28 MAY 1954, Page 41

Ashley Courtenay tours Scotland

THE ink will barely be dry on this page before I set off on my annual visit of Scottish Hotels. Clearly I cannot have any 'cut and dried' programme for, besides hotels on my existing lists to resample, I have reader's recommenda- tions to try out, and unknowingly they sometimes lead me all but up inaccessible glens.

Some hotels never vary in quality, only improve like vintage Wine. Among these, placed in touristic order, are the follow- ing. By my favourite entry Carter Bar, I shall pass through the Scott country to stay at one of Scotland's best hotels, THE MARINE at North Berwick (Tel. 406) or that lovely In Edinburgh an excel- lent choice awaits me, and because I shall have writing to do, I am choosing that small, friendly, quietly situated ROYAL STUART HOTEL (Tel. Central 1871). Later, crossing the Firth of Forth, I shall make avidly for Aberdour, WOODSIDE HOTEL (Tel. 8) for here there IS ever a high regard for food and wine at most reasonable prices.

delightful country house hotel aAnmora at Banchory (Tel. 122). Here I shall halt awhile—and as Deeside must not be hurried over LOIRSTON HOTEL, Ballater (Tel. 13) is an ever sound recommendation on the score of comfort, cooking and cleanliness.

Another night must be spent at DALMUNZ1E HOUSE HOTEL, SPittal of Glenshee (Tel. Glenshee 207) where, in this once Shooting lodge, one can get the real feel of Scotland. Good alternative accommodation awaits me nearer Tayside, viz., ness and in the Western half THE INVERGARttY HOTEL (Tel. 206) 25 miles east of Fort William.

Southward bound, a comfortable day's run down the western sea-board, viz., Oban and Lochgilphead will bring me to the shores of Loch Fyne, and here the comfortable STONEFIELD CASTLE HOTEL, Tarbert (Tel. 7) will be my base prior to turning eastwards to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. From a choice_ of excellent hotels I shall, this year, select if they can accom- modate me THE LAKE HOTEL, Port of Monteith (Tel. 214) Or, if they cannot find a room for me, the luxurious GOLDEN LION at Stirling (Tel. 1950). To some, Stirling—that gateway to the North—is the beginning and end of the Highlands, but not for me. Some of the best of Scotland is to be found on the Clyde, in Galloway and around Kirk- cudbright.

So by-passing Glasgow by the Erskine Ferry, I shall make for THE BAY HOTEL at Gourock (Tel. 501) a good base for Clyde steamers, and for a more prolonged stay at the famous GLEN- BURN HOTEL, Rothesay (Tel. 500).

ASHLEY COURTENAY