5 FEBRUARY 1960, Page 38

Wine of the Week

WHAT does a wine-drinker drink when he isn't drinking wine? I have a liking for ice- cold lager beer, and for real fruit, freshly squeezed (why is t' it impossible to get citron presse in England, when it's so easy in France?), but my favourite bottled soft drink, by a long chalk, is Shloer apple juice— immeasurably superior, to my mind, to sugared up up synthetics and so-called fruit drinks that con- tain pretty little fruit, and much more akin 1 wine in dryness and flavour.' And in its integrity, too: Shloer contains nothing but liquid apple-- no preservative, no colouring matter, no sweeter ing. It is prevented from fermenting in bottle b some kind of filtering and by low-temperatul pasteurisation (if it fermented, it would becon' a cider : the fruit-sugar would become alcohol There is said to be 2 lb. of apples to every pin and I can believe it. It is sold by many stores an some off-licences in pint, half-pint, and quartet pint bottles at 2s. 2d., Is. 6d. and 10d., and find the half-pint just about right for lunch—wel chilled, as though it were a dryish white wine. wish it were easier to get in restaurants.

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CYRIL RAY