Travel
IRELAND
THE worst of visiting Ireland is that the longer one stays the further England recedes, and the less one feels inclined to return to it. Ireland either makes you captive within the first week, or it leaves you cold ; if it has the latter effect there is nothing that can be done about it ; but a country which has caused hard-faced American business men to gasp and grow dumb with sheer amazement has something which no ordinary traveller can hope to resist. The. one difficulty that confronts the visitor is not so much what to see as what not to see; but since few of us have the good fortune to possess unlimited leisure the best plan is to go first to Dublin, and then make a complete circuit of the country. If you have a car then take it with you, for though the railways provide an excellent service you will find constant temptation to explore byways and odd corners. Temptation will begin the moment you reach Dublin, but it must be firmly resisted. Dublin has plenty to show you, from Trinity College and its library, to Phoenix Park with its Zoological Gardens. Everyone you meet will tell you of %omethilag else you should see before you leave, and once you bCgin " seeing the sights " it is very difficult to stop : so turn resolutely southward to Wicklow, Wexford, and Waterford. At Waterford see the two friaries, Christ Church Cathedral, and Reginald's Tower, an ancient monument which has been both a mint and a fortress. Lismore Castle, standing upon a cliff above the Blackwater, is near enough to be visited, as is the Trappist Monastery at Mount Melleray, where the monks have attained fame for their skill in curing dipsomania. Waterford makes a delightful centre for excursions into the counties of Wexford, Kilkenny, and Carlow. Cork can be reached by way of Clonmel (which is the capital of Tipperary) and Cahir. Clonmel is a good centre from which to visit Holy Cross Abbey, the Caves at MitcheLstown, Cahir Castle, Crotty's Lake and the Comeragh Mountains. Kilkenny and Cashel are well worth visiting ; the Rock of Cashel has been described as one of the finest sights in Ireland.
When you reach Cork they will tell you that you must hear the bells of Shandon ; they will also tell you that you must kiss the Blarney Stone. The first will prove expensive, while the second involves some risk of breaking your neck; resist these temptations, for County Coik and its neighbour, County Kerry, have plenty of better attractions. You can stay either at Cork, Macroom, or Glengariff, while Killarney, of course, has a number of excellent hotels. Kerry and West Cork are distinctive, both in the nature of the people and in the type of country. You will want to linger there if only because of the beauty of Killarney, about which so much has already been written. That beauty, be it said, can scarcely be exaggerated, although it is best seen in the spring rather than during the tourist season. If you visit Dingle, you will doubtless be tempted to make an excursion to the Blasket Islands, beyond Slea Head. The Irish coastal islands are many, and all of them are fascinating. Happy months could be spent amongst them if time permitted. Much the most easily accessible is Achill, where donkeys may be seen with panniers of turf, and even the red petticoats of tradition.
Limerick should follow after Kerry. St. Mary's Cathedral, King John's Castle, and the Thoisel are worth visits, and one should certainly go to Castleconnell, where the Shannon forces a passage through jagged rocks at the Falls of Doonass. Nearby, at Askaeton, you will find a Desmond castle and friary; Lough Gur with its islands and ancient remains should also be visited. From Limerick the best route passes through Galway, a good centre for- the exploration of -Connemara ; then on by way of Ballinrobe and Westport to Mallaranny, from which you may visit Achill Island, or fish in Lough Conn, or climb Nephin or Croaghpatrick. You have now the choice of Sligo or Donegal, then on to Londonderry, where the city walls are still intact, into the beautiful County Antrim, famous for its Glens, its quaint villages, its Coastal Road and 'the Giant's Causeway. From Londonderry the coast can be followed by way of Portrush and the Giant's Causeway to Ballycastle, from which the interesting island of Rathlin may .be visited. Continuing southward along the Coastal Road one passes through _two picturesque villages, Cushendun and Cushendall, to Belfast. Belfast is a good centre for. Lough Neagh, which _lies to the westward, and Strangford Lough, a salt-water lough which might be described as a large estuary of the sea. In stormy weather Strangford Bar, at the entrance, can be a wonderful sight. The narrows open into the lough between Strangford and Portaferry, two picturesque villages, while the lough itself contains nearly four hundred islands, some of which are inhabited, while others are used for cattle grazing. Inland is Lough Erne, a celebrated beauty spot in County Fermanagh, another lough of many islands : it is said that Lough Erne has an island for every day of the year. There are excellent roads to both loughs, and postal and telegraph facilities are available within reasonable distance, while there is railway communication with Belfast and other centres.
For the fisherman Ireland has lakes large and small, and rivers set in surroundings which are one continuous delight. Apart from celebrated salmon fisheries such as the Foyle, Bann and Mourne, there is a great variety of game fish in the lakes; supplies of flies and tackle being available in every district. Corrib 'or Mask, the Blackwater, the streams of Donegal, or the Slaney offer excellent sport to the discriminating angler. He will, perhaps, if he wants larger fish, go to the Barrow, which will tempt him with trout up to 3 lb. and salmon up to 35 lb. The yachtsman who visits Belfast Lough on a fine day when racing is in full swing will find yachts of all classes flying the flags of a variety of clubs. The Royal Ulster Yacht Club, with headquarters at Bangor, have issued challenges for the America Cup. The golf enthusiast is particularly well served in Ireland, where the game is cheap, and there is but little of the congestion which so often spoils week-end golf in England. The choice of courses is almost unlimited, including the famous championship courses at Portrush and Portmarnock ; clubs will be found at almost any centre along the chosen route. If you cannot take your car to Ireland you should certainly take your camera ; but even with the best of cameras you, must not expect too much. Win cannot take' Ireland back with you. That is why you will begin to plan your next visit to Ireland before you have reached England again.
G. K._ -
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