MANY historical anniversaries this week: destruction of Spanish fleet at
Manila Bay; Napoleon's victory at Lutzen; Belle Helene was produced in 1864, leaving a trail of dishes in its wake: tournedos resting on artichoke hearts filled with sauce bear- naise, garniture for roasts, rolled fillets of sole, heart-shaped fillets of chicken and the famous pear dessert covered with rich glossy chocolate. The Countess Waleska, mistress of Napoleon I, bore him a son on 4 May and is remembered in perpetua for sole Waleska, rich in lobster claws and sauce. Empress Eugenie, born on 5 May at Granada, left behind a bavaroise of cream whipped with tiny macaroons covered with a custard flavoured with noyau and a pineapple bombe filled with crystallised violet cream. Perhaps the new princess will follow her example in years to come. After all that exotica, it being new lamb time, I thought of the excellent lamb stew which you don't often find in England; also the lovely little young turnips are with us which are an essential part of this.
Navarin printanier
3 lbs lamb 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 dessertspoons flour 1 dessertspoon sugar 1 pint lamb or beef stock 2 tablespoons tomato purée 2 cloves garlic Rosemary and a bay leaf 12 little potatoes 12 young turnips 12 young carrots 12 small pickling onions 1/2 lb green beans 1/2 lb green peas
Whichever meat from the lamb you are using, remove all excess fat and any hard skin. Cut the meat into 2-inch cubes. Dry the meat with kitchen towels. Heat the oil in a good big frying pan until very hot and then brown the lamb on all sides, a few pieces at a time, removing them into a waiting casserole. Sprinkle the sugar over the meat and toss over a moderately high heat for 3-4 minutes until the sugar has caramelised. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper, add the flour and toss again to brown the flour. Pour the fat out of the frying pan and pour in the stock, bring to the boil, scraping any little brown pieces into the liquid, then pour over the lamb pieces in the casserole. Add the tomato purée, mashed garlic cloves and herbs and if necessary additional stock or water to cover the lamb, bring to simmer- ing point, cover and cook slowly for one hour. Pour the contents of the casserole through a colander into another pan and return the meat to the rinsed-out casserole. Skim fat from the liquid, adjust the season- ing and pour back over the meat. Have the potatoes peeled and the carrots and turnips peeled and quartered, the onions peeled with a cross pierced into the root for even cooking. Mix all the vegetables with the lamb and the sauce. Bring back to a simmer and cook for a further hour, or until everything is tender. Have the green peas and beans ready by dropping them into boiling water for five minutes, drain immediately and rinse with cold water. Add them to the casserole for about five minutes before serving.
For a lamb shoulder you might like to try this Scottish version adapted from Janet Warren.
Parson's or friar's venison
441/2 lbs shoulder of lamb boned
1/4 pint stock 1/2 oz dripping For the stuffing:
4 oz chopped ham 4 oz chopped mushrooms 1 oz butter 1 level tablespoon chopped chives For the marinade: 1/4 pint red wine 6 juniper berries
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Bay leaf and fresh ground nutmeg
Sauté the mushrooms in the butter, add chives and ham, season and leave to cool. Season the inside of the meat, put in the cold stuffing, then sew up the joint secure- ly. Mix the ingredients for the marinade in a shallow dish. Turn the joint in the marinade, leave for 12 hours, rotating the meat every now and then. Melt the drip- ping in a roasting pan, add the drained joint and brown well all over, pour in the marinade, bring to the boil. Cover the pan and roast in a pre-heated oven at Gas 4, 350F, 180C for about 13/4-2 hours, basting twice. Dish the meat, add the stock to the juices in the tin, let it bubble for a bit, then strain and serve with the meat.
Jennifer Paterson
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