3 AUGUST 1951, Page 14

SPECTATOR COMPETITION No. 74

Re port by D. R. Peddy A prize was offered for an extract from a B.B.C. broadcast in the series " In the Kitchen" ; the dish described being one of the following : Red Herrings, Doughboys, Humble Pie, Sugar Daddies. or Mutton Dressed Like Lamb.

A good time was had by all—including myself. In most of these competitions there is, however, something which disqualifies a fairly large number of entrants : in this case it was my preference for ingredients which were edible and for language which was culinary: so that those who wrote in terms of peroxide, soft soap and pinches' of relevance were marked down. Another requirement was that the dish should be made to sound appetising.

Sugar Daddies and Humble Pie tied for popularity, the former producing by far the best entries. Only one—albeit prizewinning— competitor attempted Doughboys. Mutton Dressed Like Lamb did not inspire very high quality material, though there was general agreement in recommending frills at the scrag ends, capers, and serving by candlelight.

I liked F. P. D.'s historical notes on Humble Pie and Thomas Chitty on Mutton (" Remove any brain and stuff the cavity with wild oats and Spanish onions "). Margaret Usborne's second entry on the latter delicacy was also very readable (" I am sure this dish, which is sometimes known as ' Lassie Passee,' will always be greeted

with smiles "). J. A. L. Allan's Sugar Daddies, too, sound attrac-

tive if improbable: " While hot they give off large glass-like crystals (known to Americans as ' ice ') which can be stored for a rainy day.

Tasty dishes left near them for any length of time acquire a fufry covering, considered by many to be greatly desirable." The Rev.

Whigham Price considers, on the other hand, that " a little rancid Hoyle will bring out the full flavour of the Red Herrings, and will momentarily dispel the odour of sanctity."

Prizes of 10s. each to R. J. P. Hewison, and Michael James ; £1 to Margaret Usborne, and two prizes of 10s. each to R. Kennard Davis and Joyce Johnson.

FIRST PRIZES (R. J. P. HEWISON)

SUGAR DADDIES

These rich but simple sweeties are favourites with the girls. Their vitamin £ and $ content is most beneficial in deficiency cases. The usual portion is onc. We girls mustn't be greedy, and more at a time might disagree. The best kind are of .solid consistency, with toughish exterior decorated with hundreds and thousands, and soft centre.

Like most tasty dishes, Sugar Daddies need firm hathis and a cool head. Teske some old fool, add sugar, spice, eau de vie Parisienne and couleur de rose: throw in a few charms and plenty of butter. Stir. Warm gently until malleable. Apply the nylon test. If this succeeds, let cool, but while still impressionable add liquor and twist round the little finger. Smother with Angel's kisses, and roast in a sweetiepie dish until done brown. Garnish with applesauce, and liven up with occasional raspberries and cut dates. Serve with champagne, wearing orchids and diamonds. A discreet hint of orange-blossom sometimes makes a nice finish.

The longer Sugar Daddies can be kept, the better. This needs some art, if your sweetie is not to go sour on you—even break,off altogether, Some use ice, with intermittent controlled warmth: others keep on tenterhooks.

(MICDAEL JAMES) DOUGH BOYS

Doughboys have a wide variety of dressings. For example, fruit salad is a common decorative accompaniment, and if ever you find a doughboy covered in fruit salad it is a good tip to add a pinch of salt as an aid to digestion Again, although rich they are sometimes seen with tarts, but_such lapses are to be frowned upon. My personal preference is to have plenty of dates with my doughboys. They have the pleasing characteristic of being perpetually fresh ; sometimes they are too fresh, in which case they should be given plenty of sauce. One doughboy per person is the ideal portion, and 1 dislike the practice of making one do for two or more people. On the continent, however, they prefer them in seven or eight divisions.

Now, before I go on to my recipes, I must deal with the fallacy that doughboys are harmful- to-the constitution. There is no truth in this whatsoever. They are in fact strengthening to the system and are especially beneficial when there is a tendency to an over-red complexion. . .

SECOND PRIZES

(MARGARET USBORNE)

SUGAR DADDIES

. . . should then be alternately soaked and buttered. Do not be 'too grudging with the dates, and stir from time to time with a spoon. The " daddies " should not be allowed to get crusty or they may cut up rough. You will find them good for parties and after-theatre suppers. They are inclined to spoil, but the richer they are the better they keep. In fact they cannot be too rich. Now let us leave Sugar Daddies, and 1 will tell you about something a little more savoury.

(R. KENNARD DAVIS) HUMBLE PIE

Now here is a dish that has been frequently served in recent times in the House of Commons. It needs careful preparation, and the following instructions should be closely followed.

Take one or two potentates', formerly the large white variety would have been thought necessary, but nowadays quite small brown ones have been found satisfactory. Soak them in oil, add red pepper, and bring them to the boil.

Next, make a nice hash of the situation, strain carefully all your resources, reduce power to a minimum, and leave everything to stew an its own juice. The cream of your local forces should now be well whipped. Be careful to mince your words, and a. leek or two may add flavour. Allow the whole to simmer for as long as possible, to avoid the least suspicion of toughness. Now put the lid on it, and serve with apologies all round. You will be surprised to find how much of this dish members are prepared to swallow.