SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

Upper and lower case

Auberon Waugh

The last offer of the year traditionally goes to Lay & Wheeler as a tribute not only to the high standard of their wine, but also to the excellence of their service, accepting and delivering wine for Christmas orders long after other wine merchants have Slipped under the table, But try to get your orders to Colchester by 17 December or You may be unlucky. The nine wines — five French, a Chilean, an Italian and two wonderful New Zealan- ders — can be divided into two samples or mixed cases. The lower case, containing two bottles each of the six cheaper wines, works out at £5.37 the bottle delivered, the Upper case works out at £10.21 — a colos- sal difference, particularly as three of the wines are the same. My great disappoint- ment is being unable to include the Martin- borough Pinot Noir(s) in the lower case. It is an entirely new experience in drinking, a revelation, which I would dearly love to share with as many people as possible. But even at the colossally reduced price of £9.45, it would discourage the real paupers, 'fear.

The Arlequin 1996 Chardonnay(1) from Chile features in the upper case as well as the lower case because, before its generous price reduction of 80p down from list price, it was more expensive that the Terret Blanc (2). It is an entirely new label and will no doubt be more expensive when it becomes better known. The panel found it an excellent example of the unoaked chardonnay, not oppressively varietal (winespeak for not tasting too much like chardonnay) and without too many tropical touches. It opens up well, has good length and provides a nice, easy drink with noth- ing to worry the palate. The Terret Blanc 1995(2) from Domaine La Facleze, within sight of the Mediter- ranean at Agde, is a surprising wine to find in any Spectator offer, let alone at Christ- mas. Perhaps I should explain that 'tenet' is the name of a grape no one has heard of. The wine smells and tastes exactly like those wines which people rave about on holiday in Provence and can never find again. Well, here it is — very pale, a touch astringent but stimulating in its astringency, never sharp or sour, wildly different from the usual run and beautifully made to go With oysters or other shellfish. It is quite an exciting wine for those prepared to open their minds to the taste.

The Moa Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 1996(s) from New Zealand was the most acclaimed of the whites — utterly delicious gooseber- ry taste, pretty label, reduced by 50p from the list price of £5.99 and a bargain at £5.45. Produced at the next property to Cloudy Bay, it is slightly more assertive at this age but a lovely wine which everyone will adore.

My unending search for a reasonably priced burgundy takes us this time to the Javillier domaine, within the political but not the wine area of Meursault. This Bour- gogne Blanc Oligocene of 1994(4) is a better wine than many premiers crus of better years — good background of oak, but not dominated by it, a touch of dried apricots, perhaps. I hope people enjoy it at £11.95 (reduced from £12.95).

Now for the reds. Our cheapie, once again, is a real winner. The Marquise de Bairac's 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon(S) has a lovely, sweet Cabernet smell and lots of stuffing. From the pays d'Oc, where so much good wine is now being made from classic grapes, it has masses of southern fruit with a touch of tannin in the finish to hold it all together. Better with food than as an aperitif, a good, strong, manly wine at £3.99.

The Italian Montepulciano d'Abruzzo(6), from Roxan is softer and easier, with a rich

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Chardonnay Arlequ in 1996 Terret Blanc (La Fadeze)1995 Moa Ridge Sauvignon 7996 Bourgogne Blanc 1994 (Javillier) Price 12 Bots £59.40 12 Bots £63.00 12 Boss £65.88 12 Bots £143.40 12 Bots £47.88 12 Bois £54.60 12 Bots £95.88 12 Bots £113.40 12 Bots £257.40 No. Value White

1.

Red 5. Cabernet Sauvignon, Marquise de Bairac 1994 6. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Roxan 1995 7 Château Le Charmag Haut Medoc 1993 8. Pinot Noir, Martinborough 1993 9. Chateau Guillot Pomerol 1990 Mixed 10. Lowercase. Two each of 1,2,3,5,6,7 12 Bots £64.44 11. Upper case. Two each of 1,3,4, za 9 12 Bots £122.56

TOTAL (Cheque enclosed)

Please send wine to: Own name & address, if different: NAME NAME ADDRESS ADDRESS POSTCODE POSTCODE TELEPHONE TELEPHONE Prices include VAT and delivery on the British mainland. Payment should be made by cheque, payable to Spectator Wine Club, or by Access/Visa, details of which may telephoned or faxed. This offer, which is subject to availability, closes on 24 January 1997, but for delivery before Christmas, orders should be with Lay & Wheeler by 17 December 1996.

VISA/ACCESS NO EXPIRY DATE SIGNED

curranty smell moving into a taste of the very best fruit pastilles. In fact, the smell alone puts it way above its price of £4.55, and the taste (which ends short and dry) will be particularly welcomed by frustrated paupers who vaguely remember having drunk good red burgundy many years ago Next a thoroughly elegant and impres- sive cm bourgeois from Haut Medoc. The Château Le Charmail 1993(7) is a much better wine than its year suggests. In the fruity style of Bordeaux, with good deep colour, good oak, strong cedar-wood or cigar-smoke character. A lovely wine, intended for the upper case only, but included in the lower case for a treat at £7.99 (reduced by £1).

Next my discovery of the year. We drank Martinborough's Pinot Noir(8) cold by acci- dent, but it was like Archimedes in his bath. Forget about burgundy. This is the concen- trated taste of pure pinot, one of the most exhilarating tastes in the world and easily the best cold red wine experience I have ever had. It is faultless, lovely, unforget- table, and the smell alone is a revelation. Seeing my excitement, Lay & Wheeler's John Thorogood took pity on me and reduced the price of this New Zealand wine from £10.95 to £9.45, a reduction of £1.50 the bottle. All I can say is `go for it' while stocks last. If you have to sell your second motor-car, you will not regret it.

Finally, if you want the grand old Burgun- dian taste, albeit from Bordeaux, you might try the 1990 Château Guillot(9) from Pomerol. I wrote 'almost burgundian' in my tasting notes, but may have been mincing my words. It has a soft, cheese soufflé nose with many fruits, chiefly prunes, competing for attention, an opulent fruitcake charac- ter. No, it is a thoroughly good wine, but one cannot be too enthusiastic about any- thing costing £21.45 the bottle. Those who want this wine will know they do. The mixed cases, as I have said, work out at £5.37 and £10.21 respectively.