SUMMER FOOD AND WINE Seafood
The oyster's his world
Jennifer Paterson
Afew weeks ago I received an alluring invitation to the opening of an oyster bar at the very head of Loch Fyne near Cairn- dow, Argyll. It sounded so far away and remote I might just as well have been invited to Ulan Bator, unaccustomed as I am to modern travel and things like aero- planes to Glasgow. I knew nothing about standby tickets but found out to my cost.
Instructed to find the managing director of the Ritz, Terry Holmes, at Heathrow airport, I was told by John Noble, our host, that he would have arranged transport from Glasgow to Ardkinglas, Cairndow, and all would be well. By the time for take-off I still hadn't found this Terry Holmes. After much prayer and invoca- tions to above, a charming stewardess found him on the plane with his wife and chef, also Charles, the head barman from the Stafford Hotel and his wife. They had all arrived in the very nick of time to board the plane and caused several heart attacks.
We set off from Glasgow airport in two cars, a wonderful drive down the side of Loch Lomond, arriving at John Noble's house in time for lunch. The approach to this most exciting house is through a spectacular arboretum already blazing with azaleas and rhododendrons of incredible hues. It is open to the public at no fee but with a 'charity box' on the gate. The house is situated right bang on the shores of this beautiful Loch Fyne, shimmering away as far as the eye can see. It was built by Edwardian Scotland's favourite architect, Robert Lorimer in 1906 for Sir Andrew Noble, whose wealth came from his in- volvement with Lord Armstrong's Tyne- side armaments empire. Inside, the rooms are spacious and light, all walls either panelled or plastered and every ceiling moulded in entrancing patterns, except for the one in the saloon which is now abhor- red by the family, being decorated with a very bad painting of Apollo, chariot and horse by Roger Fry. It is an undeniably bland intrusion into a richly decorated interior and one can sympathise with the family's conclusion that 'the best that could be said of it was that it filled the space.' We were welcomed by John Noble and his sisters, one of whom treks through the Himalayas for kicks, taken up to the splendid saloon and given quantities of champagne in front of a vast roaring fire; then a great lunch of cock-a-leekie — heavenly! Our numbers kept growing until there were about 18 people sleeping in the house that night. The Loch Fyne Oyster company was founded in 1978 by John Noble and Andrew Lane, a marine fish farmer. They found the conditions at the head of the Loch to be ideal, in fact large quantities of old oyster shells littering the shore indi- cated the previous existence of oyster beds. The water is so pure and fertile that the molluscs can be eaten straight from the beds without the usually necessary 'rinsing process', thus the flavour is kept intact. Soon after the beds were established they started a smokehouse for salmon, trout and other fish from the district, supplying many hotels and restaurants, and also a seafood shop for passing motorists, which proved very popular; so they decided there was a very good reason for providing a simple oyster bar where people could sit down to enjoy the local produce and gaze at the wonderful views.
The bar has been built from an old cow byre, totally plain with wooden benches and tables, clean as a whistle and a joy to behold. The menu includes all their own seafood products as well as the oysters which are the gigas variety (cupped oys- ters) and can be eaten all the year round at less than half the price of the native oyster. The langoustines or crayfish from lower down the loch are creel-caught rather than dredged, thus minimising any damage to them. They are plump and as delicious as any I have ever had. Their own smoke- house produces the smoked salmon, trout, mussels, eel and mackerel. There are also gravadlax and marinades of the local herring, crabs and lobster from time to tune. Fish pâté and soup are also available. Brown bread and butter, lemons and a light salad are the only accompaniments, followed by some Scottish farmhouse cheeses. Wouldn't it be fantastic to find such a place by chance down here on some wild road? You can drink a dry white burgundy shipped under their own label or a premier grand cru champagne from the single commune of Bouzy in half bottles, Guinness and beer.
We assembled for the opening at about 6 p.m. to find most of the locals already there and having a fine old time. Aunt Anastasia had been collected from her cottage round the corner. She is an amaz- ing tiny woman well into her seventies, and was dressed in a colourful Welsh tweed tunic and red dancing pumps for the barn dance planned for later in the evening; she out-danced everyone. She breeds enor- mous Scottish deer hounds, any one of Which could gulp her for breakfast. There are 16 of these great beasts rushing around like racehorses.
We feasted on the oysters and langous- tines, we drank the white wine or neat tots of whisky. Terry Holmes who uses all this produce for the Ritz declared the joint Open, John Noble thanked everyone who had worked on the project, Fitzroy Mac- lean had brought his gang over from Creggans Inn at Strachur, and his splendid manager gave an hilarious and stirring speech. A good time was had by all, finishing up with the rollicking barn dance, Aunt Anastasia's little red shoes prancing her along like a frisky gazelle. After all this we returned to the house for a magnificent supper and merriment till dawn. I sank blissfully into a glorious four-poster bed.
If you want any of the above products they can all be sent in special packs. Write to Loch Fyne Oysters Ltd, Clachan Farm, Cairndow, Argyll. There will also be a Loch Fyne Food Festival at the Stafford Hotel, St James's Place, London SWI from 12 September this year.
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