HOLIDAYS IN AUSTRIA ?
By A CORRESPONDENT
WAS planning to go to Austria this summer, but I suppose, after what's happened, I'd better change my plans ? It really isn't safe, is it ? "
That is a question I have been asked dozens of times since I got back from Austria a few weeks ago. The answer is that it is perfectly safe. The only point to be considered is whether you will still like Austria. In some ways it has changed unbelievably since it became part of Germany.
Upon the question of safety, it cannot be too strongly emphasised that not only is there absolutely no anti-British feeling in Austria, but the Austrians are so alarmed at the prospect of losing their carefully-built-up British tourist trade that every indulgence is allowed to visitors. For instance, in Vienna, where restaurants and hotels all have notices forbidding Jews to enter and a Jew would immedi- ately be thrown out if he dared to show his face, an Englishman can take his Jewish friends where he pleases. I happened, for instance, to be stopping at an hotel which had sentries posted outside because high Nazi officials were stopping there. It was a real Nazi Holy of Holies, yet there was never any trouble about entertaining my Jewish friends there.
There is only one safeguard a British visitor to Austria should observe. That is on no account ever to go anywhere without his passport. In addition a miniature Union Jack worn in the buttonhole will save arguments. Many foreigners in Vienna wear the flag of their country this way. In Austria today anyone not wearing a swastika badge is automatically classed as a Jew, however Aryan he may look. Therefore without a flag you may be asked whether you are Jewish before you are allowed to sit down in a café. Possibly by the time you arrive in Vienna the flag may be unnecessary. It all depends upon whether they are having a particular drive on the Jews at the moment. For instance, the first few days I was in Vienna, wearing a flag was quite unnecessary. Then for some days it became very useful not only to avoid being challenged on entering a restaurant but insulted generally in the streets. Then things got better. Afterwards there was another drive for some days, and so on. But in every case I heard of, once a passport was pro- duced there were profound apologies for the mistake. A flag is also scrupulously respected. Even if there are Nazi pickets outside a Jewish shop they never question the entry of a foreigner with a flag in his buttonhole. Incidentally, going into one of these picketed shops is a very queer sensa- tion. You may be the only customer in some huge depart- mental store. All the shop girls are in their places behind the counter. A Jewish employer is forced to continue paying his staff although he is prevented from doing any business.
In any case a flag is only necessary in a big town like Vienna. In smaller places where everyone knows everyone else and a foreigner is easily recognised, there is never any difficulty. Indeed, if your plans were to visit some little mountain resort, you will find things practically unchanged. At least, that was my experience in Styria, Carinthia and Tyrol. Apart from Nazi flags and portraits of Hitler everywhere and constant processions of Brown Shirts and Hider Jugend, life in the average Austrian village or pro- vincial town is just the same. In fact you may find the inhabitants more happy and cheerful than ever. With Germany's need for most of Austria's products, the average working-class man or woman is better off at the moment. Of course, if among your luggage you brought letters of introduction to people with big houses in the neighbourhood, then it is quite a different story. Even if they arc not already in trouble for supposed sympathy with the Monarch- ists, most members of the Austrian aristocracy are lying low for fear they may be suspected.
But while generally the little mountain or lake-side resorts are just as charming as they ever were, and the people quite as friendly, one other fact must be kept in mind. Everywhere in Austria will be flooded with German tourists this summer. Every German who can possibly raise the fare is coming to Austria for his holidays to " see what they have got." This is so much established that popular German holiday resorts like Garmisch in Bavaria are in the depth of despair. Rooms that were booked months ago have been cancelled because clients are going to Austria. It will be essential to book rooms well in advance in Austria this summer. For anyone who hates a crowd Bavaria or the Black Forest would be a far better choice than the Tyrol this summer.
That is the picture as far as the country is concerned but Vienna is quite another story. If you were thinking of going there this summer, my advice is, do not—at any rate for another couple of months. Later everything will doubtless improve but at present if you knew Vienna before, it will break your heart. If you are visiting it for the first time, you will get no impression of what it is really like. At the moment you might imagine half the inhabitants had just died of plague. Cafés, restaurants, theatres or shops are all empty. The jolly well-dressed crowds who sauntered along the streets have disappeared. Not only are the Jews afraid to go anywhere. Almost everyone of the more educated classes is nervous that they may be accused of sympathy with the Monarchists or the Schuschnigg Government and arrested. They want to keep out of the way of possible enemies who might try and denounce them. When they have to go anywhere they hurry as quickly as possible and wear their oldest clothes to avoid attracting attention. You scarcely ever see a smartly dressed woman any more. There is never a trace of the famous Viennese light-hearted gaiety.
And Salzburg ? Of course when I was there it was a long time before the Festival but nothing seemed to have changed very much. I imagine the Musical Festival will be much the same as usual, although, of course, certain well-known figures will be missing. Everything will, of course, be terribly crowded and tickets must be booked long before- hand. The Germans are a music-loving nation and Salzburg has the great advantage for them in being so near the old German frontier. However, the Salzburg hotels will certainly do everything in their power to provide rooms and opera-tickets for British visitors. They regard the coming German invasion as a one year's phenomenon and are terrified at the thought of losing their regular British and American clientele.
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