A Night in a Lapp Hut A s I entered the
hut, my host, Nils Nia, a typical Laplander with a hooked nose, prominent cheek- bones and tangled dark hair, courteously waved me to a log on the right near the hearth, the place of honour. Opposite were a woman and two young girls who sat cross-legged against the side of the hut, also two youths of indefinite age smoking pipes made of mazur birch. There were also two black Lapp dogs, one of which was watching one of the younger girls as she chewed a large chunk of smoked reindeer that she had sliced off a reindeer leg with a clasp knife. A large very pale-faced Lapp baby, wrapped in mummy-like swaddling clothes, was lying in a most attractive looking reindeer skin cradle which was slung from the roof.
Nowhere have I met with more fantastic and weird- looking costumes than those worn by Nils Nia and his family on this occasion. Nils Nia himself wore a blue cloth tunic ornamented with red and yellow borders and gathered in at the waist by a leather belt, skin-tight cloth breeches, moccasins turned up at the toes and a high-pointed cap that, decorated with a bright red tassel and worn at a rakish angle, gave him the appearance of a court buffoon. His womenfolk were attired in blue cloth dresses trimmed with a kind of gold braid, tight breeches, apparently of the same material, coloured kerchiefs which were fastened by quaint brooches and attractive red and blue lace caps.
Unsavoury as have been some of the foods which I have tasted during my wanderings, few have been more repugnant than the compound of inferior Moka and reindeer milk that was now handed to me by my kind hosts. Taking a cup which had already been used by one of the company, she poured in some water and diligently started scraping the inside of it with her grubby fingers. Then, throwing out the water she wiped and polished the cup, poured in the coffee and milk and handed it to me.
After this experience I was ready for anything and until bedtime amused myself by watching the antics of my room mates as they now started to eat their evening meal. The menu consisted of smoked reindeer, unfermented bread and coffee, which was drunk sprinkled with salts Two reindeer bones were produced, one of which Nils Nia commandeered as head of the family while the other went the round of the guests. Sitting on the ground they all produced clasp knives and began to munch large chunks of meat which they pared off the bones. The dogs ran from one to the other getting a stray morsel, and when sated lay back contentedly by their master, who every now and then 'wiped his knife on their backs before cutting a fresh morsel for himself. The meal over they removed their moccasins and dropped down on the deerskins that were nearest them, appearing to fall asleep almost in the very act of lying down.
It was some time before I realized that I, too, was expected to follow the general example, but when looking behind me I saw a large reindeer skin that had obviously been placed there for my benefit I gathered up my knapsack and made for my improvised bed. Never shall I forget the horde of insects that found a home in my rug. The excruciating itching that they caused, the occasional visits of the very smelly Lapp dogs' who persisted in treating my prostrate body as a couch, and the cries of the baby whom neither the milk bottle nor a large reindeer bone that was thrust into its mouth was able to pacify, made that night a memorable -rather
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