5 OCTOBER 1991, Page 26

Housewives' choice

Sir: Ron and Gloria, the erstwhile deli- catessen owners so gratuitously maligned in Nigella Lawson's fulsome article about a smart new restaurant in Kensington Park Road (28 September), are not Austrian. I've often waited as they chatted amiably to all sorts of customers, and I can assure you that they were remarkably good-tempered, even to those exigent yuppies who saun- tered in. I shudder to think what sort of demands could possibly have elicted a bad- tempered response from that eager-to- please couple.

Odd that Miss Lawson should take against their useful little neighbourhood shop which catered so well both for busy local housewives and for car-less pension- ers: like The Spectator, it was a family busi- ness. And it is much missed by those who wanted good food at less than £55 quid for two.

She was accurate in one matter: at one time they had a dog. Not, maybe, the most hygienic inhabitant of a food shop; but also notably good-natured.

Val Arnold-Foster

115 Blenheim Crescent, London WI 1