Cod help us
Jennifer Paterson
Lady Maclean's Second Helpings Lady Maclean (Collins £12.95)
Every self-respecting hostess should have this book for Christmas. It is more of a coffee than a kitchen table book but full of exotic and interesting receipts none the less. It requires a good deal of wading through and sorting out, the sort of cook book where you suddenly find some- thing that intrigues you and with a wild cry you rush off to the very well stocked kitchen and produce scrummy old cod or Mousse de Karlsbad. On the other hand, if you are entertaining a large quantity of folk over the Christm. Deriod , you could make each person choose one of the receipts, prepare and cook it; then every- one can guess which embassy it comes from. Not only will it be a new party game but will lighten the load for the hostess. (They must leave a spotless kitchen in their wake as well). Prizes can then be awarded.
There are some fascinating grand re- ceipts. I quiver with delight at the thought of the Duchess of Beaufort boiling up her truffles to mix with the hard-boiled eggs, doubtless waving off the otter hounds at the same time, but James Bond Oefs (sic) are rather a let-down, being covered in tomato ketchup at the last moment. I like the sound of the great and good Derek Hill's cold grouse stuffed to bursting with good beef dripping, which you then re- move after cooking and cooling. It sounds amazing, but I bet it's delicious. Mrs Raymond Asquith was not above tarting up her strawberry compote with cochineal. I'm sure the present beauteous Countess would never stoop to such sly ways:
There is an excellent Game section, as you might imagine, wonderful heart- stopping puddings awash with cream and liqueurs and so on and on.
Jennifer of Harpers & Queen should really be reviewing this cooking diary, but it's fun — read it.
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