Correspondence
A LETTER FROM ANGORA.
[To the Editor of the SPECTATOR.] SIR,—It is a crime in Turkey to make invidious comparisons between Constantinople and Angora, and the only English newspaper published in Constantinople was suppressed for an article on this subject.
The rulers of modern Turkey realized when they transferred the capital to Angora that their action would be open to criticism, that public opinion, interest and tradition were all against them ; so they made it illegal to discuss the matter, and went on their way imperturbably. And there is no doubt that Angora has made great headway in the past four years. A new suburb has been grafted on to the old town, and its whole appearance is rapidly altering. There has been almost feverish activity in the matter of new construction, so much so, indeed, that the supply has outrun the demand, and a number of the new houses remain unoccupied. This is chiefly because the cost of living is so high and rents are so exorbitant that most officials and others whom necessity compels to sojourn in Angora do not bring their wives and families, finding it more economical to live en garcon with others in like situation. For this reason Angora is unique in one respect among capital towns ; its male population is considerably in the majority. The total population is, how- ever, only 59,000.
In the matter of climate Angora is in some respects better
off than Constantinople. It is much more bracing on the Anatolian plateau, although colder in winter and hotter in summer. The marshes which were responsible for so much malaria and sickness have been drained and planted with trees. But dust is still a great nuisance in summer. The water- supply has been greatly improved ; running water in pipes has been brought in as far as the new suburb and will gradually be extended to the whole town. The same applies to elec- tricity for lighting and domestic uses. There is also an efficient automatic telephone service, of which the Turks are exceedingly proud, claiming that in this respect they are ahead of London, as indeed they well may be without being ultra- modern. The Municipality of Angora has adopted a large scheme of development, involving an outlay of IT35,000,000, but naturally the question of funds will delay its realization.
Social life in Angora is largely centred around the various
foreign Legations where there ate informal thus dansants during many afternoons of the week. There are also a certain number of official balls under Turkish auspices during the season, some of which are attended by society from Con- stantinople, which travels down for the purpose. Turkish ladies are coming out more and more at these dances and receptions, and the sight of Turkish officers dancing together in the absence of lady partners is now a thing of the past. The centre of Turkish social life is the Angora Club, of which all diplomatists in Angora are honorary members. There are no theatres or music-halls, but the ubiquitous cinema is as popular in Angora as elsewhere. Bridge is the great relaxation, and " Contract " at that. Some of the Turkish deputies are excellent players.
Politically, things arc very quiet, for the Government has
no opposition to worry about, such opposition as there was having in the early part either been hanged, exiled or driven
completely out of sight. Only one party is tolerated, the so- called People's Party, and it is customary for all Government plans and proposals to be discussed and voted on at private sessions of the party. The consequence is that proceedings in the Assembly are usually purely formal and lacking in interest, as any vote is a foregone conclusion. This fact is unfortunately reflected in the attitude of the deputies, who carry on conversations among themselves without paying the slightest heed to anybody addressing the Assembly. Of course, when Ministers occupy the tribune, and especially when the Ghazi is there in person, this levity is abandoned. Although the session is only for six months 'the attendance of deputies is very irregular. A large number of them have several irons in the fire, being on the Boards of the various monopolies, banks and kindred institutions which have come into being since the advent of Kemalism. Many have done very well for themselves in land speculation, especially in Angora, where, of course, the person with inside knowledge came off best.
The economic situation is, however, what is causing the Government most serious concern. In spite of the apparent tide of prosperity, of budgetary equilibrium and stability of the exchange, it is felt that if the country is to be maintained solvent,_ foreign capital must be attracted into Turkey to secure its essential development. In order to obtain foreign aid, Turkish credit Must be strengthened by the settlement of outstanding debts. For this reason the Government is determined to come to some understanding over the coupon question, but budgetary exigencies leave little margin for fresh charges. The same applies to the Anatolian railway question. The repurchase of this line, which has been taken over and is being exploited by the Turks, has been the subject Of negotiations for three years past, but a settlement seems as far off as ever.
In spite of its financial worries, however, the Government is proceeding resolutely with its programme of railway develop- ment in the interior. A contract has been signed with a Swedish group for the construction of nearly five hundred kilometres of railway, and an agreement in principle has been reached with a Belgian firm for other lines. The strategic value of the projected lines is obvious ; whether they will ever be commercially profitable is another question. The paucity of the population in the interior is one of the problems of modern Turkey, and efforts are being made to encourage the immigration of Moslems from other lands to take the place of deported and departed. Greeks and Armenians. The figure of the population of Turkey is rather a sore point here. Foreign estimates of the total population vary between seven and eight millions, but Turkish authorities indignantly reject these figures and claim a total of at least thirteen millions. This vexed question will probably be settled in September, when it is proposed to take a general census. The most elaborate precautions are being taken for this occasion. Some trial attempts have been made in certain provincial towns and the populations have been kept indoors from early dawn to dewy eve. It is to be hoped that the results will eventually be published without any manipulation.
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