SIMON HOGGART
For this month’s minibar we make a welcome return to The Vintry, the co-operative of wine lovers who discover their own favourites — chiefly in France, but increasingly elsewhere abroad — and sell them from their homes to friends and neighbours. There are a dozen members, mostly though not exclusively in southern England, and you’d be welcome to visit them at tastings time. But if you don’t live near any, it doesn’t matter because you could select these four of their finest, and be sent their short but extremely well-chosen list.
All these wines are French, all of high quality and quite delicious; and all are offered at a discount. I love Gewürztraminer, and this 2004 from Kaysersberg1 is amazing value at £8.75. It’s spicy and scented, full of tropical fruit flavours, and has that beguiling, slightly oily taste you get with the best Alsace wines. Perfect as an aperitif, or with dessert, since though it’s not sweet, it is just off-dry.
Jean Pabiot is one of the most distinguished of Loire winemakers, and his Pouilly Fumé Les Crillotis 20032 is in the first rank. Dry but not slaty, with a rounded, fruity aroma, it accompanied splendidly a dish of salmon with lightly curried lentils in coconut sauce. In other words it stood up well to subtle but distinctive flavours. The French have been badly scared by New Zealand Sauvignons, and this shows how effectively they are fighting back. Just £10.65.
My search for clarets which are both good and good value continues. It’s not always an easy quest. You can find something for about £6 and wonder why they bother to make it in the first place, or you can taste something fragrant, cedary and exciting, then see that they’re asking forty quid a bottle. This Château Fayau, Bordeaux Supérieur, 20023, boldly yet coyly labelled 177ème because it’s their 177th vintage, really is good and good value. It’s a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, giving it some of the softness of Pomerol and St Emilion, but with an earthy, robust flavour. At £8.50, I think it’s a snip.
Finally, the Domaine de Valmoissine 20024 is an extraordinary wine. It is all Pinot Noir, but in this case from Provence. It’s made by the people at Louis Latour who have a name to maintain and who do so in spades with this rich, luscious, perfumed wine, costing considerably less than anything of similar quality from Burgundy. Great value at £9.95.
Delivery, as ever, is free and there is a sample case including all four wines. Orders of three cases or more receive a further discount of £10. D
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