THIS is the second of our grand Christmas offers. It
comes from a long-standing friend of Spectator readers, Robin Yapp, who lives and works in an idyllic group of buildings in Mere. Wiltshire. Robin is a reformed dentist, who let his oenophilia take over his life. Thus he has moved from causing pain to the equally essential task of dulling it. His technique has always been to truffle out the small growers in the Loire and the Rhone, finding the unsung vineyards which might not be known outside their own communes, never mind in the wider world. But he deals in big, famous names too, and some of these are included.
These are all fine wines in their own way: subtle, supple, and with the backbone which even the best New World wines sometimes lack. They have what the French call goat du terroir, which can be a euphemism for 'tastes of pebbles' but here refers to an appealing and distinctive character. They arc all heavily discounted.
The sample case is designed to see you through Christmas dinner, with a few good bottles left over. You might start by serving the Yapp champagne, made by the celebrated Dumangin family. It's a powerful bubbly, packed with fruit and that lovely cheery, biscuity taste which marks a really good champagne. The grumpiest member of the family should be in festive mood after this. The £15.25 price includes a £1.75 discount.
With the smoked salmon or oysters. I would lick my lips at the Lirac La Fermande 1999. This, from an area rather overshadowed by Chateauneuf-du-Pape, is fresh, appley, crisp, mellow and just the thing with seafood. Robin has knocked £1 off each bottle to bring it down to £6.50.
With the turkey or goose. a red Chateauneuf-du-Pape would be perfect. This, from Domaine Chante Cigale, is a traditional version, dominated by Grenache noir, and with that heady perfumed aroma of the best Rhone wines. You need to let it breathe, though it seems a shame not to have the famous bottle with its embossed papal keys standing on your table. The price is down to £12.50.
I can't think of anything nicer with the Christmas pud than the Bellegarde Jurancon moelleux 1999. a luscious, honey-and-peaches dessert wine from Pau, a few miles north of the Spanish border. It's not quite as rich as a Sauternes, but it's smooth and unctuous and scrummy, and remarkable value since Robin has taken off £1.20 to bring it down to just nine quid.
So that's Christmas dinner. But you'll want some glugging wines too, and I heartily recommend the Saumur 2000. with its smart label showing General de Gaulle knocking back a glass. The region has been shipping wine to Britain for nearly 800 Back among the reds, the Domaine des Gavelles from the Bouches-du-RhOne'' is a nice, smooth, easy-drinking blend of Grenache with a spot of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in. It's fairly light, so you can give guests plenty and send them on their way with a carol on their lips rather than a thumping in their head. Excellent at £4.50, or nearly 13 per cent off.
Finally, I love the Saumur Champigny 2000 from the Domaine Filliatreau'"', a fine establishment with its ancient cellars carved out of tuffeau, the soft local rock. This fragrant and subtle wine, made from 100 per cent Cabernet Franc, is hugely fashionable among the Parisian smart set, unless they've moved on to English wine, or Alcopops, or whatever. It's lovely, and at £7 Robin is charging £1 less than the list price.
The sample case contains an appropriate selection of the wines, and comes in at £12.75 under the list price. As ever, delivery is free, and there is a further 5 per cent discount if you buy 5 cases or more.
Previous page
