26 APRIL 1986, Page 53

Scottish scoff _degk—PLA

THIS is a Scottish issue so we must have Scottish aliment to the fore. We all know that Scotland produces the best meat, fish, raspberries and of course whisky, they are also some of the best bakers in the world producing pastry and scones so gossamer tight they float you to a glutton's heaven. The weather continuing as it does, there is no better soup than cockaleekie: Cockaleekie 1 boiling chicken

8 leeks 3 oz of butter 21/2 quarts of beef or veal stock Bouquet garni of parsley and thyme Salt, pepper and soft brown sugar

Cut the leeks into one-inch pieces dis- carding the tough green part; wash very carefully under a fierce tap to remove all that clinging grit. Joint the fowl and season lightly with ground pepper and salt. Heat the butter in a large saucepan, add the Jointed fowl and the carcase, brown all Over. Put in the leeks and fry for a further five minutes stirring and turning the ingre- dients. Pour in the stock and put in the bouquet garni wrapped in a muslin bag. Brinsimmer to boil and skim if necessary, then for two hours with the lid on. Remove chicken pieces and carcase, also the bouquet. Cut the flesh off the bones and return to the soup. Taste for seasoning adding a little brown sugar if you like. Some people add rice to this soup, which is a mistake; leave it pure. The addition of Prunes is also unwise and was even severe- ly .criticised by Talleyrand. As you can see it is a meal in itself and all the better for making 24 hours ahead to be reheated when needed. The revolting object to be found in pubs and supermarkets masquerading as a scotch egg is a veritable disgrace to its true self. Rock hard, chilled greenish eggs swathed in gristly sausage meat coated with orange gravel. Dear oh dear. The real thing is delicious, an excellent little lun- cheon dish served with a salad and a glass of wine.

10 large eggs Scotch eggs 8 oz of ham

6 anchovy fillets 4 oz fresh breadcrumbs Black pepper and mixed spice Flacon fat or butter

Beat two eggs in shallow bowl. Put the rest of the eggs in a saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Plunge into cold water and peel. This method makes the yolks slightly softer, which to my mind is far more delectable.

Mince or chop finely the ham and the anchovies, combine with the breadcrumbs, ground pepper and half a teaspoon of mixed spice and the beaten eggs leaving a little of the egg mixture in the bowl. Smear each boiled egg with the remaining raw egg and encase with the ham mixture, mould- ing it round in your squeaky-clean hands. Fry in the bacon fat or butter with a slug of olive oil added until browned all over, cut in half and serve on fried bread or toast, calories permitting. To return to the sweet tooth, here is a fake sort of Athole brose ice-cream cov- ered in crumbled flapjack instead of pra- line. First make Scottish flapjack 4 oz flaked oats

3 oz soft brown sugar 3 oz unsalted butter 1 dessertspoonful of golden syrup 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger

Blend together the butter and sugar until creamy, work in the oats and the treacle, finally sprinkle in the ginger and mix well. Turn the mixture into an eight-inch sand- wich tin or pour onto a baking sheet; either one should be well greased. Flatten the mixture evenly and bake in a pre-heated oven at Gas 5, F.375, C.190 for 18 minutes. When cold remove from the tin and crum- ble in a plastic bag rolling and banging with a rolling pin. Store in a jar. Children make this very well so if you have any start them off.

Athole brose ice-cream 1 pint thick cream 4 level tablespoons of clear heather honey 6 level tablespoons of scotch whisky Dissolve the honey in the whisky by warming it slightly in a small saucepan. When cool fold into the cream and whip all together until thick. Freeze until needed but let it soften for a while before serving. Strew the crumbled flapjack over the ice cream.

Jennifer Paterson