1 DECEMBER 1990, Page 32

Mad hats

Sir: I am delighted that Nigella Lawson has stumbled, however inadvertently, upon an important truth about one of the major international fast food chains (Restaurant, 17 November). She reports from Moscow that in that metropolis 'Pizza Hut' is pronounced 'Piz- za Hat'. This she clearly regards, mistaken- ly, as something in the nature of an eccentricity, or positive error. Has she looked at the company logo? Has she not noticed that it bears no relation whatever to a hut, but bears an uncanny resemblance to a variety of hats (perhaps especially of the Spanish persua- sion)? Has she taken into account the fact that in several European countries (not- ably Germany) 'Hut' is no more or less than the word for hat? In short, it is clear that the ranks of Muscovy are right, and it therefore seems that Ms Lawson is being somewhat uncharitable.

LETTERS

The notion of a Pizza Hat may seem marginally bizarre to some of your readers as well as your writers. Those more widely read in the field of gastronomy will not, however, have failed to take note of Sandra Boynton's important observation (the quotation is from memory) in her seminal Chocolate Book, that 'a failed chocolate soufflé makes an attractive be- ret'.

Richard Henderson

20 Tamar House, 12 Tavistock Place, London WC1