10 OCTOBER 1992, Page 50

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Chicken and spice — everything nice L../.0004,...,),ALJOL4114,

WE HAVE the great Saint Teresa of Avila's feast day coming up on 15 October. I have always liked the story of her being thrown from her carriage into a ditch after some accident, whereupon she shook her fist at the skies and addressed the Almighty in a fury of wrath: 'If this is how you treat your friends, Lord, no wonder you have so many enemies' — or words to that effect.

It is always a treat to go to Nancy and Michael Lambton's house for Sunday lunch. Michael is one of those natural cooks who, as far as I am concerned, always produces the most delicious food, whatever it may be. His last offering was the best fried chicken I have ever had — which I have adapted slightly for your delectation.

Southern Italian fried chicken (Fritto di polo) 1 3-4 lb chicken

2 chillies 4 tablespoons olive oil 4 tablespoons Italian dry vermouth 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 plump garlic cloves, crushed 1 small onion, finely sliced 1 dessertspoon dry English mustard Rosemary, thyme, sage and bay leaf Flour, breadcrumbs, sesame seeds Paprika, salt and pepper 2 eggs

Joint the chicken into eight bits, or buy pieces if you prefer. Make a marinade from the crushed and chopped chillies (take great care to wash your hands thoroughly after this operation or you may touch your eyes inadvertently, with dire results), olive oil, vermouth, lemon juice, garlic, onion, mustard and herbs. Mix well together, stir in the chicken pieces, marinate for six hours, turning them frequently. When ready, remove the pieces from the mari- nade and squeeze any liquid and bits and pieces from them. Pat dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade and reserve the liquid. Have a plastic bag with about two tablespoons of seasoned flour in it, a bowl with breadcrumbs seasoned with the sesame seeds and paprika, and another bowl with the two well-beaten eggs at the ready. Flour the pieces of chicken by shak- ing them in the bag, coat with the beaten egg, then roll in the breadcrumb mixture. Fry gently in heated shallow oil (I used sunflower) until crisp and golden and cooked through, about 10 to 15 minutes on each side. Keep warm in a low oven if you

have to do batches, laying on some paper towels to drain excess oil. Serve with a light tomato sauce:

1 14 oz tin chopped Italian tomatoes 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed and chopped 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 oz butter The liquid from the marinade Fresh basil leaves Salt and pepper and caster sugar

Gently saute the onion and garlic in the oil and butter until soft and yellow, add the tomatoes, the marinade liquid, 1 teaspoon of caster sugar, salt and black pepper t° taste. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix in 6 torn-up basil leaves and cook for a further 5 minutes. Use sieved or not, as you desire. For Hallowe'en you could bake some of that Barm Brack (Barm Bread) I was enquiring about in February. According to Diana Grayer, it is usually baked with a gold ring in it for the lucky finder, but a thimble, button or silver coin are some- times used instead.

Bann Brack

1 lb flour 2 oz butter

3 oz brown sugar 1/2 pint tepid milk 4-5 oz sultanas

2 oz finely chopped mixed peel 1 teaspoon mixed cinnamon and nutmeg 1 egg, 1 teaspoon salt

3/4 oz creamed yeast (The creamed yeast is achieved by blending V2 teaspoon of sugar, V2 teaspoon of flour with 1 tablespoon of tepid water added to the yeast and used when it becomes frothY. It must all be well blended.) Sift the flour, salt and spice into a bowl. Leave in a warm place. Rub in the butter, add the sugar and make a well in the cen- tre. Pour in the creamed yeast, the beaten egg and most of the tepid milk. Mix into a batter and beat until it begins to leave the sides of the bowl. Add fruit and peel. Turn into a warmed, greased tin, cover and leave to rise for an hour or so until almost dou- ble in size. Bake in a pre-heated oven at Gas 6, 390F, 200C, for 10 minutes, then reduce to Gas 4, 375F, 190C for a further 45 minutes. Paint the top with a little milk and sugar and return to the oven for a few minutes.

Jennifer Paterson