REPONSE DE CFtEVECCEUR Su,—To read Mr. Ray's very Gallic outburst
one might presume that to plead guilty of attempted poisoning would be the least I could or should do . . . what utter lack of British sang-froid!
If asking readers of the Spectator to use margarine is deemed an insult to their palate I consider it a greater insult to doubt their intelligence in not being able to substitute butter for margarine should they wish.
Margarine produces an excellent sauce poivrade and personally I see no need, in this instance, for using butter which is absolutely, indispensable for cooking in so many other ways.
Incidentally—sauce poivrade is NOT only used for 'dearest cuts' but also with any meat placed in marinade (see recipe No. 3). By 'any meat' I had especially in mind the cheaper cuts such as shoulder of beef and pork shin, etc., which if left long enough in marinade will be perfect for roasting, braising or grilling.
Helm! Mr. Ray's broken heart would be truly shattered if he could glimpse the increasing quantity of margarine which finds its way into French homes where not so very long ago only butter was con- sidered good enough for cooking. . . . —Yours faithfully,
Meifod, Montgomeryshire
ANNE-MARIE CIOVEC(EUR
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