22 JANUARY 1960, Page 31

Wine of the Week

You wouldn't think, of cutter Lane as a name to set the gastric juices ‘flowing. But this narrow alley in the City, off Gresham Street (Which is opposite the GP0),, has two admirable new eating and drinking places set into its modern Office blocks.

Raymond Postgate has already mentioned lunch at the Baron of Beef; it is pleasantly quiet in the evening (it opens from 5.30 p.m. till 9); in my opinion, the roast beef, the steak-and-kidney pie and (most important) the service, are. as„ good as anywhere in London. Now let me commend the Balls Brothers' wine bar, just opposite, which is also open in the evening (from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.) as well as for lunch. At its bar and at the cold bullet you can drink wine by the glass at a very honest price. The Chablis, for instance, is 2s. 6d. a glass, a glass being a fifth of a bottle or a quarter-pint. Or you can buy it by the bottle at 12s. 6d., to share on the spot with ,your friends, or to take away. Similarly, the :Beaujolais is .2s. a glass, 9s. 6d. a bottle, and a very good, VSOP brandy is sold at 2s. 3d. a glass, the measure being thirty-two glasses to the bottle.

My wine of the week is the medium7clry sherry, sold at I s.,9d. a glass, from the cask (a glass being one-tenth of a bottle), or you can take it away at 18s. a bottle. The Balls Brothers ship their sherries themselves, and seem to deal very fairly,with their.

customers: l'hope they prosper. cy,t,tx RAY