felt at home, and kicked off with foie gras en terrine, rillettes of duck, and a 'cake' of copes and parsley. Each was magnificent: the foie gras a perfect mottled pink, chilled and tasting sweetly of duck, the 'cake' more an egg custard, burst- ing with the taste of copes and the duck ril- lettes simply the best that we had ever eaten.
Next Ken ate some duck confit in a mar- vellous vegetable garbure with intense duck broth around it. Having on a previous visit tried an excellent fillet steak a la plancha, in a Madiran sauce with a stuffed pimento, this time I chose smoked eel fillets fried in feath- er-light choux pastry, with punchy horse- radish sauce. We both enjoyed Club Gas- con's incomparable frites, fried in duck fat. To end, Ken chose the prunes in (neat) armagnac, and I a home-made almond tart, served with a small beaker of freshly squeezed apple juice: a brilliant idea. Impec- cable espressos ended a memorable meal.
Sheekey's fish restaurant in St Martin's Court is one of the area's oldest inhabitants, and of late had become dingy and down-at- heel. Jeremy King and Christopher Corbin acquired it just before being bought out by the Belgo mob, but happily have retained control of their own affairs. J. Sheekey has been totally refurbished, with David Collins in charge of the decor, and the makeover has retained its old features and charm. There is a cosy bar with distressed mirrors and four intimate, intercommunicating din- ing-rooms, all with dark wood panelling, leather banquettes, gas-style light fittings, and old theatrical photographs on the walls.
I have already eaten there with the belles gourmandes Russian Zarina, French Nathalie and American Laura among others, and all have enjoyed their meals enormously. The menu is a cunning blend of ancient and mod- ern, with jellied eel, soused herrings, grilled mackerel, and fish and chips co-existing with leek and copes tart, risotto nero, blue-fm tuna and roasted sea bass. There are plenty of fresh crustacea, including Irish, Breton and native oysters, plus Sevruga and Beluga caviar. I and my companions have sampled a fair selection of the menu. Soused herrings, potted shrimps, Atlantic prawns, crab bisque and fines de claires oysters all made satisfy- ing starters. Among main courses, grilled mackerel with mustard sauce, lemon sole meuniere with soft roes and brown shrimps, pan-fried skate with capers, grilled whole sea bream and lobster americain gave pleasure, the fish invariably fresh. There are splendid traditional English desserts such as baked apple, sherry trifle, treacle tart and spotted dick for those who have room. Most wines are also available in 50 cl carafes, and the ser- vice has all the charm and skill of Le Caprice and the Ivy, whence many of the staff have come. Prices are between £65 and £85 for two, including wine and coffee. Another valuable addition to the London scene.
Club Gascon. 57 West Smithfield, London EC1. Tel: 0171 253 5853.
Sheekey. 28-32 St Martin's Court, London WC2. Tel: 0171 240 2565.
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