1 DECEMBER 1990, Page 33

Gourmets at Grey Gables

Sir: John Diamond believes that Ambridge folk have only just caught a whiff of culinary innovation from the kitchens of The Bull and Grey Gables (Indigestible plots', 10 November). In fact, over the years Ambridge has artfully mirrored the food fashions of the world outside Borset- shire. I well remember the newly-married Pat Archer crisping up a loaf of garlic bread in the days when this was still a remotely exciting prospect. Devotees will also recall a fever of gastronomic debate when, in 1978, Caroline Bone brought cordon bleu to the Ploughman's Bar, and Nelson Gabriel's verdict on her then mod- ish soup — 'just a couple of lettuce leaves and a stock cube' — a denunciation worthy of Digby Anderson.

Compared with his slur on the palates of Ambridge, Mr Diamond's negligent mis- appellation of the silent Higgs (Hobbs indeed!) is almost digestible.

Sian Jennings

P.O. Box 309, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands