12 JUNE 1926, Page 19

Hawaiian Surf-Rider

GONE are the south-wind rains,

The Kona storms are gone.

The bracing Koolau wind's a-blowing,.

And First-break surf comes on. • _ Tall on the beach he stands. Scanning the undertow, _ To launch his board with the seaward rush

• Spring on its:back,.and go-.7 ,

With a long pull, timed

--To - the -booth Of-the • vasty 'drum, - Out through the foam Of the pony water To the deep where the chargers come.

The gathering camber looms, .

Plumed with the blowing spray.

Rising to curl at . his, heels, and break—

But, out of the break, away !-

He is up, aslant- on the wave,

Sped by a god, to be A mortal flashing along the • crest In advance of the • tumbling sea: Ride like your fathers rode !- Low the spindrift sings, And sounds in the cannonading surf The shout of the riding Kings..

DONALD Ci LIARS -